Perfect Union banner
73K views 79 replies 26 participants last post by  Crowcifier666 
#1 · (Edited)
-10/22 Compact
-16.25" factory taper barrel threaded
-Factory birch stock modified for butt plate and strut, "torch camo'd" and refinished with Tung oil
-M14 trapdoor butt plate (with teak spacer and stash)
-Auto bolt release mod
-Tech Sights TS200
-UAG 2.5x20 LER scope w/ supplied rings
-Tactical Innovations charging handle
-UTG quad rail, modified to fit tech sights and barrel strut
-Accu-Strut barrel strut, faux gas tube
-Home made paracord adjustable sling









 
See less See more
5
#28 ·
Thought you'd like that one. The stash I actually had a friend help out on. I'm not a skilled carpenter, nor do I have the tools needed. That said, it is very doable for the Mini, just some fairly precise inletting and sanding to fit.

The addition of the spacer worked because it was a compact stock, extending LOP, and I didn't have to risk mangling the stock. For a standard Mini 14 stock (if it's wide enough), I would fill the "shoulder curve", making the butt flat and work from there. You can find used butt plates for pretty cheap, try picking one up and see if it'll fit.
 
#32 ·
Thought you'd like that one. The stash I actually had a friend help out on. I'm not a skilled carpenter, nor do I have the tools needed. That said, it is very doable for the Mini, just some fairly precise inletting and sanding to fit.

The addition of the spacer worked because it was a compact stock, extending LOP, and I didn't have to risk mangling the stock. For a standard Mini 14 stock (if it's wide enough), I would fill the "shoulder curve", making the butt flat and work from there. You can find used butt plates for pretty cheap, try picking one up and see if it'll fit.
sorry if you already answered this, but where did you get the buttstock stach end plate? butt plate ?
 
#34 ·
Nice 1022 you did a really nice job. The para cord sling is a good idea. I too have my 1022 in in a scout configuration. I have a Nc Star 4x EER Illuminated scope and a ClonePoint red dot for mine.
51

Animated Knots is a good sight i have the app on my iPhone.



 
#37 ·
Thank You, For the compliment. The cheap red dot works great but like most cheap red dot scopes it eats batteries pretty fast. But that is not a problem i buy them cheap on epay. I like the Illuminated scope better. I have never heard of that brand of cap gun. It looks like it is in very good condition. Do you shoot it much? I shoot 50-100 balls a week from my cap and ball revolvers.
51
 
#38 ·
Just acquired it actually. I thought it to be a bit dinged up, but I cleaned it up before the photo. Maybe Brescia is the Italian town it was made in, no manufacturer info on the assembled pistol. It was made in '67 according to the SN. I have shot it once, it is my first cap and ball firearm.

It spooked me a little because of some minor play between the barrel and cylinder. It was fine after putting my safety glasses on and some liquid courage ;). Don't shoot it often though, the 10/22 gets all the attention :D.
 
#40 ·
Hey Crowcifier, I have couple questions concerning your 10/22. I am planning to use yours as a model when building mine.

1. I noticed you mentioned that you “modified” the UTG rail in order to accommodate the rear sight aperture. Was this accomplished by simply cutting a portion of the rear picatinny rail off?

2. Does the front sight affix to your stock dove tail configuration? I had my barrel milled down to 16.25 inches therefore don’t have the dovetail anymore. I am currently trying to figure out how to get the sights you used to work on mine.

3. The “Accu-Strut barrel strut”…can you point me to where you purchased this and for how much. I found one online but they are pricey ($100)?

4. Big Question: how is the eye relief / visibility with your sight mounted so far up on the rail (which is an awesome, genuine look for the socom rifle)?

I plan on using a hogue overmold black rubber stock for mine. I researched it and understand I’ll most likely have to mill the front down a bit to make it work.

Thanks for any input you can offer.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Sorry Gents, been away from the site a bit....

Hey Crowcifier, I have couple questions concerning your 10/22. I am planning to use yours as a model when building mine.

1. I noticed you mentioned that you "modified" the UTG rail in order to accommodate the rear sight aperture. Was this accomplished by simply cutting a portion of the rear picatinny rail off?
Yep, just chopped it off, filed it clean and painted it. The rail is plenty solid with just two rear screws.

2. Does the front sight affix to your stock dove tail configuration? I had my barrel milled down to 16.25 inches therefore don't have the dovetail anymore. I am currently trying to figure out how to get the sights you used to work on mine.
I bought the rifle used as a donor, and the barrel was threaded with the dovetail moved back. I would talk to a gunsmith about soldering one on.

3. The "Accu-Strut barrel strut"…can you point me to where you purchased this and for how much. I found one online but they are pricey ($100)?
The accustrut I got as a blemish item for a bit cheaper, and I figured I can always put it on my mini 14. Impulse buy? Yes. But I think it makes the build.

4. Big Question: how is the eye relief / visibility with your sight mounted so far up on the rail (which is an awesome, genuine look for the socom rifle)?
The scope is a Burris Scout, made to be mounted forward. It has an eye relief of something like 13" it works well for me. I started with a cheap leapers scope and upgraded thought the leapers worked great. look for IER or EER scopes (intermediate and extended eye relief) pistol scopes can suffice too.

I plan on using a hogue overmold black rubber stock for mine. I researched it and understand I'll most likely have to mill the front down a bit to make it work.

Thanks for any input you can offer.
Now that is sharp! Nice work Crow. I'm especially interested in how you finished the front end where the gas block would be. Hard to tell in this photo. Care to share?

My project is a Scout version and slightly less tactical than the SOCOM look. Suppose I wanted to trim off those long side rails to preserve the wood "look" of the forend? Do they contribute to the structural integrity of that rail? I probably won't hang anything from them and just as soon cut them off.

Great looking project. Thinking that'll be my next one! Thanks.
Thanks, I sent you a PM on the other questions, but I'm not sure the rails would still stay stiff enough to be practical. If the purpose of the rail is solely for a scope, I would look into a cantilever setup or the like. I saw someone, I think on RFC (you're over there too right?), someone had a rail from the foremost scope mounts on the receiver to a dovetail support. It looked much lighter, as the UTG adds almost a pound I think. I don't mind the weight of mine, but lighter would be better.

Hey Crow, one more thing. Where does the back end of your Accu-Strut mount inside the "clamp" end of the UTG Quad Rail? Did you just drill a hole in the end of the stock and bed it in there? Great look.
You got it. Just drilled the hole, a little off center unfortunately, and plugged it in...:D
 
#41 · (Edited)
Now that is sharp! Nice work Crow. I'm especially interested in how you finished the front end where the gas block would be. Hard to tell in this photo. Care to share?

My project is a Scout version and slightly less tactical than the SOCOM look. Suppose I wanted to trim off those long side rails to preserve the wood "look" of the forend? Do they contribute to the structural integrity of that rail? I probably won't hang anything from them and just as soon cut them off.

Great looking project. Thinking that'll be my next one! Thanks.
 
#47 ·
Yeah, I would think it would bounce like a diving board. Of course the Quad Rail (also from UTG) fixes that springboard effect by mounting the front of the rail to the "barrel band" clamp at the front of the stock forend. My plan is to mill off those side rails so the back 80% or so of the UTG Quad Rail looks like the UTG diving board rail above, but leave the rest of the Quad Rail intact. Confidence is high, but the proof is in the pudding.

Other than one of those Sharpie bluing pens, what's the best way to "re-blue" the aluminum where bare metal is exposed by cutting? You mentioned painting the cut edge where you trimmed off the back two holes to make room for the rear Tech Sight. What kind of paint did you use? How is it holding up?
 
#49 ·
....

Other than one of those Sharpie bluing pens, what's the best way to "re-blue" the aluminum where bare metal is exposed by cutting? You mentioned painting the cut edge where you trimmed off the back two holes to make room for the rear Tech Sight. What kind of paint did you use? How is it holding up?
I used just flat black spray paint and it still looks like it came like that....not a high wear spot really.

Crow, you are single-handedly responsible for me spending over $400 at brownells and optics planet on my copy-cat 10/22. Thanks for all your help, it will be put to good use!

My project build involves most of your ideas with the exception of using a Hogue overmold stock. Additionally, I found a guy who will thread my barrel, solder on a dovetail and fill in the rear dovetail. I will make sure to add pics and updates as I get parts in. My 10/22 is stainless and I plan on duracoating it flat black. I've got several projects under the belt using duracoat with good results. after chopping the rear picatinny rail off of the UTG rail, I'm going to duracoat that as well.

Thanks again man, stay tuned!
Glad I could help drain your wallet! My final touch is to duracoat mine parker. Gotta get a buddy to bead blast the parts, and lend me his air gun. I've never had experience duracoating, this will be my first....any tips?
 
#48 ·
Crow, you are single-handedly responsible for me spending over $400 at brownells and optics planet on my copy-cat 10/22. Thanks for all your help, it will be put to good use!

My project build involves most of your ideas with the exception of using a Hogue overmold stock. Additionally, I found a guy who will thread my barrel, solder on a dovetail and fill in the rear dovetail. I will make sure to add pics and updates as I get parts in. My 10/22 is stainless and I plan on duracoating it flat black. I've got several projects under the belt using duracoat with good results. after chopping the rear picatinny rail off of the UTG rail, I'm going to duracoat that as well.

Thanks again man, stay tuned!
 
#50 ·
Crow, I absolutely have some tips for you. The two major issues with Duracoat are mixing it and then applying it (kind of obvious right?).

First the mixing, I researched ideas on how to mix this and several sources told me to just use a syringe and draw it out of the bottle. The only bad part about using a syringe was that you only got one use out of them by contamination of the paint. This led me to creating the process I do now. I go to the grocery store and buy those cheap small clear plastic cups (they are about half the size of the red Dixie cups). I take one of those cups and fill it up with water. I then set out two more cups. One of those will be for the paint and the other for the hardener. I take my syringe and draw several cc's of water out of the cup filled with water. I then squirt it into the paint cup. I fill the cups up with the appropriate amounts of water (12:1 mix ratio) and then mark their location with a black sharpie pin on the outside of the cup. I then dump the water and dry the cups out.

What this long winded process does is allow you to simply pour the paint and hardener to the line you previously marked with water. Then you can pour each into the paint's bowl and mix with a stir stick (which I get free from the local coffee house). It makes the pouring/mixing process so much easier because you are dealing with water and not the paint up until you are all set.

Second part is spraying. I researched this and also found that it is recommended to use a air brush gun. I call b.s. on that!!!! I got one from harbor freight and was never able to get the adjustment knobs set correctly and the gun's bowl would always run dry too quickly. I found a better gun at harbor freight that has since painted around 15-20 guns now without any issues. The best part is its only $12! (link to gun: Adjustable Detail Spray Gun). It has a bigger bowl which allows you to paint much bigger items all at once without having to remix the paint.

If any of this doesn't make sense, please feel free to ask. I might even snap some pictures when I start my build and do a write up.

Mike
 
#52 ·
The Accu-Strut is cool, but it occurred to me that the M14 (or M1A) gas cylinder would work too. The barrel diameter at the two points where the M14 gas cylinder fits over the M14 barrel is virtually identical to where it would fit on the 10/22 barrel. The picture below shows the gas cylinder on my M1A Scout. I think it could easily be adapted to the 10/22 Scout project.

 
#53 · (Edited)
HTT, I think earlier in this thread someone used and airsoft gas tube from an M1A....I'm almost positive it would be cheaper than the accustrut. Fitting it might be trickier, but who knows...

ETA: It was actually in my build thread on RFC here. See posts #17, #19, and #21.

Just thought an airsoft part might save you some dough. Or save you taking apart your M1A....:D
 
#54 ·
I had seen the airsoft version and it is indeed a lot cheaper, but that does sound like an involved installation. Too involved. I put the calipers on the wide spot on my M1A barrel over which the gas cylinder fits and it is indeed a bit bigger than the dovetail piece on the muzzle end of the 10/22 barrel. Much like you found Crow, that rules it out. The Accu-Strut is good enough to not bet $30 (the cost of the airsoft version) that I can find a way to make it fit.

Unless that dovetail piece comes off. What holds that onto the 10/22 barrel?
 
#55 ·
If I'm reading you correct, the Accu-Strut is held on by the clamp on the fore end of the tube (the rear end rests in a hole drilled in the nose of the stock under the quad rail "barrel band"). It is pretty much a figure 8 clamp with two allen bolts in the middle. They come right out, and can be assembled anywhere on the barrel and tube, so there's no need to slip it over the front sight dovetail.
 
#56 ·
Actually I was looking at the original Ruger dovetail "band" into which both the original front sight and the front Tech Sight fit. If that "band" comes off, then the airsoft gas cylinder would easily slide over the muzzle and back into position fixed by the point where it attaches to the front of the stock.
 
#58 ·
Okay, I got the UTG Quad Rail back from my gunsmith and it's exactly what I was after. The walnut stock is much more visible without those full length side rails. In time I'm going to strip the Ruger varnish off and refinish the stock with boiled linseed oil to more closely match the stock on my SA Scout. The forend of the 1965 10/22 stock took a lot of Dremel work to get the lower half of the Quad Rail to mate up evenly with the top half, but doing so really locked it in solidly. I had thought about countersinking a screw or maybe a sling swivel stud in the rear overhang of the bottom rail to secure it to the stock at another point, but now I don't think that will make any difference.





So here's the question of the evening. The Quad Rail has a cutout for the original rear sight on the barrel. Too bad they don't offer a version without that cutout. The original 18.5" barrel is getting replaced by a 16" Compact barrel. If it's the one with the rear sight, I'm thinking I should drift the rear sight out of the dovetail. What would be cool to put in that dovetail in place of the rear sight?

 
#59 ·
I think Brownell's has dovetail fillers. Mine's wide open and doesn't bother me. They also make lasers that fit in there too; too much "tac" for me.

Wasn't sure how it'd look, but, I really like the quad rail w/o the side rails. Might have to get the dremel out for mine. It could shed some weight for sure. Nice work.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top