Thought you'd like that one. The stash I actually had a friend help out on. I'm not a skilled carpenter, nor do I have the tools needed. That said, it is very doable for the Mini, just some fairly precise inletting and sanding to fit.
The addition of the spacer worked because it was a compact stock, extending LOP, and I didn't have to risk mangling the stock. For a standard Mini 14 stock (if it's wide enough), I would fill the "shoulder curve", making the butt flat and work from there. You can find used butt plates for pretty cheap, try picking one up and see if it'll fit.
Knots are quickly forgotten, for me anyway, if they are not in constant use. I can't tell you how many times I've learned the clove hitch before I remembered it. Still have trouble with it, if it can't be slipped over the end of the pole/log/whatever.
Tell me about it. A few years ago I could tie a rope horse halter in about 20 minutes using the prussic loop and a few other knots. Last week I tried to tie one and it took me over 30 minutes trying to tie just the prussic loop and had to look it up to see where I was going wrong. I finely got it tied 3 hours later after pulling it apart 3 times and starting over.
Prussic is one that I haven't forgotten. I work in tree care, climbing. The prussic keeps me alive and safe everyday. What an awesome knot. Lots of different applications too, like, a sling adjuster . Animatedknots.com is a cool site if you forget one.
Thought you'd like that one. The stash I actually had a friend help out on. I'm not a skilled carpenter, nor do I have the tools needed. That said, it is very doable for the Mini, just some fairly precise inletting and sanding to fit.
The addition of the spacer worked because it was a compact stock, extending LOP, and I didn't have to risk mangling the stock. For a standard Mini 14 stock (if it's wide enough), I would fill the "shoulder curve", making the butt flat and work from there. You can find used butt plates for pretty cheap, try picking one up and see if it'll fit.
sorry if you already answered this, but where did you get the buttstock stach end plate? butt plate ?
Prussic is one that I haven't forgotten. I work in tree care, climbing. The prussic keeps me alive and safe everyday. What an awesome knot. Lots of different applications too, like, a sling adjuster . Animatedknots.com is a cool site if you forget one.
I got my knots confused, it was the Fiador knot that I had a hard time with. That Animated knot link is pretty cool, I bookmarked it for future reference, thanks.
Nice 1022 you did a really nice job. The para cord sling is a good idea. I too have my 1022 in in a scout configuration. I have a Nc Star 4x EER Illuminated scope and a ClonePoint red dot for mine.
51
Animated Knots is a good sight i have the app on my iPhone.
Nice rig 51! How do you like the red dot? been thinking of a Primary Arms for mine. The pistol is a 36 cal Brescia replica. Thanks for the compliments!
Thank You, For the compliment. The cheap red dot works great but like most cheap red dot scopes it eats batteries pretty fast. But that is not a problem i buy them cheap on epay. I like the Illuminated scope better. I have never heard of that brand of cap gun. It looks like it is in very good condition. Do you shoot it much? I shoot 50-100 balls a week from my cap and ball revolvers.
51
Just acquired it actually. I thought it to be a bit dinged up, but I cleaned it up before the photo. Maybe Brescia is the Italian town it was made in, no manufacturer info on the assembled pistol. It was made in '67 according to the SN. I have shot it once, it is my first cap and ball firearm.
It spooked me a little because of some minor play between the barrel and cylinder. It was fine after putting my safety glasses on and some liquid courage . Don't shoot it often though, the 10/22 gets all the attention .
Hey Crowcifier, I have couple questions concerning your 10/22. I am planning to use yours as a model when building mine.
1. I noticed you mentioned that you “modified” the UTG rail in order to accommodate the rear sight aperture. Was this accomplished by simply cutting a portion of the rear picatinny rail off?
2. Does the front sight affix to your stock dove tail configuration? I had my barrel milled down to 16.25 inches therefore don’t have the dovetail anymore. I am currently trying to figure out how to get the sights you used to work on mine.
3. The “Accu-Strut barrel strut”…can you point me to where you purchased this and for how much. I found one online but they are pricey ($100)?
4. Big Question: how is the eye relief / visibility with your sight mounted so far up on the rail (which is an awesome, genuine look for the socom rifle)?
I plan on using a hogue overmold black rubber stock for mine. I researched it and understand I’ll most likely have to mill the front down a bit to make it work.
Now that is sharp! Nice work Crow. I'm especially interested in how you finished the front end where the gas block would be. Hard to tell in this photo. Care to share?
My project is a Scout version and slightly less tactical than the SOCOM look. Suppose I wanted to trim off those long side rails to preserve the wood "look" of the forend? Do they contribute to the structural integrity of that rail? I probably won't hang anything from them and just as soon cut them off.
Great looking project. Thinking that'll be my next one! Thanks.
Hey Crow, one more thing. Where does the back end of your Accu-Strut mount inside the "clamp" end of the UTG Quad Rail? Did you just drill a hole in the end of the stock and bed it in there? Great look.
Hey Crowcifier, I have couple questions concerning your 10/22. I am planning to use yours as a model when building mine.
1. I noticed you mentioned that you “modified” the UTG rail in order to accommodate the rear sight aperture. Was this accomplished by simply cutting a portion of the rear picatinny rail off? Yep, just chopped it off, filed it clean and painted it. The rail is plenty solid with just two rear screws.
2. Does the front sight affix to your stock dove tail configuration? I had my barrel milled down to 16.25 inches therefore don’t have the dovetail anymore. I am currently trying to figure out how to get the sights you used to work on mine. I bought the rifle used as a donor, and the barrel was threaded with the dovetail moved back. I would talk to a gunsmith about soldering one on.
3. The “Accu-Strut barrel strut”…can you point me to where you purchased this and for how much. I found one online but they are pricey ($100)? The accustrut I got as a blemish item for a bit cheaper, and I figured I can always put it on my mini 14. Impulse buy? Yes. But I think it makes the build.
4. Big Question: how is the eye relief / visibility with your sight mounted so far up on the rail (which is an awesome, genuine look for the socom rifle)? The scope is a Burris Scout, made to be mounted forward. It has an eye relief of something like 13" it works well for me. I started with a cheap leapers scope and upgraded thought the leapers worked great. look for IER or EER scopes (intermediate and extended eye relief) pistol scopes can suffice too.
I plan on using a hogue overmold black rubber stock for mine. I researched it and understand I’ll most likely have to mill the front down a bit to make it work.
Thanks for any input you can offer.
Originally Posted by headedtotexas
Now that is sharp! Nice work Crow. I'm especially interested in how you finished the front end where the gas block would be. Hard to tell in this photo. Care to share?
My project is a Scout version and slightly less tactical than the SOCOM look. Suppose I wanted to trim off those long side rails to preserve the wood "look" of the forend? Do they contribute to the structural integrity of that rail? I probably won't hang anything from them and just as soon cut them off.
Great looking project. Thinking that'll be my next one! Thanks.
Thanks, I sent you a PM on the other questions, but I'm not sure the rails would still stay stiff enough to be practical. If the purpose of the rail is solely for a scope, I would look into a cantilever setup or the like. I saw someone, I think on RFC (you're over there too right?), someone had a rail from the foremost scope mounts on the receiver to a dovetail support. It looked much lighter, as the UTG adds almost a pound I think. I don't mind the weight of mine, but lighter would be better.
Originally Posted by headedtotexas
Hey Crow, one more thing. Where does the back end of your Accu-Strut mount inside the "clamp" end of the UTG Quad Rail? Did you just drill a hole in the end of the stock and bed it in there? Great look.
You got it. Just drilled the hole, a little off center unfortunately, and plugged it in...
Thanks, I sent you a PM on the other questions, but I'm not sure the rails would still stay stiff enough to be practical. If the purpose of the rail is solely for a scope, I would look into a cantilever setup or the like. I saw someone, I think on RFC (you're over there too right?), someone had a rail from the foremost scope mounts on the receiver to a dovetail support. It looked much lighter, as the UTG adds almost a pound I think. I don't mind the weight of mine, but lighter would be better.
Welcome back Crow, and thanks for the details. I wasn't sure about the structural rigidity of the UTG rail without the side rails, but this item from UTG has buoyed my confidence.
"Free floating" and without being secured anywhere but the receiver taps, it may flap like a dog's tongue in the wind, but it suggests that an otherwise competent company like UTG thinks it's okay. I'm hoping that with the front secured by the clamp at the front of the stock and the back secured at the receiver, it will be dead enough to support a red dot if I need it. I figure on trying it regardless.
The RFC thread you cited above where someone has a rail that mounts between the receiver and the dovetail is interesting, but I think it needs to extend clear up to the front of the stock to produce the M14 Scout look. More as I know it. Thanks again.
...."Free floating" and without being secured anywhere but the receiver taps, it may flap like a dog's tongue in the wind, but it suggests that an otherwise competent company like UTG thinks it's okay....
Wow, really? That thing just lays over the barrel just screwed into the receiver? I can see that catching it on something and striping the receiver threads in a hurry, with all the leverage behind it....
Yeah, I would think it would bounce like a diving board. Of course the Quad Rail (also from UTG) fixes that springboard effect by mounting the front of the rail to the "barrel band" clamp at the front of the stock forend. My plan is to mill off those side rails so the back 80% or so of the UTG Quad Rail looks like the UTG diving board rail above, but leave the rest of the Quad Rail intact. Confidence is high, but the proof is in the pudding.
Other than one of those Sharpie bluing pens, what's the best way to "re-blue" the aluminum where bare metal is exposed by cutting? You mentioned painting the cut edge where you trimmed off the back two holes to make room for the rear Tech Sight. What kind of paint did you use? How is it holding up?
Crow, you are single-handedly responsible for me spending over $400 at brownells and optics planet on my copy-cat 10/22. Thanks for all your help, it will be put to good use!
My project build involves most of your ideas with the exception of using a Hogue overmold stock. Additionally, I found a guy who will thread my barrel, solder on a dovetail and fill in the rear dovetail. I will make sure to add pics and updates as I get parts in. My 10/22 is stainless and I plan on duracoating it flat black. I've got several projects under the belt using duracoat with good results. after chopping the rear picatinny rail off of the UTG rail, I'm going to duracoat that as well.
Other than one of those Sharpie bluing pens, what's the best way to "re-blue" the aluminum where bare metal is exposed by cutting? You mentioned painting the cut edge where you trimmed off the back two holes to make room for the rear Tech Sight. What kind of paint did you use? How is it holding up?
I used just flat black spray paint and it still looks like it came like that....not a high wear spot really.
Originally Posted by mikeykey
Crow, you are single-handedly responsible for me spending over $400 at brownells and optics planet on my copy-cat 10/22. Thanks for all your help, it will be put to good use!
My project build involves most of your ideas with the exception of using a Hogue overmold stock. Additionally, I found a guy who will thread my barrel, solder on a dovetail and fill in the rear dovetail. I will make sure to add pics and updates as I get parts in. My 10/22 is stainless and I plan on duracoating it flat black. I've got several projects under the belt using duracoat with good results. after chopping the rear picatinny rail off of the UTG rail, I'm going to duracoat that as well.
Thanks again man, stay tuned!
Glad I could help drain your wallet! My final touch is to duracoat mine parker. Gotta get a buddy to bead blast the parts, and lend me his air gun. I've never had experience duracoating, this will be my first....any tips?
Crow, I absolutely have some tips for you. The two major issues with Duracoat are mixing it and then applying it (kind of obvious right?).
First the mixing, I researched ideas on how to mix this and several sources told me to just use a syringe and draw it out of the bottle. The only bad part about using a syringe was that you only got one use out of them by contamination of the paint. This led me to creating the process I do now. I go to the grocery store and buy those cheap small clear plastic cups (they are about half the size of the red Dixie cups). I take one of those cups and fill it up with water. I then set out two more cups. One of those will be for the paint and the other for the hardener. I take my syringe and draw several cc’s of water out of the cup filled with water. I then squirt it into the paint cup. I fill the cups up with the appropriate amounts of water (12:1 mix ratio) and then mark their location with a black sharpie pin on the outside of the cup. I then dump the water and dry the cups out.
What this long winded process does is allow you to simply pour the paint and hardener to the line you previously marked with water. Then you can pour each into the paint’s bowl and mix with a stir stick (which I get free from the local coffee house). It makes the pouring/mixing process so much easier because you are dealing with water and not the paint up until you are all set.
Second part is spraying. I researched this and also found that it is recommended to use a air brush gun. I call b.s. on that!!!! I got one from harbor freight and was never able to get the adjustment knobs set correctly and the gun’s bowl would always run dry too quickly. I found a better gun at harbor freight that has since painted around 15-20 guns now without any issues. The best part is its only $12! (link to gun: Adjustable Detail Spray Gun). It has a bigger bowl which allows you to paint much bigger items all at once without having to remix the paint.
If any of this doesn’t make sense, please feel free to ask. I might even snap some pictures when I start my build and do a write up.
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