Rifles Misc All rifles not covered elsewhere!

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Old 06-19-2011, 13:35   #1
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Thumbs up Lar-8 long range

I got a chance to join the long range shooting group at a local range last wednesday. With some good coaching the gongs at 778 and 900 yards were soon ringing. The 20 inch heavy barel with 168gr SMK's was veary consisitant
making hits on the 24 by 24 inch plates quite easy once the scope was dialed in. The scope is a SWFA 10x and it seamed to track perfectly between settings. This week I hope to try the 1000 and 1100 yard gongs. Looking down the range was a bit intimidating at first, but with the first ring I was hooked. If you get a chance to try some long range shooting, give it a try I havent had that much fun in a long time.
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:02   #2
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Wow!!! That is really great shooting, Bear. Keep it up and keep us updated on how it goes with the LAR-8 rifle. Are you using high quality ammo, if so, what kind?
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Old 06-30-2011, 19:06   #3
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Iv'e not made it back in the last two weeks, work keeps geting in the way. The ammo Iv'e used is home brew, win brass, reloder 15 (42gr), 168 gr matchkings and federal match primers. The load goes sub sonic at about 1050 yards(3500ft here in MT.) so I may need to change to 175s to reach 1100 yards. The consistancy of the LAR-8 has impressed several many who have shot it. The first shot (cold bore) groops with the rest. Avrage 100yd groops stay around.6 in for 5 rounds when I do my part. This is off a bipod so I beleive the rifle might be capable of better. No functioning problems yet aprox. 800 rnds.
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Old 06-30-2011, 23:30   #4
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Okay. Good. Now all you need to do is break in the rifle. Once that's done your groups should tighten up even more..
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Old 07-01-2011, 20:04   #5
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Herd Sniper, I'm new to long range shooting. Any tips?
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Old 07-02-2011, 15:42   #6
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Just take your time and allow for about 300 to 500 rounds to be used to get a decent breaking in period. The breaking in lets the parts of your rifle mesh and lets you get used to the rifle too. After say 500 or so rounds, your shot groups should tighten up quite a lot. When I went to Sniper School back in 1970 they wouldn't even think about zeroing our rifles unless we had at least 300 rounds through them and a shot group under the size of a quarter. The shot group had to be at least 3 rounds and preferably 5 rounds if possible. By the end of the course your shot groups had to be under the size of a dime. Take your time and do it right. What kind of scope are you using?
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Old 07-02-2011, 19:18   #7
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The scope is a swfa SS 10x40m (Tasco Super Sniper), cheap but gets good reviews and is seeing some action in the sand currently. I have no complaints with it so far. It tracks perfectly so far from 900 yards back to 100 yards.
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:30   #8
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Okay, good. That is a decent scope for general precision shooting needs. In Nam our sniper rifles came with 2 scopes and 1 set of metal sights, national match precision grade, already mounted on our rifles. With what I now know, I would set my rifle up a little differently.

#1. I would want precision national match metal sights on it. I would zero those sights at a distance of 25 yards. Now when you zero your sights, that means you slip the distance wheel so that it reads on the money for the 25 yard/meter setting on the sight. In other words the 25 yard mark actually means 25 yards for your shooting needs.

#2. The 10 power scope would be my precision shooting scope and I would zero that scope for 200 or even 300 yards/meters. I would want to make sure that it was dead on for which distance I set it. This dead on setting will pretty much let you rule the neighborhood, so to speak, from basically 0 to about 600 meters or so without much trouble at all. Just allow for windage when shooting beyond 300 meters.

#3. For general use I would have a simple 4 X or 4 power scope mounted on the rifle most of the time. This would be a simple scope like a Tasco or Bushnell. Most of your shooting needs, especially defensive shooting needs, will occur at closer distances of well under 200 yards. A simple 4 X scope lets you quickly return fire or gives you a good tactical edge that others won't have. This scope I would zero for about 100 to 150 yards or so. Another option would be to use a simple red dot scope on the rifle for close range engagements. If you zero the strike of the bullet so that it is right at the top of the red dot at 100 yards then this lets you accurately use the red dot from zero to about 300 meters or so. This method of zeroing the shot group at the top of the red dot is so easy it is almost like cheating when going for body/silhouette shots.

#4. Consider getting a night vision scope. Zero it for about 100 yards or so. You don't have to get a real expensive scope but having a night vision scope gives you another tactical edge in the dark of the night that most others won't have available to them. I got one years ago and it cost about $400.00 in those days. Some of the night vision scopes have covers on them that let you zero them in the daylight. You can actually sight on a target when the sun is out, zero the rifle while leaving the cover in place to protect the scope from burning it out and get a decent zero that you can use at night.

I would do all this gradually, over time, as I got better at my shooting, learned more of my craft and gradually developed a shooting program that fits my personal needs. Good luck. Oh, and you also might want to take some rifle courses after you have your rifle broke in real good. Appleseed courses are good as are some long range shooting courses taught by various trainers across the U.S. Take care and let me know how it goes.
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:43   #9
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Nice shooting Bear!, I have an LAR8 that I hope to do some distance shooting with soon. Its an Operator model, and says it comes with a 16" barrel, but I swear its at least a 20" (is that possible?) It measures approx 20" from the back of the handguard/rail system to the end of the threads on the barrel. It looks exactly like what is shown on their site that is a 16", but I dont see any way it could be a 16, am I reading the measurements wrong? Its the standard barrel as far as I know. This is the first 308 AR I've had, so I'm a noob, but I've got several AR's in 5.56 that measure out exactly what they are said to be, so this was slightly confusing
Hard to find a long distance range around these parts, most are 300yds and under, I have to travel a bit to have some real fun
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:51   #10
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Originally Posted by Herd Sniper View Post
Okay, good. That is a decent scope for general precision shooting needs. In Nam our sniper rifles came with 2 scopes and 1 set of metal sights, national match precision grade, already mounted on our rifles. With what I now know, I would set my rifle up a little differently.

#1. I would want precision national match metal sights on it. I would zero those sights at a distance of 25 yards. Now when you zero your sights, that means you slip the distance wheel so that it reads on the money for the 25 yard/meter setting on the sight. In other words the 25 yard mark actually means 25 yards for your shooting needs.

#2. The 10 power scope would be my precision shooting scope and I would zero that scope for 200 or even 300 yards/meters. I would want to make sure that it was dead on for which distance I set it. This dead on setting will pretty much let you rule the neighborhood, so to speak, from basically 0 to about 600 meters or so without much trouble at all. Just allow for windage when shooting beyond 300 meters.

#3. For general use I would have a simple 4 X or 4 power scope mounted on the rifle most of the time. This would be a simple scope like a Tasco or Bushnell. Most of your shooting needs, especially defensive shooting needs, will occur at closer distances of well under 200 yards. A simple 4 X scope lets you quickly return fire or gives you a good tactical edge that others won't have. This scope I would zero for about 100 to 150 yards or so. Another option would be to use a simple red dot scope on the rifle for close range engagements. If you zero the strike of the bullet so that it is right at the top of the red dot at 100 yards then this lets you accurately use the red dot from zero to about 300 meters or so. This method of zeroing the shot group at the top of the red dot is so easy it is almost like cheating when going for body/silhouette shots.

#4. Consider getting a night vision scope. Zero it for about 100 yards or so. You don't have to get a real expensive scope but having a night vision scope gives you another tactical edge in the dark of the night that most others won't have available to them. I got one years ago and it cost about $400.00 in those days. Some of the night vision scopes have covers on them that let you zero them in the daylight. You can actually sight on a target when the sun is out, zero the rifle while leaving the cover in place to protect the scope from burning it out and get a decent zero that you can use at night.

I would do all this gradually, over time, as I got better at my shooting, learned more of my craft and gradually developed a shooting program that fits my personal needs. Good luck. Oh, and you also might want to take some rifle courses after you have your rifle broke in real good. Appleseed courses are good as are some long range shooting courses taught by various trainers across the U.S. Take care and let me know how it goes.
Thats great info, thanks
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Old 07-06-2011, 20:13   #11
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Lotsa good advice here. Here is my opinions on a couple of the points raised by Herd Sniper.

FWIW, I think it might have been a typo regarding the iron sights. A 25 yard zero should be pretty darn close at 200 yards. Is that what you meant Herd Sniper?

For the 10X scope, I would zero it at 600 yards. I will look for the picture that depicts the holds for various distances with a 600 yard zero and post it ASAP. The second choice is a 300 yard zero.
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Old 07-11-2011, 19:40   #12
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FWIW, I think it might have been a typo regarding the iron sights. A 25 yard zero should be pretty darn close at 200 yards. Is that what you meant Herd Sniper?

What I was talking about there was slipping the knob so that the 25 yard mark is right on the money for a 25 yard setting. In other words, you zero the metal sights at 25 yards, slip the knob so that 25 yards really does equal 25 yards on the measurement setting. Now, once you have the knob properly set for 25 yards, allowing for the 10 factor in the ballistic arc, your point of aim should meet up for both the 25 yard shots and, IIRC, for 250 yard shots too. But the key is setting the distance on the knob for metal sights right on.

With the 7.62/.308 rounds, if you have targets that are closer than your zero distance, say you used 300 meters for your zero, shooting a target at 150 meters will require you to aim lower on the target. So to hit the chest of the target, you won't aim at the chest, you would aim below the belt on the target. Closer in targets mean you aim lower on the target. Further out targets mean you aim higher up on the target and allow for windage too. Once you get all this down pat, and believe me it WILL take some practice, you will be home free.
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Old 08-22-2011, 19:25   #13
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I,ve made it out to the range a few more times with the lar-8. I moved the scope forward a bit to obtain a tighter fit to the rifle and minimize free recoil during shooting. The groops became dime size one hole for 5 rounds. I have had no problems with the scope or rifle and am impressed with the consitancy, much better than mine. two weeks ago I was not hitting the plates (just left then just right). The R.O. and spotter asked if I had droped the rifle or somthing, I replied no and asked him if he would shoot it to see if he could identify the probem. After a couple shots he clicked the scope adjustments a few times then ran 5 rounds in to the center of the 900 yd plate, smilling at me he just replied seems fine to me. Some times you the bear and some times the bear gets you.
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