Checked Gas Block but ?

[Shakey]

I printed out a couple of stickies on gapping the gas block and free floating. Had my mini-14 torn down to clean so I checked the gas block for fit to the barrel, with the op rod, recoil spring, etc. out of the gun. With the bottom part of the gas block up against the stock there's approx. a .004"-.005" clearance between the barrel & block. But, if I push UP on the gas block, it'll touch the barrel with no upward deflection of the barrel. I'm figuring that pushing up on the gas block is where it'll end up when the top half of the block is installed and and the screws are torqued, since this in essence would pull the lower half of the block up . Is this assumption correct? If so, I have a pretty good fit vertically and horizontally it's not bad either. So, I'm not deflecting the barrel in any direction to any great extent. The other question is I read here, somewhere , that "free-floating" should be done with the op rod in battery for all to be in alignment. If this is so, then Should you check the fit of the gas block to the bbl/rec. with the op rod, spring, etc. installed?
Thanks for any help!

[P-Shooter]

Shakey, I have been investigating this also, I have a synthetic stock, I am beginning to suspect that the effect of the stock on the gas block could be different for wood versus the synthetic stocks. I did what you describe, with everything out, including the SS insert in the stock for the operating rod, I also checked the centering of the stock on the barrel and the clearences etc. My Mini was not exactly centered so I worked on it to get it centered. There is no undo pressure on the gas block now. I shot it this week and found no great improvement. Now I am going the other way and try some pressure at the gas block. The synthetic stock seems to be pretty flexible, maybe too much so. The Mini is my first auto, most of my accuracy work has been with bolt actions, but it is getting interesting.

[rutro]

Hey guys I think the gas block can contribute to those fliers when not quite square with the rest of the world, so to speak. The way I understand it you want the gas block to fit so as to put no presure on the barrel, either up/down or sidewise. You need to check it with the stock liner installed and to make adjustments remove it and take a dremmel or a file and take the wood or plastic if it's a synthetic off from the end where the "U" shaped peice fits. It's probably best to do this before bedding the stock and I've bedded the end peice myself after doing the barrel float. Do this first then bed the stock and get the trigger lightened up and you'll have the rifle shooting much tighter. An interesting read is about how to set up a National Match M-1/M-14. To do that they pay special attention to the gas block, bedding, hand guards, and trigger. Are we haveing fun yet?;)

[Shakey]

Thanks for the advice rutro! I see where the accuracy guys are going with this. But ya' know I've been thinking about it and since the gas block touches the barrel,albeit perfectly if it's been tuned, it still affects the barrel harmonics. And from what I gather it is one of several things that affect lack of accuracy. I'm going to play with it a bit more, but am having GunDoc do the trigger and my local buddy is threading the barrel for a brake and target crown. I'll see what this gets me when I get it put back together and let you guys know. Might be awhile though. It's cold here so shooting groups is slow. Gotta pick your days. I'll be happy with consistent 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" 5-shot groups. That's all I need for what I want to do with the gun, but getting it is the challenge.