DPMS A2 birdcage?

[Narcisist]

http://www.m1surplus.com/dpms%20a2%20brake%2099231000198.htm

http://www.m1surplus.com/images/ar15_a2_brake_99231000198_add.gif

I'm thinking about buying this for my mini. I know it will need 1/2 - 28 tpi threads put on the barrell, but I'm having a bit of a problem. . .No local gunsmiths want to do it to my gun. Some crap about having to take the barrell out of the reciever, and not thinking that the reciever would hold up to the stress (blah, blah, blah). I know gundoc can do it, but I have no idea how much it would cost to ship it to him, or even how to do it. Any ideas?

[faawrenchbndr]

Contact Gundoc...
http://www.greatwestgunsmithing.com/ (http://www.greatwestgunsmithing.com/)

He did this one after shortening the barrel.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c341/faawrenchbndr/RanchMini14.jpg

[Narcisist]

how much does it usually cost to ship a firearm?

[steve4102]

how much does it usually cost to ship a firearm?

That kinda depends on far you are shipping it and it's weight. I paid UPS $18.00 to ship my mini back to Ruger.

[kwg020]

Brownell's has the 1/2 by 28 die. It's a little expensive ($30.00) but it is not hard to do by yourself. I did my previous mini myself and made a flash hider out of a choate M-14 look alike by drilling then tapping ($28.00) the inside of it at 1/2 by 28. It looked pretty good but I ended up having ASI put a heavy barrel on it. Do the math, Gundoc may be cheaper if you don't ever plan on putting another flash hider on. When I did mine I did not know about Gundoc. I like what he did to wrenchbenders. kwg

[Narcisist]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=638&title=AR-15%2fM16+FLASH+SUPPRESSOR+TAP+%26+DIE

I've tapped before, but I've never used a die. I would be willing to try, if the price is too high for shipping. I just don't know if I have the necessary experience/tools to do it.

[kwg020]

Find a way to position and lock your barrel in a vice with the muzzle pointed straight up. I used wooden blocks around the barrel with half a hole in each block. You do not have to take the barrell off of the receiver. I suggest you take the stock off of the receiver. Lower the die over the end and turn. Make sure you have a die handle you can put some torque on and keep it lined up as you move down the barrel especially at the start. I used some cutting oil to keep the threads clean while it cut. I indexed the flash hider by filing off the end of the barrel so when I turned the flash hider on the barrel, it tightend with the sights straight up and down. You will probably have to recrown the end of the barrel if you file it down to index the flash hider or sight. It's not hard work. Just go slow and steady.

Shortening the barrel and putting on a flash hider did not help the accuracy of my series 181 mini. No matter what I did to the barrel, it was not accurate. That's why it now has an ASI barrel on it. Now with all of this in mind, do the math and think about what Gundoc can do for you. If you don't have the tools and you have to buy them, the dollars will add up quickly. If your Mini is a good shooter and you just want to make it more practical, hopefully more accurate and look nicer, I think Gundoc is your guy. If you just have to do it your self like I did, be prepared to spend some money to do it right. kwg

[Shakey]

kwg020- Are you saying that the die started on the Mini barrel without having to turn it down to proper diameter first? Just wondering. I had my muzzle threaded by a gunsmith (friend) and he did it in a lathe. Also recrowned. The other thing too, is that barrels are not always concentric and the bore can be off to the outside diameter of the barrel. Just applying threads would also make the brake off center to the bore. I thought I'd mention it, hoping it'd be helpfull to someone.

[rutro]

Howdy all, if you are interested in doing your own work threading the barrel for a flash hider/muzzle brake check here for the proper technique, this is an excellent set of instructions, http://www.preciseinnovationsllc.com/GunFile/ThrInstr.html.
They talk about a TAT (threading alignment tool) and it is absolutly necessary to do this job right. I bought mine from Brownells at the same time I ordered the A1 flash hider, here's a link, http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=22229&title=AR-15+BARREL+THREAD+ALIGNMENT+TOOL.
It's not an easy job, but it is very "doable" if you are good with your hands and follow the instructions above.
The people at Precise Inovations sell a "kit" but you can order the same tools at Brownells for less money and it is every bit as good as the kit.

[Narcisist]

Those instructions are pretty clear and understandable. I'm ready to order the parts right now. My father-in-law has a tap and die set so I think that his handle should work so all I should need is these.

246-000-031
AR-15 Barrel Thread Alignment Tool $13.38

080-598-529
AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Die $21.97

This is the only question I have that I'm still worried about;

Are you saying that the die started on the Mini barrel without having to turn it down to proper diameter first?

[Shakey]

You definitely better look in a machinist's book and find out what diameter you have to have for the 1/2" x 28 thread. I'm not saying that you can't run the die on the Mini-14 barrel as is, I don't know. I do know that if the o.d. of the barrel is too big, you'll have your hands full! The die should start on the face of the barrel with some pressure, but not excessive. For $80 ( I think that's what he charges), plus shipping ,you can send the stripped receiver/barrel to gundoc and know it's going to be done correctly. Or, if you screw it up doing it yourself, you can send it to him, have him cut an inch or inch-and-a-half off of it and thread it. Hope this helps you decide.

[p35bhp55]

For the price of the tools, I'd send it in. There are some people who really need to do things themselves and I respect their efforts, but I'm going to ship mine off when I finally make up my mind what to do, and I spend 50 hours a week working in a machine shop. Near as I can figure gun bbls aren't really round or straight and the holes aren't always in the middle. Experience can make it look right even when it isn't, so I'll pay for it. I'm still fooling with an old 10-22 bbl, if I ever get it decnt looking I'll post a pic. If not it's headed for the chop saw!

[rutro]

Narcisist asked;
This is the only question I have that I'm still worried about;


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakey http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/images/buttons2/viewpost.gif (http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?p=414941#post414941)
Are you saying that the die started on the Mini barrel without having to turn it down to proper diameter first?



If you will read the instructions from Precise Innovations all the way through you will see that it's not necessary. I threaded mine and it's a stainless ranch. It's not an easy job, but it is a "doable" project.
Unless your barrel has been cut down and recrowned you will have no problems starting the die if you follow the instructions, I printed them up so I could refer to them if needed. As long as the die handle in your Father-in-laws kit will hold an 1 1/2'' die body you should be good.
You should also check the Brownells catalog and price the A2 birdcage muzzle brake, seems like it was less than the advertized price in the ad from M1Surplus. You need to figure in the extra shipping charge too.
Since the Dad-in-law has a kit he probably has some experiance also. Get him to help/supervise and possibly oil for you as you turn the die handle. You don't say if the mini is stainless or blue? The stainless is very hard. You will need to go slowly for the first pass and I mean like turning the die only a 16th. of a turn starting then back off to clear, then a 16th. and back off. You will be able to tell when it cuts and when it stops, when it stops you back it off as much as you cut, if you try to force it to cut to far you may chip a tooth on the die. It's just like tapping out a hole. You can't force the tap either, you have to back it out and clear the cut. Use plenty oil and take it easy and there's nothing to it.....
but to do it.;)

[Narcisist]

I just didn't see in the instructions if it said it was specifically for the mini or not. So I wasn't sure and I didn't want to make any assumptions, but if you say you've done this to your mini, then that's answered. Also, mine's a 580 series so I don't know for sure if the barrel dimensions are close enough to the same at the muzzle.

[kwg020]

I can only tell you I did start the die without lathing down the end of the barrel. On my die the threads are set back on the start side and with the design of the end of the Mini 14 I didn't have any problems getting the die started. I have wondered if a 9/16 die would work easier (I'm sure it would) but based on miking the barrel (.560) I'm afraid the threads won't be deep enough to hold a flash hider well. (9/16 is .575) kwg

[rutro]

Kwg020 you hit that nail right square dead on the head. The only problem you might have Narcisist is getting the die opened up enough. Once you get the die look at the small screw that lets you open it up. Make sure you have a small screwdriver that fits this well. Narrow enough to follow it into the die body without messing up the threads and the blade thick enough to allow you to turn it without wallowing the slot out. This will allow you to open up the die wide enough to make that first pass cleanly. This is what takes the O.D. of the barrel down so that you can make the threads deeper on the second and third pass for the brake to fit properly. From what I understand the 580 serries has the same barrel demensions as minis have always had. If you are realy in doubt check it with dial caliper and see if it's .560'' just behind the muzzle and in front of the front sight, then you'll know.

[Narcisist]

Hey, I know I've been away for a long, long time. Had some serious problems in my life, but things have sorta settled down now so I'm getting back into the swing of things.

Anyway, I did do this mod. With very little experiance and I pulled it off quite nicely if I do say so myself. I was able to get the die started just by loosening the adjustment screw all the way, and just cut the threads with a lot of lubricant and elbow grease, and then again, and again tightening the screw on the die a little each time.

I just wanted to thank (in a not so timely fashion), everyone for their help on this project. I did take step by step pictures as I went, but somewhere between selling stuff to pay for a funeral, (never any guns, not even an option) and then moving, I lost them. But once you get started it is pretty simple.

[bwh]

Gents, this process really has me thinking. I have two Mini's I was planning to hand over to my gunsmith to have muzzle brakes installed on, but if I can do this myself I'll be saving a chunk of cash.

Let me understand this: using the methods described or linked to above the outside diameter (OD) of a standard Mini barrel does not have to be reduced first. The die does all the cutting/reducing necessary. Is this correct?

Also, how does this process deal with the small 'step' that is machined into the first 1/8" or so of all standard Mini barrels (all that I've seen, anyway).

In cutting stainless with a die, what is a recommended commonly available lubricant? I've read everything from kerosene to bacon grease on other (non-firearms) forums.

When I look at the cost of the tools from Brownells for me it's a no-brainer. $30 in tools and some time and effort vs. $100 or so per barrel at a local gunsmith.

Thanks in advance!

[pharroutpc]

Yay! :) I couldnt be happier this thread was dug back up. This will solve my problem too with cost being too high for having it done by a local and the cost of the brake which is steep. Dont hafta worry much about the irons as I will be using dots and scopes only. Thank you thank you!! Though I do have one ?Q? Will the die just bottom out at the right depth or is there a chance of cutting too deep? Ah well.....I assume all will go well....Thanks again! :D

[Narcisist]

For lubricant, I just back off the die and put a drop or two of gun oil every quarter turn. And for depth I just measured the inside of the flash hider to so I knew where the limit was, just go the same distance as the hider is deep and the washer gave me clearance. The hardest part was cranking that die a quarter turn at a time because stainless is hard stuff. The biggest pain for me was getting the sight off, because that bugger didn't want to budge and I was so tempted to get mean, but I didn't want to mar my barrel. I can't remember if I did this before or after the threads, but I also lobbed about .25" off the barrel (good idea if you cut too many threads, but don't count on that happening) and re crowned it since I was already cutting into the barrel, it seemed like a good idea. I still have the tools too, and don't really need them anymore, so. . .

325-100-185
#48 Die Stock $9.47

246-000-031
AR-15 Barrel Thread Alignment Tool $13.38

080-598-529
AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Die $21.97

If someone wants these, PM me for price.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2448/dsci0287an9.jpg

[rugmar]

There is some good info here about threading a barrel. Thanks guys!

[Narcisist]

I think that my next step with this rifle is to guncoat it, but I haven't decided on a color yet.