Finishes and Refinishing Parkerizing, bluing, basic refinishing.

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Old 04-14-2004, 13:20   #1
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I'm going to refinish and repaint a dinged up olive drab HK stock. Does anyone know what a good paint to match the textured black finish sometimes seen on the HK line of rifle stocks would be?
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Old 06-24-2004, 17:10   #2
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I'm not sure I even know what texture HK uses. Krylon makes a nice one but I've only seen it in Brownells. I was thinking about useing some truck bed liner, available at WallieWorld in a spray can.
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Old 06-24-2004, 21:26   #3
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I went with the WallyWorld truckbed liner. It really hides the scratches and dents well, and it holds up to major abuse. I liked it so much, I gave the old Mini stock and one of my well worn, zytel handled knives a couple coats also. Nice textured finish that really improves your hold on the weapon, without being too abrasive feeling. Easy to scrub mud and dirt off of the stock too, unlike that wrinkle finish stuff.

One of the few Walmart products I can reccomend.
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Old 06-25-2004, 06:12   #4
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Cool!!! I was wondering if it was compatable with the plastic used in stocks. I'm going to use it on my BC folders. I've got three ......... 10/22, Mini-14, and Mossburg 12g. My tactical trio.
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Old 06-25-2004, 08:21   #5
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Yeah I think this stuff is compatible with almost any plastic. (it'd probably even work well on wood) I test coated a Century Arms US made P.O.S. plastic buttstock first, just to see how well it'd work. The thing seems to be made from the same kind of plastic they make Happy Meal toys from. Anyhow, I let it dry overnight, and then soaked it in Rem-Oil, Hoppe's and CLP for a few hours. It doesn't seem to affect the finish at all. Resists scratches well, and if you ever do need to touch it up, the new finish blends seamlessly into the old.

Just make sure the first thing you spray is an old cardboard box or something. The first few blasts out of the can were really runny and goopy even after 5 minutes of shaking the can, then it evened out. Test coat a couple small things to get the hang of it, and the finish you desire. You gotta follow the instructions on the can, by using one thick, wet coat, wait 5 minutes, and then back the can away from the stock about 10 inches for the second coat. The can tossses out smaller and smaller clumps of the coating material, the further away you hold it. Too far away, and the finish will feel like 400 grit sandpaper, at right under a foot away, it'll look and feel just like a polymer truck bed liner. (that's what you want) I haven't tried it, but I think this stuff might make a great primer for a camo job.

After it dries up, you'll probably want to lightly scrub the stock with some fragranced soap, because this stuff smells prety nasty for the first few days.
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Old 06-08-2005, 21:53   #6
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Go to Napa and get some of this.




The get some Alumahyde II in matte black from Brownells.
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:57   #7
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Fusion

Talked to a rep for ATI 2 days ago about painting an AYI stock he says he has used Krylon Fusion with much success. He said to be sure to use a Scotchbrite pad to rough up the surface,detail clean and dry stock then spray away. Didn't mention primer but I will. Going to try this as soon as time allows. Willget back report
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Old 08-27-2009, 13:05   #8
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I just did the stock on my Marlin .22 wmr with the Krylon ultra flat camo stuff, came out great. I used the OD green. I'm not sure if I like the color on my gun but the finish and texture It leaves is pretty cool. It seems very durable.

I'll try to post a pic of it later tonight when I get home (if I remember)
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Old 08-27-2009, 23:56   #9
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Not the best pic but you can see it covers pretty good.


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/000_0323.jpg
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Old 09-10-2009, 21:58   #10
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I was told by a paint guy that after the "paint for plastics" came out, virtually all of them are changing over to work well, as in stick like glue, to plastic. I found old Krylon to be somewhat soft though, and would wear faster if used before it'd baked in the sun for several days before use. I painted my bright stainless Elk rifle flat black 2 days before leaving one year and everywhere it was handled was polished to semi-gloss.
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Old 09-11-2009, 16:19   #11
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Originally Posted by thickmojo View Post
Go to Napa and get some of this.




The get some Alumahyde II in matte black from Brownells.
+1 on the Alumahyde II, have painted steel, pot metal, plastic just plain works....But follow the directions!
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Old 10-17-2009, 22:10   #12
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I use Duracoat HK black on most of my weapon builds. Easy to work with as long as use have a compressor and paint gun you are in business. Applies easily and is very durable once fully cured. Key is in the preparation and the curing time. I stow the weapon for about a month after completion before using
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Old 01-02-2010, 22:07   #13
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Krylon Fusion in Olive Drab

My .22 M4 OPS done in Krylon Fusion OD. Wipe with thinner and shoot, quick initial dry for reassembly, 7 day cure time for chip resistance. Goes on easy, excellent results....I'll post durability updates.
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Old 06-08-2010, 17:56   #14
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I was on the Krylon fusion kick and did several weapons with it. Normal gun oil would cause it to tack up and wear. After awhile when I carried the weapon it would always feel tacky, have switched over to duracoat. We will see if it is any better.
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Old 06-10-2010, 16:31   #15
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Originally Posted by jtwodogs View Post
I was on the Krylon fusion kick and did several weapons with it. Normal gun oil would cause it to tack up and wear. After awhile when I carried the weapon it would always feel tacky, have switched over to duracoat. We will see if it is any better.
I haven't had any problems with the oils on my Krylon, but I have taken care to keep the oil off my painted areas, so far the Krylon is very durable.
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Last edited by minimouse; 06-19-2010 at 21:48.
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Old 06-11-2010, 03:50   #16
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Painting

I have done quite a few different finishes on guns from bluing to ceramakote, to the krylon thing and now duracoat. I used to do some bomb diggdy stocks with either the U.S. Woodland camo, and also some spider webbed stocks that you could not tell from factory, they looked great they just did not have the ability to last, that I was looking for.
With hard use it is about impossible to keep the oil off of krylon indefintely. espeacially with an automatic, if you have any oil at all in that action after repeated firings, it is going to sling a little out, that is just the nature of the beast. allbeit a little it still will eventuallly get to the Krylon. Not so much with bolt action, although evetually those will start to tack up too. Just been my experience, milelage may vary
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