When putting a scope mount rail on a ruger 10-22 receiver, Ruger has what is known as the Ruger Bump on the top of the receivers.
It's from the casting process.
Run a quaity streight edge along the top of the receiver, moving it in a streight line from side to side on the whole area that the mount will be.
If you see any gap, take material off the bottom of the mount where the bump is, be sure to remove enough material, don't skimp.
Many times the top of the receiver is not perfectly flat. When you tighten the rail, it bends the rail which causes problems with the scope when you mount it.
In really bad cases, it can ruin your scope by putting the bend in the scope when you tighten it down.
Many scope problems, especially the repeated one's that drive you nuts are because of the Bump.
I also like to use the 5 minute JB Weld under the mount.
Put a thin but even coat of well mixed JB on the bottom of the mount.
When you screw the mount down, screw it down firmly, but just slightly less than spec, within 5 inch pounds of the amount of inch pounds called for.
The excess JB will squeze out from under the mount when it is tightened, don't worry about this, it's not a problem.
Scrape off the excess that squezed out with a sharpened piece of popcycle stick.
What the stick won't get, alcohol on a rag will remove. Just do it before it dries.
This will give you a rock solid mount.
If you don't want the mount to stick to the receiver, rub two coats of paste floor wax on top of the receiver in light coats and let dry between coats then put he JB on the mount and screw down the mount.
The mount will come off and the mount will perfectly fit the top of the receiver.
Even if it is glued to the top of the receiver, you can stilll get the mount off with a brass punch and a hammer. A few good wacks will knock it off.
Go easy on the amount of JB around the screw holes.
Put the wax on the screw threads and in the threads of the screw holes.
After 5 minutes, loosen each scew just to make sure the screw is not glued with the JB Weld. It dries firm but still soft in 5 minutes.
You will be able to move the screws. Do one at a time and then put it back in to proper torque.
Wait several hours, then remove the screws one at a time. Clean the screw and screw hole with spray carb cleaner to get all of the wax and oil off the threads on the screw and the holes in the rifle.
Be careful, putting the tube from the spray cleaner in the hole and spraying, it will cause it to shoot back out. Put a rag around the hole and spray tube and wear safety glasses when spraying the carb or brake cleaner, it really hurts if it gets in your eyes.
The cleaner will remove all oil. Oil any part of metal on the weapon that gets the spray cleaner on it so that it will not rust. The cleaner will not hurt the bluing, But will remove all of the oil.
Take the stock off the gun before cleaning the holes with carb or brake cleaner, it can damage the finish.
A Q tip can be used to dry and insure all the wax and oil are out of the screw hole.
When the screw holes in the gun are cleaned, the gun is oiled, put the receiver back in the stock and tighten it down.
Align and make sure the scope is level, then tighten each screw to spec.
Then remove one screw at a time and put a small bit of Blue or purple Lock-Tite on each screw and tighten it to spec one by one once the hole and screw are totally dry.
This way you have a rock solid mount that will never move on you causing problems. In most cases, even if a screw or screws come a little loose, the mount won't move.
If you properly put the Loc-Tite on the screws and torqued each to spec, they should never come loose unless you remove them.
The purple thread locker is not as strong as the blue.
I like the blue, but some people prefer the purple. If the mount is going to be removed a bunch of times, the purple thread locker may be the best to use.
Clean all the screw and screw holes on the scope holes with a Q tip soaked in alcohol, let dry and use a little Lock-Tite on the screws, that way the scope screws will not come loose from the recoil.
I take a Dremel tool with a carbide bit and remove a little material from the entire bottom of the scope mount except around the edges of the mount and leave a little material around the screw holes untouched.
That way I know that any place the top of the receiver is not perfect, it will not effect the streightness of the mount. The JB weld will fill the areas where the material was removed.
I think this is especially important on the new receivers with the wrinkle spray paint on them.
I've done this process for years and it works 100%.
All it takes is a litle time and material. It's the little things and small details like this that make your weapon as perfect as it can be and keeps you from having trouble later.
Best Regards, John K
It's from the casting process.
Run a quaity streight edge along the top of the receiver, moving it in a streight line from side to side on the whole area that the mount will be.
If you see any gap, take material off the bottom of the mount where the bump is, be sure to remove enough material, don't skimp.
Many times the top of the receiver is not perfectly flat. When you tighten the rail, it bends the rail which causes problems with the scope when you mount it.
In really bad cases, it can ruin your scope by putting the bend in the scope when you tighten it down.
Many scope problems, especially the repeated one's that drive you nuts are because of the Bump.
I also like to use the 5 minute JB Weld under the mount.
Put a thin but even coat of well mixed JB on the bottom of the mount.
When you screw the mount down, screw it down firmly, but just slightly less than spec, within 5 inch pounds of the amount of inch pounds called for.
The excess JB will squeze out from under the mount when it is tightened, don't worry about this, it's not a problem.
Scrape off the excess that squezed out with a sharpened piece of popcycle stick.
What the stick won't get, alcohol on a rag will remove. Just do it before it dries.
This will give you a rock solid mount.
If you don't want the mount to stick to the receiver, rub two coats of paste floor wax on top of the receiver in light coats and let dry between coats then put he JB on the mount and screw down the mount.
The mount will come off and the mount will perfectly fit the top of the receiver.
Even if it is glued to the top of the receiver, you can stilll get the mount off with a brass punch and a hammer. A few good wacks will knock it off.
Go easy on the amount of JB around the screw holes.
Put the wax on the screw threads and in the threads of the screw holes.
After 5 minutes, loosen each scew just to make sure the screw is not glued with the JB Weld. It dries firm but still soft in 5 minutes.
You will be able to move the screws. Do one at a time and then put it back in to proper torque.
Wait several hours, then remove the screws one at a time. Clean the screw and screw hole with spray carb cleaner to get all of the wax and oil off the threads on the screw and the holes in the rifle.
Be careful, putting the tube from the spray cleaner in the hole and spraying, it will cause it to shoot back out. Put a rag around the hole and spray tube and wear safety glasses when spraying the carb or brake cleaner, it really hurts if it gets in your eyes.
The cleaner will remove all oil. Oil any part of metal on the weapon that gets the spray cleaner on it so that it will not rust. The cleaner will not hurt the bluing, But will remove all of the oil.
Take the stock off the gun before cleaning the holes with carb or brake cleaner, it can damage the finish.
A Q tip can be used to dry and insure all the wax and oil are out of the screw hole.
When the screw holes in the gun are cleaned, the gun is oiled, put the receiver back in the stock and tighten it down.
Align and make sure the scope is level, then tighten each screw to spec.
Then remove one screw at a time and put a small bit of Blue or purple Lock-Tite on each screw and tighten it to spec one by one once the hole and screw are totally dry.
This way you have a rock solid mount that will never move on you causing problems. In most cases, even if a screw or screws come a little loose, the mount won't move.
If you properly put the Loc-Tite on the screws and torqued each to spec, they should never come loose unless you remove them.
The purple thread locker is not as strong as the blue.
I like the blue, but some people prefer the purple. If the mount is going to be removed a bunch of times, the purple thread locker may be the best to use.
Clean all the screw and screw holes on the scope holes with a Q tip soaked in alcohol, let dry and use a little Lock-Tite on the screws, that way the scope screws will not come loose from the recoil.
I take a Dremel tool with a carbide bit and remove a little material from the entire bottom of the scope mount except around the edges of the mount and leave a little material around the screw holes untouched.
That way I know that any place the top of the receiver is not perfect, it will not effect the streightness of the mount. The JB weld will fill the areas where the material was removed.
I think this is especially important on the new receivers with the wrinkle spray paint on them.
I've done this process for years and it works 100%.
All it takes is a litle time and material. It's the little things and small details like this that make your weapon as perfect as it can be and keeps you from having trouble later.
Best Regards, John K