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missouriman
08-25-2008, 11:40
Hey guys I was messing around with one of my minis (cleaning it ) when i started to really look ate the trigger, I seen the first and second stage there and i came up with sliding a piece of zip tie between the base of the top caught or what ever its called and then that held the top one off and the lower one still works but with alot less pull , has any one done anything like that and would it work ??? I haventtryed shooting it yet so i was hopeing some one could tell me about it thanks

missouriman
08-25-2008, 13:44
here is what im talking about see the top hook , if u pin it back the pull is alot lighter , will this work with live rounds???

kwg020
08-25-2008, 16:31
I'm sure it will for a little bit maybe, but will it be safe and not go off at the slightest jarr or touch of the trigger? kwg

missouriman
08-25-2008, 16:49
I'm sure it will for a little bit maybe, but will it be safe and not go off at the slightest jarr or touch of the trigger? kwg



What got me really looking at it is my mini 14 6.8 top arm wasnt touching , unlike the mini 14 223 , I dont think it will jar loose as the bottom arm is holding really tight , I guess it would be the second stage part that is

missouriman
08-25-2008, 17:01
ok here is a few pics hope this clears up what im talking about

missouriman
08-25-2008, 17:02
the first 2 pics has the zip tie piece in it and the bottom 2 dont

JasonAC556
08-25-2008, 17:38
That "top part" you are wedging back out of contact is the secondary sear. That is what catches the hammer and hols it until you release the trigger.

In simple terms, this will cause the hammer to follow the bolt home which could cause the rifle to fire with the bolt out of battery. This is a very unsafe thing to do.

Do not try it with live ammo. It is not a very good idea.

missouriman
08-25-2008, 17:43
That "top part" you are wedging back out of contact is the secondary sear. That is what catches the hammer and hols it until you release the trigger.

In simple terms, this will cause the hammer to follow the bolt home which could cause the rifle to fire with the bolt out of battery. This is a very unsafe thing to do.

Do not try it with live ammo. It is not a very good idea.


Thanks for the info, I wasnt sure and didnt want to try it if i couldnt get any one say it would work,
the pic on the bottom right side is what it looks like with out nothing in it , it dont look to me like it is caughting on the top unless it doese on the recoil .

JasonAC556
08-25-2008, 17:51
Thanks for the info, I wasnt sure and didnt want to try it if i couldnt get any one say it would work,
the pic on the bottom right side is what it looks like with out nothing in it , it dont look to me like it is caughting on the top unless it doese on the recoil .
That's exactly how it works.

When you fire a round the bolt pushes the hammer back to be caught by the secondary sear (top hook). The Secondary sear holds the hammer in the cocked position until you release pressure on the trigger. That is when the primary sear (bottom hook) catches the hammer and holds it until you pull the trigger again.

Your sliding in a piece of zip tie in disables the secondary sear. This is a very unsafe condition and could result in many bad things.

missouriman
08-25-2008, 17:58
JasonAC556 thanks for the help i took it out of both of my minis lol dont want to become Elmore Fud lol, well i guess ill just have to sent the trigger off to get the pull wieght lighten up some , I wish the put adjustable single stage triggers in minis
any way thanks for the help

NotSoFast
08-27-2008, 08:46
I would rather a gunsmith, preferably GunDoc, work on my trigger so that I know that it is safe to operate.

Mini_Envy
08-31-2008, 00:18
Yeah I could be wrong but I think that mod would make your mini 14 a full auto. The rear sear needs to catch the hammer so it doesn't fire a second time on one trigger pull.

markw76
08-31-2008, 00:43
The most that should be done is polish the hook surfaces without changing any angles and without removing any "meat", just the tops of any machine or grind marks. Unless you've done this before and have the right tools, it is best left to a 'smith. If that isn't enough, there are aftermarket hammer springs that you can install yourself if you are familiar with assembly and disassembly of the trigger group.

On my M1A, just smoothing up the hook surfaces made an immense improvement, without making it unsafe.
Yeah I could be wrong but I think that mod would make your mini 14 a full auto. The rear sear needs to catch the hammer so it doesn't fire a second time on one trigger pull. It will, and not in a controllable manner. I don't like to provide conversion instructions, but since it's out, doing stuff like this to the trigger group will result in the rifle firing until it runs out of ammo. I have my doubts about the ability of the primary sear to reliably catch the hammer to stop the rifle from running away until it's empty.

Mini_Envy
08-31-2008, 10:21
The most that should be done is polish the hook surfaces without changing any angles and without removing any "meat", just the tops of any machine or grind marks. Unless you've done this before and have the right tools, it is best left to a 'smith. If that isn't enough, there are aftermarket hammer springs that you can install yourself if you are familiar with assembly and disassembly of the trigger group.

On my M1A, just smoothing up the hook surfaces made an immense improvement, without making it unsafe.
It will, and not in a controllable manner. I don't like to provide conversion instructions, but since it's out, doing stuff like this to the trigger group will result in the rifle firing until it runs out of ammo. I have my doubts about the ability of the primary sear to reliably catch the hammer to stop the rifle from running away until it's empty.

Isn't that how an M14 works? I was pretty sure that if you had a true M14 when you turn the selector switch it holds the rear sear back. So I definitely wouldn't do this mod.

markw76
08-31-2008, 11:09
It doesn't hold the secondary back. The connector link on the side trips the primary when the oprod is fully forward. The switch just keeps the connector link from tripping it so the trigger group operates normally. The secondary operates so when you release the trigger, the weapon will stop firing.