Neck Sizing

[RonJ]

Hi,
As you all know I'm new to the Mini-14, as seen in my post about aftermarket stocks.
My next question concerns case sizing. Any problems with neck sizing only or does the Mini require full length sizing for reliability? TIA!

[kid_couteau]

From what I have read any semi auto firearm requires full length resizing to shoot reliably

All right for bolt actions tho

Kid

[RonJ]

I was guessing the same! Was hoping to try out some experimental rounds with my old Lee Loader. Thanks.

[steve4102]

When a round is fired in a "bolt" gun the brass expands to the size and shape of the chamber. It then springs back ever so slightly to allow for extraction. By resizing just the neck you now have a nice fit between the brass and the chamber.

Things are a little different in an auto-loader. When the round is fired it expands to the size and shape of the chamber, but because it is being extracted during the expansion process it becomes longer than the chamber. Full length resizing is then required to bump the shoulder back for a proper fit.

[stoney]

semi auto's also recomend small base dies. i "think" you'd be o.k with regular dies so long as you full lenth them.

[Shakey]

Never neck size for an autoloader. It's fine for a bolt action, BUT after two or three shots you'll have to full length resize the bras or they won't chamber. Some Bolt actions prefer a neck-sized case, others don't.....you'll have to try it and see. I've never seen enough difference in accuracy out of my Swift & .222 to neck size, even though it is easier. I full length size my 25-06 and the load I'm using shoots right around 5/16" for 3 shots at 100 yds. (sporter barrel only good for three shots in repetition before it starts throwing them). As for A smal base full length sizing die vs. straight full length, some chambers will take the straight full length & others require the small base. I automatically use a small base sizer for a semi, that way I know the brass will chamber. But my brother-in-law just uses a standard full length die for his Mini & AR and has no problems. Go Figure...........

[tri70]

Some of the gun makers suggest using once fired brass from that gun for best results. I read an article on the Nosler 270wssm and the factory Win loads did not group better than 2'' unless handloads and necksizing was used on the brass.

[Shakey]

I have no way of knowing if the guys posting are experienced or novice, but even when using the full length resizing die, it should be set-up for a particular chamber- in a bolt action for example you'll get less stretching & better accuracy when once-fired cases from a given gun are lubed, shoulder smoked, and then adjust the die to just touch the shoulder, while allowing the case to chamber and the bolt to close with relative ease. The cases are formed to that particular chamber, less as little resizing as needed, making them tailored to the chamber= better accuracy, longer case life. More than one gun chamber for the same die? Sometimes, sometimes not. Sure, you can full length resize brass for two different rifles so that they chamber in both, but in doing so, you might be sizing too much for one of the chambers.You follow me? As I said earlier, neck size vs. full length depends on the gun in question. The only thing set in stone is not using a neck size die for an autoloader. You're asking for chambering problems. And, again, most autolader rifles are not accurate enough to begin with to warrant alot of fussing with primer pockets, etc. There are exceptions, I'm sure, but I'm talking in general.

[steve4102]

Shakey, When I set up my FL dies for my bolt guns, I do what is called Partial Full Length sizing. This method produces a better fit and a more accurate round then when I neck size. Here is a run down on Partial Full Length sizing.

1. Put the Shell Holder in the press and raise the ram.

2. Screw the Full Length(FL) Die into the press so it is about a "nickel's thickness" above the Shell Holder.

3. Lube a "Fired" case (walls and inside the neck) and squash it.

4. Remove the Lube and try closing the bolt on it in the chamber.

5. If the bolt closes with no resistance, screw the FL Die into the press about 1/8-1/4 turn and repeat steps 3 & 4.

6. As you feel the resistance begin, slow down how much you screw the FL Die into the press so you are at about 1/16 of a turn, or "Fine Tuning". At some point you will not be able to close the bolt and you are extremely close to having the FL Die in the proper position.

NOTE: The reason for this is because the FL Die has begun Resizing the Case-walls down to the Pressure Ring. As it does so, the Case-body lengthens slightly which in turn moves the Case-shoulder slightly forward. Then as the "Fine Tuning" continues the Case-shoulder makes contact with the FL Die and is moved slightly reward(or slightly shortens the Case-head to Case-shoulder dimension).

7. Stop when there is a slight bit of resistance when closing the bolt on the empty case. You now have a "slight crush fit" for the case in that specific chamber, or Zero Headspace.

8. Once you get it where you want it, take some masking tape or a black marker and put a Witness Mark where the FL Die Lock Ring is positioned to hold the FL Die in this position. Loosen the FL Die and return the Lock Ring to align with the Witness Mark and sung up the Set-Screw.

Screw the FL Die back into the press and try squashing another case. It should have the same resistance as the previous one. If not, you need to re-adjust the Lock Ring so it does. But you are extremely close to where you want it, so make very small changes at this point.

[Shakey]

steve 4102- That's what I described in my last post, or at least tried too. I'm not as well versed as some. As for some resistance on closing the bolt, I erred there, in my description. I don't like a whole lot of resistance, just enough, well you know where I wanna go with it........you have to get a feel for it. I still like to smoke the shoulder the first time around with a new gun. That way I can see, as well as feel, what's going on. The shoulder smoking is defintely a better way to set-up a die in the autoloader, since you can't really feel anything, I think you'll agree with that.

[steve4102]

I would consider myself Not "very well versed" as well. As you can see, the step by step on how to PFL is in different type. That's because I copied it from another sight. If I had to write that myself I doubt if anyone would be able to understand it.

Yes, I agree. Auto-loaders are completely different animals.

[Shakey]

And here I thought you pulled that from the database in the back of your brain!!!!!!!!! I was looking around and found a good piece about military type semi's and reloading for them. It's in the reloading forum under Links, then scroll down to the item of interest & click on it. Ya' know coming to this forum and looking at the posts makes me realize how much I knew and have either taken for granted or forgotten, when I make a statement. Started reloading when I was 16, will be 57 in less than a month. Started out the the old Lee Loader for .243 Win. I can still remember hammering away trying to size the cases, etc. and my mother hollering "What are you banging on?!?!?". I acutally quit shooting for a number of years due to health and bad eyesight, but found, thru some encouragement from by brother-in-law, with some adjustments in my methods of shooting a handgun, I can still do a decent job. Have to shoot fairly fast, using a revolver and in DA only. Shooting and reloading have been a Major part of my life....You have no idea what that entails, and now I'm just happy to be able to go out and bang away for an hour or two. But, I digress........

[steve4102]

Hey Shakey, Maybe this article on loading for the M14 may interest you!

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/m14.html

[Shakey]

My HEAD HURTS................Interesting, but I've never really encountered any problems with just the normal method of seating primers in the .223 for hunting. plinking, etc. Have you? I do remember many years ago I had some military brass that had some high bottom primer pockets. Not much, but enough to let the primer stand proud. I threw them as mil. .223 brass was dirt cheap back then. Unless I had 500-1,000 of them that were bad, I don't think I'd go thru the trouble of reaming them. Probably be better off selling them for scrap and buying a new batch......I'm going astray again.......I really need to get some new drugs!!! Start a new thread about something else steve.