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Old 07-16-2007, 10:43   #1
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Reviews of gun care/maintenance solutions

I've come up with a very simple rating system for evaluting firearms maintenance solutions. There are so many of them out there, with more coming on the market all the time, we need some factual basis for actually comparing them, beyond just general statements such as "I like solution X, it's always worked for me." That may be true, but it doesn't tell you anything about how solvent X works, and what are its pros/cons. Most of the rating items below are subjective as well, but at least they force you to think a little more systematically about how you compare products.

As I've browsed threads on multiple forums, and had discussions with folks about what makes good solutions for caring for firearms, a number of factors come up repeatedly, and these are the items that appear in my grid here to rate each solution. I'll describe each rating item below. For each item, a 5 point rating means "best possible", while 1 means "worst possible." If a given factor is not part of the stated purpose of a solution (if the solution is not intended for lubrication, for example), then use "N.A." (not applicable) for the rating. Each item will receive a numerical score consisting of the total number of rating points it receives divided by the number of items it was actually rated on (items it receives an "N.A." on, for example if a solvent does not have a stated purpose of provided lubrication, then it is not rated on those items, and they are not counted in the results). Highest scores are the best.

In a series of separate posts, one for each product I've used, I'll rate the products according to the following ratings system.

Note: If other folks would like to supply their own ratings of cleaning/maintenance products, using my approach here, I'd urge you to make a post and do so. It would be great to have the feedback of others, that just makes the ratings all the more useful, even if you rate the same products I do and come up with different results. Please go for it!


Rating Items Explained


Affordability: with every maintenance solution, it's not just a question of whether it works well, there's also the issue of whether you can afford to keep using it. Two issues come into play here: how fast you go through it (how much do you have to use to get the job done), and cost per ounce (what are the best bulk rate buys you can find for the stuff).

Cleaning: How effective is the solvent at all-purpose cleaning tasks? Some solvents are great at lube/protection, while being terrible at cleaning.

Lubrication: How effective is the solvent at all-purpose lubrication tasks? Does it do everything you need for lubing, or will you need additional stuff such as grease to complement the use of this solvent?

Protection
: How well does it prevent rust and corrosion?

Deposit removal: How effective is the solvent at removing built up bore deposits of embedded copper, moly-type materials, other materials? Do you have to get a separate solution for this purpose? If a solution is not intended to work on deposits, it gets an "N.A." rating, but if it is so intended, it is given a score.

Material safety: Is the solvent "safe" for all the materials of your firearm, or will it harm certain metals, plastics, wood, or rubber?

Biological safety: Is the solvent toxic to breathe, to get on your skin, or to pour down the drain? Will it kill your beloved dog if he laps at a spill?

Convenience: This is subjective to each user, but encompasses issues involving how easy this stuff is to work with. For instance, does the stuff smell really bad? Many users must clean in their homes, and foul-smelling solvents are a major pain. What about the consistency of the chemicals used, are they too sticky or gummy or too runny, too hard to work with in some way, etc? Can the stuff be used for other purposes besides gun maintenance? Many owners find that very convenient, not having to buy so many solutions.


How the rating scores works:

* I rate each solvent for each of the factors described in the previous post. 5 means the best possible rating, 1 is the worst, and "N.A." means that a given factor is not relevant for this product, so it is not counted in the results.

* Each solvent is given a final score, which consists of the total number of points that item is rated in all categories, divided by the number of items that the solvent is rated on (N.A. items are not counted). So if you have bore cleaning ONLY type of solvent, which does not lube or protect against rust, you'd put "N.A." in those categories, and to get its total score, you'd add up the total number of points divided by 6--rather than 8--since two categories were N.A.



Template for ratings
(copy and paste the following template into a post if you want to rate a product of you own):


Product:
Overall rating:
Comments:
Recommendation:

Scores

Affordability:
Cleaning:
Lubrication:
Protection:
Deposit removal:
Material safety:
Biological safety:
Convenience:

Last edited by timlt; 07-17-2007 at 11:53.
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:24   #2
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Rating Ballistol

Product: Ballistol
Overall rating: 4.5
Comments: An all-purpose CLP-like gun solvent, known for being incredibly useful at many household purposes, and better at cleaning and rust protection than most gun solvents. Very affordable, purchased in bulk. Also known for being extremely safe on humans. Unlike virtually every other gun solvent, you can use it to clean and protect EVERY part of your gun: the bore, the steel, the action, the wood, rubber, or fiberglass stock. It's truly good at everything. I still think it is the best all-purpose gun juice in existence, and would use it even over Gunzilla if I had to use just one solvent for everything. It's every bit as safe as Gunzilla, doesn't smell as bad, and can be bought in bulk for FAR cheaper. It cleans as well as Gunzilla, and BETTER than most other products which are better at lubing but not so good at cleaning (such as Breakfree CLP). It also protects from rust BETTER than Gunzilla, from what I've observed, though I have not had the chance to perform long-term testing or desert tests for corrosion and resistance to grit. Again, if I had to use just one solvent for everything, and indeed for other things around my house, it'd be Ballistol. Why don't I use it exclusively, now? Because I've found that using a combination of 2 or 3 specialized products, the Hoppes Elite family combined with a bore paste, actually gets me the best results. But I still keep some Ballistol around, and it's still great for use on wood stocks.
Recommendation: Highest recommendation, if you are a "one-solvent-ONLY" type of person. Or as an alternate, if you are one-solvent and don't like this, then use Gunzilla--these are the tops IMO. And even if this isn't your primary solvent, I'd still keep a can of the liquid or aerosol version around (and I do). It's better at a lot of the stuff you use WD40 for, like spraying into locks and other household uses.


Scores

Affordability: 5
Cleaning: 4
Lubrication: 5
Protection: 5
Deposit removal: 3
Material safety: 5
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 4

Last edited by timlt; 07-18-2007 at 10:17.
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:24   #3
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Rating BoreTech Eliminator

Product: BoreTech Eliminator
Overall rating: 4.0
Comments: Eliminator is specially designed as a bore cleaner that removes copper, moly-coatings, lead, etc. It is supposed to be one of the new ultrasafe, biodegradable and non-toxic cleaners. Indeed, I found it safe to use without gloves, did not smell bad, etc. But you'd still have to use a lube/protectant with this stuff, as it's just a cleaner. Worse, I found it was really not that effective as promised. You'd run patch after patch per the instructions, and they'd start to come out clean, and then if you ran a brass brush, or used paste, you could always get more gunk. At first I though this stuff was great, but I ended up thinking it was rather mediocre and overpriced considering its main purpose of being a best-of-breed all-purpose bore cleaner. Many in the benchrest community are supposedly using this as they think it's great at getting out copper, but I just don't see it. I can always get out more gunk after using this stuff, so bottom line, it doesn't cut it. Further, it's quite expensive per ounce, and you can't buy in large bulk (yet, anyway). Finally, I found it annoying as it constantly attacks your brass tips and so forth, turning them blue, which makes it very hard to tell when your bore is finally clean.
Recommendation: Acceptable, but not recommended. There are better options.

Scores

Affordability: 3
Cleaning: 4
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: N.A.
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 5
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 3
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:37   #4
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Rating Breakfree CLP

Product: Breakfree CLP
Overall rating: 3.13
Comments: Breakfree CLP obviously has a tremendous reputation and loyal following, partly due to its being the default solution used by many units in the service. And it is good. But aside from the fact that I found there are solvents that do a FAR better job on my guns (and that's the main issue, for me), there are several other issues that rule it out, for me personally. First, it is incredibly toxic, many soldiers have reported major skin problems because they aren't provided gloves or protection when using the stuff while on duty. And it has been shown to cause toxic build-up in human organs, just due to prolonged skin exposure. This is nasty stuff. Further, as to its effectiveness, I found that it doesn't clean that well, certainly not even as well as Ballistol at tasks such as removing lead, if you just compare it to another all-purpose solvent. And it definitely is not good at removing tougher stuff, like embedded copper, without a lot of elbow grease and use of brushes. Also, though it doesn't affect us range weenies much, this stuff is a known cause of many weapons problems/failures/seize-ups in Iraq. It attracts grit, which is a huge problem. They need solvents over there that are better at resisting grit, and one solvent that troops are raving over in this regard is the new Gunzilla. It is likely that many of the weapons-related problems in Iraq today are being at least contributed to, if not caused by, the use of traditional CLP in the desert climate. Finally, Breakfree CLP is TERRIBLE at rust prevention. I have seen several long-term studies comparing the rust prevention effectiveness of multiple solvents, and those that came out on top did NOT include Breakfree CLP. It appears to do well in the short run, but not in longer term storage.
Recommendation: OK for short-term use, as an all-purpose, one-solvent type of solution. Definitely not recommended for use in desert climates, there are several better "one-solvent" options, especially Ballistol and Gunzilla.

Scores

Affordability: 4
Cleaning: 3
Lubrication: 4
Protection: 3
Deposit removal: 3
Material safety: 2
Biological safety: 2
Convenience:4

Last edited by timlt; 07-18-2007 at 10:16.
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:04   #5
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Rating Gunslick Foaming bore cleaner

Product: Gunslick foaming bore cleaner
Overall rating: 3.33
Comments: Does a better job of cleaning than Breakfree CLP, for instance, and DOES work on embedded copper. And it does not smell bad, as many cleaners do, but it is not as safe as some of the other new biodegradable solvents, and it's not recommended to get it on your skin or breathe the stuff. Also, the foam approach (you spray foam into your bore) is very messy, it tends to get into the action and make a big mess, and it still does not do a top-notch job of cleaning. Plus, you'll still need other care solvents.
Recommendation: There are better choices; look elsewhere.

Scores

Affordability: 4
Cleaning: 4
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: N.A.
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 3
Biological safety: 3
Convenience: 2
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:15   #6
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Rating Gunzilla BC-10

Product: Gunzilla BC-10
Overall rating: 4.25
Comments: This is a true, all-in-one solution for gun care. It is one of the new high-tech, totally safe and biodegradable products. It will not harm other materials on your gun, nor will it harm you, or your skin. It does have a distinctive strong smell, but the smell is not terrible, and is not the worst of any solvent I've tried by a long shot. Also the smell does not carry far from the bottle; it does not permeate even a small room, for instance. The solvent is unique in being 100% plant-based; the only of its kind on the market. It was created when the owner kept hearing reports about frequent weapons failures in Iraq (due to the issued CLP solvent attracting grit), and also reports about skin irritations and other health issues arising from the use of CLP. Troops that have used Gunzilla in Iraq are in raves about the product: most are claiming 100% elimination of weapons failures, as the stuff goes on "dry" and does not attract grit. Its cleaning properties are not the BEST of any cleaner I've tried, but it is definitely AMONG the best. As for its rust prevention, long-term, that remains to be seen. Overall, I would rate Gunzilla as being near or equal to Ballistol in its overall usefulness and effectiveness as a gun care solution. Its main drawbacks, to me, are that it is the most expensive of any solvent I've tried, and (like most all-in-one solutions) it cannot completely remove all embedded copper from a bore, so you'll still need some other solutions to go with it.
Recommendation: If you want to use an all-in-one solvent, and find that you don't like Ballistol, this is the stuff to use. You can hardly go wrong, using either of these solutions, although Ballistol is more useful for a variety of tasks (for instance, you can use Ballistol to clean and protect your wood stock, and Gunzilla cannot do that; also, Ballistol is much less expensive). But note, I do think there's a choice that gives you more effective gun care, and for a more affordable price. See the rating for Mpro-7/Hoppes Elite.

Scores

Affordability: 2
Cleaning: 4
Lubrication: 5
Protection: 5
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 5
Biological safety: 5
Convenience:4
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:46   #7
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Rating Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7

Product: This is made by Pantheon chemical under two product names: Hoppes Elite, and Mpro-7. You need both the cleaner and either their "gun oil" product or their "CLP/Field cleaner" product. Overall rating: 4.63
Comments: This product, marketed under both the Hoppes Elite and the Mpro-7 labels, is the best I've found for overall maintenance. It has absolutely NO smell at all, and is completely non-toxic, biodegradable, and safe for the skin. I can clean for hours, while my children sit 3 feet away watching television, and they cannot smell it. I don't need to wear gloves, as it has no irritating properties that cause it to interact with my skin. It will not harm any plastics, wood, or metals that I've yet noticed on any of my firearms. The cleaner product is amazing: it just seems to melt away carbon and other gunk. And after you've used it few times, it seems to condition the metal, so that subsequent cleanings become much easier. With some of my rifles, it literally will only take me 3 to 4 patches pulled through with my Otis cleaning kit (the patches soaked in the solvent), and they are clean. And the CLP solvent, which I use for my lube/protectant, and for an all-purpose solution out in the field or at the range, is absolutely hands down the best stuff I've come across. It takes such a tiny amount of it to cover large surfaces, and stays on. Its properties enable it to resist very high temperatures (800 degrees fahr), so you can use it on semiauto slides, etc., and it will not break down from heat, or sling off. And even using the stuff in the damp Pacific NW where I live, I never see a spot of rust on any of my rifles. The only disadvantages I've found, are that this is not the cheapest stuff you can get; but if you buy it in bulk (get the 32oz sizes or larger) it is less than some other solutions out there. Also, obviously you need to buy the two solutions, you can't get by with just one (but it does do a much better job, and I find that I can use the CLP solution at the range for field cleaning). Finally, I find that, like every other cleaner I've tried, you cannot use this as your ONLY cleaner. This stuff does seem to remove SOME copper, especially if you let it sit in the bore for awhile, but every few cleanings or so, you'll still also need some type of solvent for removing embedded copper. I use Iosso bore paste, and a brass brush, with my Otis pull-through system, about once every 4 cleanings to remove copper.
Recommendation: Get it. This is the best solution for maintenance that I have found. It just barely edges out Ballistol, as this stuff is slightly better at cleaning, but Ballistol makes up for that by being more affordable.

Scores

Affordability: 3
Cleaning: 5
Lubrication: 5
Protection: 5
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 5
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 5
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:39   #8
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Rating CorrosionX

Product: CorrosionX
Overall rating: 4.13
Comments: Of all the products I've tried, this one is hands down the best at the "lubrication/protection" aspect of the "CLP" formula. The only product that even comes close to competing with CorrosionX in these areas are the Hoppes Elite/Mpro CLP solution, and Gunzilla. If lubrication and rust protection were the only things I was concerned with, I'd buy CorrosionX. Studies have shown that, along with Eezox, CorrosionX holds up long term and protects metals from rust better than most every solution out there. Plus this stuff is very safe for humans, though according to the MSDS sheets, my impression is it has a higher level of risk than say Ballistol and Gunzilla, because it is indeed still petroleum-based. The main drawbacks are that it is pretty expensive (if you want to buy, find the gallon size and buy in bulk; it'll get your cost per ounce way down). Also, it is not quite as effective at cleaning as Ballistol and Gunzilla, so if you get it, you'll need to supplement it with another solvent for cleaning your bore.
Recommendation: Recommended. There are better options: Ballistol, Gunzilla, or Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 are more complete and effective solutions, because they are better at cleaning. But CorrosionX could be a great solution too, if you use it together with a great bore cleaning product.

Scores

Affordability: 2
Cleaning: 3
Lubrication: 5
Protection: 5
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 4
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 5
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Old 07-19-2007, 23:50   #9
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Awesome reviews, timlt. Have to admit to being a bit surprised about the Breakfree CLP (and I just bought a 12 oz container of it a few months ago that will last years - drat) being of relatively mediocre effectiveness. And I'll now use latex* gloves when using much of it, and as for having lots of it, it appears to keep well and can therefor be kept as backup. Ballistol is hereby on my to-get list. Thanks again for this useful info.

*having looked at a few other sites for further info, it seems gloves like these
http://www.labsafety.com/store/Safet..._Gloves/36164/
might be more suitable for cleaning firearms, being more resistant to solvents.

And from the MSDS
http://www.break-free.com/products/m...clp_liquid.pdf
it appears that Breakfree CLP isn't particularly toxic, though it's clearly harsh and could be toxic for some, particularly with regular or prolonged exposure. I certainly understand the reports of troops liking Gunzilla and wanting more!

Last edited by freesw; 07-20-2007 at 00:14.
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Old 07-24-2007, 13:38   #10
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Rating Shooters Choice Xtreme Clean

Product: Shooters Choice Xtreme Clean
Overall rating: 3.67
Comments: Still smells pretty strong, and you need to use gloves, though they claim it is ammonia free. Also, found it defaced a finished aluminum surface on a 10/22. Cleaning, which is its specialty, was OK but there are better choice. A very good price at only 1$ per ounce, but not that effective.
Recommendation: Get something else; better options are available.

Scores

Affordability: 5
Cleaning: 4
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: N.A.
Deposit removal: 3
Material safety: 2
Biological safety: 4
Convenience: 4
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Old 07-24-2007, 13:48   #11
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Rating Remington 40X Bore Cleaner

Product: Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner
Overall rating: 4.00
Comments: This stuff is a specialized cleaner that is seriously underrated in the gun care market. It is a mild abrasive cleaner, like JB Bore Paste, but is actually very well thought out in that they made it in a liquid form so it's much easier to get it on a patch. This will seriously cut through copper and other deposits and get stuff out of a bore that you thought was already squeaky clean. This stuff is actually made by another one of the paste cleaner companies, USP Bore Paste (the connection to Rem Cleaner is mentioned on this page), which is a VERY successful and widely used bore paste under its own name. The Rem 40X stuff is just a Remington version in liquid form. Obviously you'd need to supplement this with another cleaner for ordinary cleaning--prob. don't want to use it every time you clean, but just occasionally, to remove deposits. And of course you still need a lube/protecting solution as well. The ONLY reason I use Iosso Bore Paste instead of this stuff is that Iosso is white, and therefore when it comes out BLACK, you can tell when there's still gunk in your barrel. This stuff is dark gray to begin with, so it's rather hard to tell when you've actually got your barrel clean, vs. whether it's just the solvent still showing up on your patch.
Recommendation: A very good mild abrasive cleaner for removing built-up deposits, in combination with a regular CLP product. Recommended, but if you want a bore paste, consider Iosso Bore paste instead. Also it's a bit expensive per ounce.

Scores

Affordability: 2
Cleaning: 5
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: N.A.
Deposit removal: 4
Material safety: 4
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 4
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Old 07-24-2007, 13:55   #12
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Rating Iosso Bore Paste

Product: Iosso Bore Paste
Overall rating: 4.5
Comments: One of the best mild abrasive paste cleaners available. Use in combination with any regular cleaner, such as a CLP product, Ballistol, or Hoppes/Mpro cleaner. Use Iosso monthly, or a few times a year, to remove built-up deposits of copper, etc. Goes on as a white paste, and applied with brushes or patches. No smell, harmless to people and materials, highly effective. I use this in combination with my Hoppes Elite cleaner. One thing I really like about this stuff is that, because it's white, you can actually tell when it's still cleaning gunk out of your bore. The Rem cleaner is a dark gray to begin with, so it's harder to figure out when you're actually clean.
Recommendation: Strongly recommended, when used as an occasional "deep cleaning" solution, along with a regular cleaner such as Ballistol, Mpro-7, or Gunzilla.

Scores

Affordability: 3
Cleaning: 5
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: N.A.
Deposit removal: 5
Material safety: 5
Biological safety: 5
Convenience: 4

Last edited by timlt; 07-28-2007 at 11:30.
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Old 07-28-2007, 22:51   #13
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Very helpful timlt!
I have to say that CorrosionX is a terrific product. It's replaced most of my old standbys including Rem Oil, Breakfree, FP-10, and Tri Flow.
Mike of CorrosionX was offering free samples a while back. It was just a matter of asking @ http://www.corrosionx.com/
I've found Eezox and CorrosionX to be the best rust preventers as well.

Thanks again for the helpful info!

SD
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Old 08-09-2007, 11:06   #14
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Thanks for the thread. I use M-Pro7 all the time. I highly recommend it...the smell is great!
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Old 08-25-2007, 22:41   #15
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For anyone who was convinced by my review about the Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 line of gun cleaner and gun oil products, there's an AWESOME deal on a bulk buy of the gun cleaner right now. It's $21.54 for a 32oz bottle at CTD, which is about as cheap per ounce price as I've ever seen it. If you want this cleaner, I'd load up on this deal NOW!!!

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/47942-56931-1967.html
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Old 08-26-2007, 23:44   #16
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Timlt,

Thanks so much for all the info. I grew up with Hoppe's No. 9 and a coat of oil. The only other products I've branched out into are Hoppe's Elite and Gunzilla, but almost by happenstance. Your post has explained the new landscape greatly. Your considerable effort is much appreciated.

While I can't add anything useful to your reviews, I do thank you for the notice about the Hoppe's Elite/MPro-7 deal on CTD. I got 8 ozs. a while ago for $12, and this will basically cut that cost in half (32 ozs. for $24)!
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:31   #17
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Rating Sharp Shoot'r Wipe-Out

Product: Sharp Shoot'r Wipe-out
Overall rating: 4.6
Comments: My preferred method for deep cleaning a bore. All things considered, this is the most convenient, least expensive, and most effective deep bore cleaner you can get. Use it every 3rd or 4th time you clean your gun, in combination with your regular cleaner (I suggest Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 Gun Cleaner), and most bores will look like a polished mirror, with no metallic waste build-up. I love the fact that, unlike other bore cleaners, this stuff doesn't have an awful smell (I can't even smell it unless I get up close to the foam. And it's so easy to use, no scrubbing or brushing. You just spray this foam into your barrel, leave it sit for an hour or two (you can leave it overnight for deep cleaning), then just run a patch through, and you're done. It even leaves a rust protection layer behind, so no need to run additional patches with oil or other solvents, once it's clean.
Recommendation: Highly recommended, not only because it's the easiest cleaning approach, but also because it works the best!

Scores

Affordability: 5
Cleaning: 5
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: 4
Deposit removal: 5
Material safety: 4
Biological safety: 4
Convenience: 5
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:58   #18
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My gun cleaning regimen

A few folks after reading these reviews sent PM's asking what I personally do for my cleaning approach on my guns. So I'll list it here.

I'm no authority on guns or on chemistry. But one thing I've done is read tons of reviews and studies I could find on the Internet, and in gun mags and books, about various solvents and recommended approaches to cleaning. Another thing is, I've tried a lot of the recommended approaches myself, kept notes, and compared them. My approach keeps evolving, as I like to try need products and approaches when they sound interesting, but this is what I've currently arrived it. It seems to be the most effective, and cost-effective, approach I've come across so far.


Maintenance Products I use

Cleaning kit
The Otis system all the way. Specially I use the Otis Tactical kit, as it'll clean virtually every rifle, pistol, revolver, and shotgun you have in the main calibers, and it all fits in one little hamburger-sized kit you can carry anywhere! Compare that, versus lugging around a whole tackle-box full of brushes and tips, patches, and then special long carrier for cleaning rods, and so on. I've tried so many varieties of rods, coated/uncoated, you won't believe it. But the Otis pull-through system, combined with the solvents I use below, gets my guns cleaner than anything else I've tried. And the beauty of Otis is, it's so totally safe for your bore, your muzzle crown, etc. There's very little danger of damaging your muzzle like there is with a rod. And with the Otis, another advantage is you don't have to buy all this separate stuff: no need for multiple cleaning rods (one per caliber), no need for bore guides, muzzle protectors, rod carriers, and all the other junk the gun companies want to sell you. And though their patches appear to cost more at first than other plain gun patches, actually you spend LESS, because you can use each patch at least 2, and often 3 or 4 times before you discard it (you keep turning the patch and using different surfaces that are clean). Finally, Otis actually gets my guns cleaner than the traditional rod approach. The Otis system forms a conical shape with the patch on the tip, and it exerts a more powerful and uniform pressure on all surfaces of the bore as you pull it through, so it gets things cleaner and works faster. Trust me on this, just buy an Otis kit, use the solvents below, and your gun will be cleaner than it ever has been, you'll do it in less time, and it'll cost less money.

Solvents
- Cleaner. The new Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 Gun cleaner (same stuff is marketed under two different labels), the best cleaner by far on the market IMHO. This stuff was designed for military use to clean fighter jets, but it has incredible cleaning properties on gun metal, and is absolutely free of smell and toxicity. This will clean your guns down to bright metal so fast you won't believe it, especially as you use it longer it seems to take less time to clean your guns because they don't get as dirty to begin with.
- Lube. I use the CLP or "field cleaner" product by the same companies. I used to use CorrosionX, and still highly recommend it, but the Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 CLP product has the extra advantage that it also CLEANS better, so I can use it more effectively for an all-purpose field solvent than CorrosionX. Also, this CLP is new military grade, awesome stuff. If you read up on it at the link I gave, it has incredible lubrication properties, and can handle temp extremes from -55 to 800 degrees fahrenheit!!! It far surpasses Breakfree CLP, IMO. You don't even need a separate gun grease when you use this stuff, put it right on your slides and anywhere else you put grease. And yet in spite of how good it is, it is absolutely non-toxic, and you can barely smell it unless you put your nose right up to the bottle. Using the Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 cleaner and CLP products, they provide nearly everything I need to care for my guns, except that I use the Wipe-out and a bore paste for the occasional deep cleanings of my bore.

- Bore products. I only need to deep clean my bore occasionally, as you'll see below. For that, I use Wipe-out (see review on Wipe-Out below in this thread) every month or so. And a couple times a year I'll use Iosso bore paste to really polish my bores and get any remaining embedded stuff.

- Other. Occasionally I'll use specialty products, such as Gun Scrubber's Synthetic Safe spray for cleaning/degreasing actions and parts. Sometimes I use Flitz metal polish to polish up areas if they get oxidized, rust, or cruddy surfaces on them. Sometime I use Flitz wax to polish up my wooden stocks. And in my occasional deep cleanings, I use Simple Green to degrease parts before I clean them with soap and water. I try to avoid buying extra products like this as much as possible, as it just runs up the cost of your gun care and accumulates junk. Whenever I can, I try to use existing home care products like Simple Green or Flitz metal polish, as opposed to buying even more specialized gun products.


Cleaning Regimen

I divide my maintenance into the stuff I do every single time I use a gun, stuff that I do regularly (say twice a month or every few times I use the gun), and stuff that I do occasionally (a couple times a year or as needed).

Occasionally (maybe twice a year, or as needed):
I do a "deep" cleaning of a gun (this is only done on those that are used enough for this to be necessary, typically my AR-15's, my 10/22, and one of my pistols).

- Deep-clean the bore. Take a mild non-embedding paste (the best shooters and smiths I have read or talked to appear to use one of the following: Jb Bore paste, Iosso Bore paste, USP bore paste, or Flitz metal polish), and polish up your bore. This will get any deposits that the regular Wipe-out cleanings (see below) don't get.

- Disassemble and deep-clean the rest of the gun. This is where I'll remove actions from the stock, and take apart as much as is needed to get to all parts of the gun. I'll clean it with brushes or Q-tips soaked with my gun cleaner, then paint a good coating of lube, wipe it dry, and reassemble. Note: for guns that are really slimy and messy, I sometimes even spray internal parts down with Simple Green, scrub and rinse with water (using the sprayer in my sink), and then dry them thoroughly before lubing and reassembling.

- Clean and polish the stock. I'll clean up the stock, and if it's wood, I'll put a nice coating of Flitz wax or other type of protectant or sealer on it.


Regularly (maybe twice a month or every few uses of the gun):
I do a thorough cleaning on my bore to remove deposits. First I do a regular cleaning (see below), then I just use Wipe-out. Wipe-out is so simple: you just spray it in the bore, leave it for an hour or two, then run a patch or two through it. If the gun is really dirty, you may have to do multiple Wipe-out applications, or let it sit overnight. If you try using it on a dirty gun AFTER the gun was cleaned with another bore cleaner, often Wipe-Out will bring out even more crud that you didn't think was there.


Every time I shoot:

- Cleaning the bore. Using my Otis kit, I'll put some cleaner on a patch, and pull it through the bore. Same approach for rifles and pistols. On one of my well-maintained guns that has been getting this treatment for awhile, I only have to do this a couple of times, followed by a couple of dry patches, to get the bore clean. That's it, you don't even have to use brushes anymore when you use the combo of the Otis kit, a cleaner, and Wipe-out once a month! Two or three repetitions of a patch soaked with the gun cleaner, followed by a dry patch, and your bore is clean and bright. Your once-a-month cleaning with Wipe-out will take care of any remaining embedded stuff! After cleaning, I run a patch with a couple drops of lube down the barrel, followed by a dry patch.

- Cleaning the action.
For rifles.
To get the chamber clean on rifles, I have a chamber cleaning kit with a handler that has a flexible tube on it, and a normal threaded cleaning-rod tipe that I can use to attach brushes, etc. You can buy this little thing at Sinclair, very handy. I'll stick this rod in and clean the chamber and throat area, and in the case of AR's, there are special brushes for cleaning the lugs and so on. Then I'll use a nylon brush and Q-tips, all soaked with cleaner, and clean out the rest of the action, the bolt, etc. After cleaning the action, I'll use Q-tips and apply a light coat of lube. (I'm not going to go into special cleaning procedures, such as for the BCG in an AR, as that's too much detail for here).

For pistols
I'll wipe down all the parts I can access, including the rails, with a rag or preferable a shop-grade heavy paper towel. Then I'll use a few Q-tips soaked in cleaner, and finally I'll apply very light amounts of lube, also using Q-tips.


- Cleaning the Exterior
For all guns:
After cleaning and lubing the internals, and reassembly, I wipe down all metal parts using maybe 3 drops of lube on a soft, micro-fiber rag. Don't forget to wipe down your scope too! BTW, these rags are SO much better than standard, linty rags made out of your old socks or whatever. Buy a 12-pack of these micro-fibers at Wally World for $3 to $5 on sale, and they'll last forever and work great. They absorb better, clean better, and last longer. After wiping down all metal surfaces, I then wipe them dry, and finally wipe down the stock and non-metal surfaces.

Last edited by timlt; 09-22-2007 at 12:04.
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Old 10-12-2007, 23:26   #19
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Originally Posted by timlt View Post
Product: Sharp Shoot'r Wipe-out
Overall rating: 4.6
Comments: My preferred method for deep cleaning a bore. All things considered, this is the most convenient, least expensive, and most effective deep bore cleaner you can get. Use it every 3rd or 4th time you clean your gun, in combination with your regular cleaner (I suggest Hoppes Elite/Mpro-7 Gun Cleaner), and most bores will look like a polished mirror, with no metallic waste build-up. I love the fact that, unlike other bore cleaners, this stuff doesn't have an awful smell (I can't even smell it unless I get up close to the foam. And it's so easy to use, no scrubbing or brushing. You just spray this foam into your barrel, leave it sit for an hour or two (you can leave it overnight for deep cleaning), then just run a patch through, and you're done. It even leaves a rust protection layer behind, so no need to run additional patches with oil or other solvents, once it's clean.
Recommendation: Highly recommended, not only because it's the easiest cleaning approach, but also because it works the best!

Scores

Affordability: 5
Cleaning: 5
Lubrication: N.A.
Protection: 4
Deposit removal: 5
Material safety: 4
Biological safety: 4
Convenience: 5
Several years ago I was able to get the beta version of I believe it was Gunslick's Foam for copper. Shortly after I received some Wipe Out. I agree the Wipe Out is better but all foams had one drawback...The time element was not acceptable for those in competition who wanted to clean after a few shots. The foam was like watchin' grass grow!
Sharp Shoot'R Prods. now has an accelerator which greatly improves the reaction time. It's a worthwhile product to be used in conjunction with it's Wipe Out foam. I think the secret to removing copper from a bore is to first remove the carbon/powder/lead contaminants ...then attack the copper selectively. Many of us use plastic bristle brushes over bronze. However there are many who haven't abandon the bronze brush and insist they have experienced no harm to there expensive bores.
Some foams(Gunslick) require only a patch no brush.... but old habits die hard.


SD
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:18   #20
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+1 Gunzilla
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:30   #21
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I bought some ballistol to use in a water solutions for cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo. the solution works superbly! for that purpose I am looking forward to trying it out on my smoke poles.

Since I now have ballsitol on hand I thought Id give it a shot and see how it worked as a cleaner/lubricant and my experience was awesome this stuff clings to the metal like grease and penetrates residue like kroil. I was a diehard rem oil person but now I am all about ballistol it has replaced my need for rem oil since it does what rem oil does 10 times better.
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Old 12-07-2008, 02:31   #22
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Royal Purple synthetic gun oil. A man at work is selling the engine oil and brought me a sample of the gun oil Royal Purple makes. It seems priced a little high, 8.50 for a 4 ounce spray can. I have not tried it yet. Has anyone tried it ?
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:31   #23
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Will Gunzilla really lubricate your gun enough that you don't need to use lube oil or grease after cleaning with it?
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Old 02-09-2009, 22:18   #24
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Thanks very much Timlt:

My question is about protecting metal. If you have a couple of rifles stored in a dry inside closet and you always rub thin oil on metal surfaces after cleaning, does a good bit of the oil then rub off when putting back into the gun bag etc?

Being sort of a novice, it seems as if there could never be enough protection for the carbines, although they are only exposed to the mostly humid Mid-South climate for an hour each two weeks, on average. Of five carbines, I take one or two at a time. The ancient Savage .22 was never lubricated when I was young/ignorant (seldom used) and it still functions perfectly. Don't get me wrong, now I over-correct too much for being a deadhead back then.

Used Mini 14, 30 (stainless), Norinco SKS, two basic MN 44s (Windex down bores after shooting) and .22.

Last edited by Ignition Override; 02-09-2009 at 22:21.
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Old 04-11-2009, 17:19   #25
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I feel the need to add my 2 cents worth on REM OIL.

It seems this is sold everywhere and I'm sure many people have it and think it is a good basic gun oil with Teflon, made by Remington.

First off, there is no oil in Rem Oil. If you doubt it, just spray or drip a few drops on a sheet of paper, come back in a 1/2 hour or so, and it will be dry as a bone, just as if you put a few drops of alcohol on the paper. Of course there is powdered Teflon there but you can't see it. So it is actually a dry lubricant.

I think is best used where you need a very light lubricant, That being said, it does seem to make a very big difference on my Rem700 trigger assembly, versus using an oil. Teflon is great stuff, no doubt. I think when it is mixed into oil or a light grease it’s excellent. But I just can't see how it could work well when it is used alone(dry), and you have a serious kind of metal on metal contact. In powdered form I think it is comparable to powdered graphite, which is also good stuff. But these are best suited to delicate sorts of things, like locks and triggers. I posted this because I think that there are people spraying this on the slide of their favorite auto pistol or rifle, thinking they are protecting it against wear, and in my opinion they are not.
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