I recently picked up a Butler Creek barrel/stock combo. The barrel fits fine but when I went to place the receiver into the new stock it was incredibly tight. So tight the bolt wont move.
I started slowly sanding out the stock. I just want to be sure I wont screw anything up by sanding the stock to get a fit.
I'm having a very difficult time invisioning a n open hole in a plastic stock actually crushing a receiver to the point of hanging up the bolt. In fact, if the receiver is munched enough to pinch down on the bolt, I'd have to guess the receiver is done. Pictures?
You wouldnt notice anything from the pics. There isnt visible bending or crunching.
When the receiver and barrel are out of the new stock the bolt finctions fine. When the receiver and original barrel are in the original stock the bolt finctions fine. When I place (more accurately press due to tightness) the receiver with new barrel into new stock I can pull the bolt back with some difficulty and it just hangs there until I push it forward. There's no sign of scratching or grinding on the inside of the receiver so the compression cant be that great. Also, is seems over the past couple of days as I have sanded out tiny bits and worked the receiver in and out over and over there seems to have been a lessening of the pressure. I think if I keep sanding little by little I should be alright.
I have looked over the receiver with some scrutiny and havent noticed any deformities or damage.
All you would see in the pictures is a gun sans stock operating well and then a gun with stock and a stuck open bolt.
I too don't buy a plastic stock pinching a receiver enough to restrict the bolt. Maybe being to deep and sticking up and interfering with the bolt handle, but squeezing the receiver, nope.
Let's figure this out then.
I just bought a Butler Creek folding stock that I'll keep my factory Ruger Stainless guts in. Oddly enough, after installing the new stock, I all but had to surgically remove the factory Ruger magazine because the new stock was pinching down on it really hard. If there is enough flex in the middle sections of the receiver I have an idea.
I used a dremel tool to shave out some meat from the Butler Creek stock so I could regain factory clearances for the factory magazine....but I was making a big mistake....but luckily I caught it in time. When I gutted the stock and started shaving, I was shaving the entire inside diameter of the magazine opening in the stock so the stock, being kinda stretchy, just kept clampng further down on the magazine. Then it struck me. Do not shave the stock where it comes in contact with the metal that houses the magazine holding pins (for lack of knowing the proper names) but rather only shave the stock in the vacinity (length) of the magazine side walls and let the plastic at the clip ends remain spread apart by those pin ends' metal. Now my magazines drop right out on command.
Maybe you are shaving the stock the entire length of the receiver? If so, try only shaving along the edge where it might be possible the thinner wall of the receicer, at the bolt opening, might have some flex to it. Does any of this make any sense? Let us know how it turns out.
I just looked at my receiver. There is too much metal and therefore to much tensil strength in the receiver to alow plastic stock parts to clapse the receiver. Even if it could, there is to much play between the bolt a receiver interior to colapse that much. Try backing off the take down screww at considerable length, pulling the barrel up then backing down on the take down screw to a point that you only have about 10 foot pounds of torgue on the take down screw. In this I am wondering if there is something in the new stock rubbing the belly of the bolts. Lastly, is the bolt rubbing on the top edge opening of the new stock....which should also be releived by backing off on the takedown screw.
Anyway, I've owned a 10/22 for about 6 weeks now. I'll shut up now.
OK, nothing could rub the belly of the bolt......unless ya dropped one of the pins when placing the action/receiver into the new stock. Do you have 2 trigger housing pins and a bolt stop pin in place? I've been working on machines for 30 years. I ain't been whooped yet.
I've had a little time to spend with it today and let me say that you're all right and it's defintely not the stock pressing in on the receiver. I seriously underestimated the strenght of the receiver.
I can recreate the sticking bolt outside of the stock by griping the receiver with the scope mount in my palm and my fingers outside of the trigger guard. I hold it like that and work the bolt as I squeeze. With just a little squeezing I can get the bolt to stick.
That is what's happening when I put it in the stock. I put it in the stock receiver first and lever it in by the barrel. The closer the barrel is to the stock and the firther in the front end of the receiver gets the pressure increases and that seems to be what's sticking my bolt.
Clean it. If nothing else spray WD-40 into the reciever with it out of the stock. Spray it alot until dirty nasty stuff stops coming out. Be better to desassemble it and clean it properly but I did the WD thing at a match once and was able to finish the shoot.
OK. I'm with the "old man" but lets try something.
Lowe's has an electrical grade contact cleaner called CRC Contact Cleaner 2000. This is NOT an oil based cleaner and WILL strip everything from your works less the paint. Pull the receiver out and drop the trigger group. Pull the bolt, pin and springs out of the receiver. 20 videos on u-tube on how to do this simple operation.
Hose down bolt, pin, springs and receiver housing BUT do not stay in one place very long as the contact cleaner is a refrigerant of sorts and you don't want to contract metal in one place for to long without cooling down the rest of the receiver equaly. Use just enough to strip the receiver peices. Don't freeze the hardware. Inspect the bolt and receiver housing for machining burs and dingleberries or any other imperfections. Use as light a grit sand paper or file as will do the job to take the imperfections down. Only take down as much as is required to make uniform the bolt and receiver travel. Use a good gun oil and slick everything up making sure you slick up the pin before putting the springs back on it.
Now if this is a brand new gun, and I highly expect it is, use the contact cleaner in the trigger group to strip it as well. ***Remember*** Don't stay in one place for very long. Work the trigger group thoroughly as you spray and let the fluid run out of the path of least resistance readily before it evaporates. If your gun was like mine, your brand new gun shipped with metal shavings and all kinds of remnant manufacturing process debris saturating the guts of the works/action. After I hosed out the trigger group I used Break Free gun lube with the included dropper and deliberately and exactingly hit, with a drop or two, every fulcrum point on every moving part. I then used computer duster compressed air to push that oil around to thin coat all the rest of the trigger section 'inerds' then re-assembled the rifle. My action is as smooth as butter where before I could feal grit and heavy abrasion when I took the gun out of the box.
Give this a wearl and let us know how it goes. Don't forget us now. I type like a chicken pecks for food and it took a long time to make all these spillin' errors fer ya!
Good call, the reason I recommended the WD is everyone usually has it. But the contact cleaner is better, but he needs to lube after it's use, like you said. "Old man?"
I'll follow your advice and clean with that crc stuff like I have ocd and lube it just as you described.
It a pretty old gun actually. About 12 years or so and admittidly I haven't fired it in at least 5 years and the condition I stored it away in wasn't the best. The cost of shooting just anything else these days has pushed me back to the 10/22 for the fundamentals and plinking.
I'll do as you say but it might take me a few days. I'll keep you posted.
I had the day off yesterday and I got it all done. I even went so far as to disassemble the trigger group completely to clean it. When I did I noticed the safety was upside down with the flat part at the bottom where the pin is and the M shaped part sticking up. No wonder my safety had been misbehaving.
So I fixed that and cleaned and lubed everything to what must be better than factory clean.
The problem persists.
If I back way off the stock screw it will operate but this puts a good quarter inch gap between the barrel and the stock at the end of the stocks barrel channel. Is that acceptable? Could I just use a really thick bedding?
Well, outside of the stock I can recreate the binding by putting pressure on the trigger group pushing it up into the receiver. Somewhere the stock could close in more narrowly and be pushing up on the trigger group as I push down on the receiver?
When pressed into the stock completely there does seem to be a millimeter or so material beyond the magazine well making what I assume should be flush with the stock appear to be recessed.
The rear of the receiver fits nicely and the tightness is felt when the front end (in front of the mag well with the two leg looking spikes) goes in.
I can't let this go. You're helping me learn.
I just pulled my rifle out of the stock and looked where the stock might be exerting some upward pressure on the trigger guard. My pistol grip DOES come in under the rear most leading edge of the trigger section but it is undercut enough as to not push up on the trigger. But I did try something else....
I dropped the rear trigger group to receiver pin then pushed up, rather gently on the rear of the trigger to see if this would interfere with the bolt movement. With very little effort, it created a great deal of interference. Then I pulled down on the back of the trigger group and got interference again. Hang up king of interference. This with maybe 3 pounds of exertions. Let's toss the idea that the stock is actually the trouble-maker. How tight is the binding/tolerances between the pin bores in both the trigger group and the related bore in the receiver? How tight is the same relationship for the front pin? Are they worn? Is any one wallowed out or egg shaped? What is the condition of the pins?
Pull your pins out, one at a time and tweak the pivot points to see if you can amplify or relieve the same symptoms. See what you find there.
Pull the trigger group and swing up the ejector pin. Is there garbage built up in the thin channel the pin sits in? making the pin drag along the bottom of the bolt? Is there any unusual wear along the hammer face? or gouging along the bottom of the bolt where the hammer face glides?
It's been a while. I had to put the thing down. It was driving me crazy.
After a week I picked it up again and just took a Dremel tool to the area forward of the magazine where it appeared to haging up causing the compression that was stopping the bolt.
I ground around and smoothed the area out and the gun dropped right in rather than having to be pressed in and the bolt cycles perfectly just the way it should.
Anyway, I appreciate the help you all offered in pointing me toward a solution and if it werent for you guys I probably never would have cleaned the rifle so I'm sure the 10/22 thanks you as well.
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