accuracy systems

[patrick kelly]

I am looking for advice concerning going to ACCURACY SYSTEMS for my mini-14 standard. I would like the mini-14 to be able to be able to handle repeated rounds in a combat situation if necessary and believe that the stock barrel, though accurate, would not be capable in a combat situation.
The following questions come to mind: .750 or .625 barrel?
Does the necessary machining of operating rod for .750 barrel reduce the dependability of the weapon?

Would the cyro treatment of stock barrel substitute for a thicker barrel? Is cyro treatment a good idea;any drawbacks?

Though I like the traditional look and feel of the standard wood stock, would a Ruger synthetic stock be a good choice for a defensive weapon? Can 30 rnd mags be used with Ruger synthetic stock? If not, is there an improved butt pad to replace the slippery plastic Ruger plate? Thanks for the help.



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[cajungeo]

Welcome aboard Pat.

Not sure which barrel dia would suit your needs, but both wood stocks, and synthetic stocks have been used by the U.S. Military. The newer ones seem to be synthetic. This is because the synthetic is lighter, so more ammo could be carried.

Ruger no longer makes 30 rnd magazines. Only 5 rnd and the famous 20 rnd mags. Their are some aftermarket 30 rnd mags. I have some PMI's, Pro-Mag makes both steel, and thermo-plastic 30 rnd mags. Their are others, but some are not that reliable. The stock shouldn't make any difference in accepting mags. Only a few have had to clean up a few burrs on a new stock. No big deal.

Some members have had their Ruger barrels Cryoed. They report no POI drift when barrel gets hot, and seems to be a little cooler. Also an increase in accuracy.

ASI does good work. You can use the advanced search feature, and many posts will come up based on your key words.

[steve4102]

I have an ASI Mini-30. Carl at ASI does do excellent work.

Personally, I wouldn't go with the expense of an ASI mini just for repeated firing in a "combat" situation. I think you would be better off with a cryo job (-$50) first. If that didn't turn your crank, then maybe a heavy barreled mini is in order. In that case, the larger the better.

[kwg020]

What series Mini do you have and is it a Ranch version? kwg

[handirifle]

Maybe shortening the barrel to 16" and/or the cryo treatment, both should be a big improvement in the areas you mention.

The Mini, in my opinion, is a 200yd max combat weapon, not because of accuracy, but the power of the 223/5.56. Of course this also applies to the AR's in my opinion as well. Sure it can wound someone farther away, but personally I don't want the opponent able to shoot, again, period.

That said, what kind of accuracy are you looking for from the mini, for combat?

The only improvements that would help barrel life, if THAT is your concern, is chrome lining, but the cryo treatment is the next best thing. A harder barrel will just flat last longer, and the cryo treatment, by way of condensing the molecules in the steel, has the same effect.

If your barrel is accurate, send it off to be treated and shoot it till it wears out, THEN maybe get an ASI barrel.

[Mickey1539]

I cured the smooth plastic butt plate problem by applying a piece of "Non Slip" adheisive material for wooden steps. It has a gritty surface. You can get a piece from the hardware store and cut a paper template to make a cutting pattern. Clean the plastic with alcohol and apply the "Non Slip." The "Non Slip" I have is black and most people don't even notice it. It works well.

Thanks, Mickey

[Mickey1539]

Cryo- Treat the barrel, keeps the barrel straight when getting hot.
Har-Bar, keeps the barrel stiff and helps to cool
John Mansen Muzzle Brake, helps dampen harmonics, also makes good mags.
Torque gas block screws
.042 diameter gas port bushing hole
Front and rear opperating rod bushings
Bed the metal support and screw holes in the stock. Bed the metal fore end.
Trigger job to reduce the pull
Non Slip adhesive tape for the plastic butt. Gritty tape from hardware store.

These should help your mini a lot. Thanks, Mickey

[Mickey1539]

Pat,
In my previous post I mentioned the opperating rod front and rear bushings. I should have said "buffers." The buffers help reduce the shock of the rod slaming into the front of the receiver and then back into the gas block housing. It will keep your Mini going longer and if you have a scope, it's a must. I killed a good scope before I added the buffers.
Thanks, Mickey

[planeoldguy]

Pat,
In my previous post I mentioned the opperating rod front and rear bushings. I should have said "buffers." The buffers help reduce the shock of the rod slaming into the front of the receiver and then back into the gas block housing. It will keep your Mini going longer and if you have a scope, it's a must. I killed a good scope before I added the buffers.
Thanks, Mickey

How do I do it, Where do I get them?

[steve4102]

How do I do it, Where do I get them?


http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=64587

http://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.com/mini_14_30_accessories.php


http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=219931&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/esearch.exe/search

[planeoldguy]

Thank You, One more thing for the list, I pick up my stainless ranch rifle today

[patrick kelly]

*Is cryo treatment as effective as a heavy barrel in maintaining accuracy when multiple rounds have been fired?
What is Har-Bar?
Where do I find recoil buffers?
Can I do bedding myself?
Friction tape is a good idea.
Thanks for your help!

[Mickey1539]

Hi Pat,
Cryo Treatment takes the stress out of the barrel and changes the molecular structure of the molecules. Go to Cryo-Pro's web site. At $35.00 it's the best thing you can do for any barrel. It keeps the barrel straight when it gets hot. It's also hundreds of dollers less than a heavy barrel.

The Har-Bar or the Accu-Strut is a support bar that is clamped to the underside of the barrel. It helps keep the barrel from sagging when hot and dampens the harmonics. They cost about $150.00 and work very well with a Cryo Treated barrel. There are many posts on this site about them. They both work well.

There are also posts about making recoil bufers on this site. Some guys use a shaved down Colt .45 ACP 1911 recoil buffer or a flat vacuum cleaner belt. They go on the face of the reciever with a hole for the recoil spring and on the gas block with a hole for the gas pipe (that goes into the opperating rod.) Just make sure they are not too thick. They can interfere with the case ejection and more importantly, the rotating lock-up of the bolt. They should be 1/16" thick max. The gas excaping from the gas port tube can burn up the buffer if it isn't heat resistant.

You can buy or make a gas port bushing that goes in between the barrel and the gas block. You remove the 4 screws that hold the gas block to the barrel and make a steel rod the same length and diameter as the original but drill a .042 diameter hole in the center of the new bushing. This will reduce the operating rod speed and eject you brass closer to you, instead of the next town. It will also help with your scope life. It decreases the recoil. You can buy a set of three bushings for about $15.00

I have added a John Mansen muzzle brake and this helps dampen the harmonics and increase accuracy. It cost about $20.00

The bedding I did was on the original wood stock. I removed the metal support that is held in place by the two screws on the sides of the stock. There are cut-outs on the inside of the stock for the metal support to fit into and hold the reciver in place. I had some space between the back edge of the support and the cut-out in the wood. This allowed the metal support to move backwards during the recoil and also elongated the holes for the two screws. I cut two thin strips of sheet metal or a tin can and pushed them into the space behind the support to stop the rearward motion. The tin strips were about 1/16" wide and ran from the top of the metal support to the bottom of the support. You can file them down after they are installed so that the trigger assembly will clear. After you have fit the metal strips, then remove the support and coat the sides of the suport with JB Weld ( a steel epoxy) but only coat the surfaces the contact the wood. Fill the screw holes in the stock with the JB, inside and outside. Replace the metal support while the JB is still wet, insert the tin shim strips that you cut from the tin can and replace the two screws. The JB should be squeezing out of the screw holes and around the metal support. Wipe the JB from all interior and exterior surfaces. Let this dry for 24 hours. This process will bond the metal support to the wood stock. The front end of the forearm has a metal end cap and you can put the JB weld on the wood under the cap and replace the cap to dry. Wipe the JB from all surfaces.

If you are skilled in fine metal working, then you can do a trigger job to reduce the pull of the trigger. If your'e not sure, then send it to GunDoc.

The "Non Skid" adhesive tape can be purchased at a hardware store. It's made to put on wooden painted steps to prevent slipping. It has grit bonded the the surface and a self adhesive backer. You can cut a paper template to fit the butt plate to use as a pattern to cut the "Non Slip". Punch a small hole for the screws when mounting.

The total cost is about $220.00 and your accuracy hot or cold should be very good. Keep your Mini clean and lubricated and don't abuse it. Rapid fire of too many rounds will deterioriate any barrel.

Hope this helps, Mickey

[handirifle]

How hard is it to remove the barrel from a Mini to ship it off?

[Mickey1539]

I shipped the barrel, receiver and muzle brake all together as one unit. Pack it in a heavy duty cardboard tube with a lot of packing and it will be fine. You can call the guys at Cryo-Pro and they can advise. I also sent 2 knife blades with the barrel.

Thanks, Mickey

[handirifle]

I shipped the barrel, receiver and muzle brake all together as one unit. Pack it in a heavy duty cardboard tube with a lot of packing and it will be fine. You can call the guys at Cryo-Pro and they can advise. I also sent 2 knife blades with the barrel.

Thanks, Mickey

OK was wondering cause they say to remove the barrel before shipping. Are they threaded in?

[Mickey1539]

I don't know. I think they are threaded into the receiver but I never removed the barrel.

Thanks, Mickey