Mini 14 Muzzle Brakes?

[rugerdaddy]

Any opinions on the best muzzle brake for the mini 14 ranch? I am familiar with the John Masen, the Eagle, Precision Metalworks, Choate (I've seen two models- one distinctly longer), and the Black Warrior (looks like the Masen- a copy?). I've had one recommendation for the Masen. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.:unsure: :confused:

[Smoker420]

I have a John Masen on my mini currently and I am very pleased (for now) I have been looking into having the barrel cut and threded to attach one of the ak style brakes. I saw a choate on a mini at the local gun shop looked pretty sweet. Putting the Masen brake on my mini reduced group size from around 3to 4 inches to about 1 to 2 inches at 100 yards it made groups improve for sure!! :)

[rugerdaddy]

Thanks. That makes two who tell me the Masen is good. Not crazy about the looks or length (5.5"), but if it's the best I'll go with it. Anyone else?

[Jaybird]

Kurtskustom firearms has quite a large selection of brakes/flash parts. some appear to be quite good. I don't have any experience with them however. His limiter brake appears to be one that would be very quiet when compared with most of the others. anything that protects the ears would be great.http://www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/page/page/29585.htm.

[gundoc]

I prefer the Smith brake and the Shrewd Varmint brake for the mini. Both require threaded barrels, but the amount of mass provided by these parts is significant and harmonics are reduced. For pin-on's, look for something heavy to achieve the same goal. The more inertial mass a brake or flash hider possesses the better the potential accuracy increase. Make sure the pin-on brake or flash hider is on tight. I like to gently squeeze the rear of the part in a padded vice and make it tight enough to require a mallet for installation. A loose one will create additional vibrations.

[gunrun45]

+1 for the smith enterprise muzzle break. Gundoc installed one on my mini-30 for me after setting the front sight back.
Here is why I chose it.
-you can always change it to another type of otherwise commonly available breaks in teh same caliber.
-you can alsways remove it and put a thread protector on if you decide against a break altogether.
-its a higher qualtiy fit to the barrel and in my opinion provides better results after reading the many other evaluations for muzzle breaks already posted here (use the search feature to read them too)
-CA law is very particular on exactly WHAT a flash supressor is. Most of the slip over or pin on types fit into this definition. It CAN NOT have any slits in it ANYWHERE. Holes only. The law states that it can in no way reduce the ammount of muzzle flash... that's open for interpretation and having the ready option of removing a troubling feature can be benificial if the "interpretaion" changes over time. Don't believe the local "expert" at the gun shop (he gets his infor from the same places you do) that tells you that because its packaged as a "muzzle break" you woun't get arrested. Read the law here to see for yourself. http://www.ag.ca.gov/firearms/
It will take checking several different sections of the page but you will figure it out.

-It provides a more "finished" look that looks better in my opinion ;)

Good luck whith what ever you decide.

[rugerdaddy]

-CA law is very particular on exactly WHAT a flash supressor is

This is an important point I forgot to mention in my original post. Thanks to all for the good info.

[p35bhp55]

"you can alsways remove it and put a thread protector on if you decide against a break altogether."
I went from an old CAR 15 hider to a slick bbl, (no sight) and seem to be doing as well or even a bit better. I had the hider brazed to the front sight collar after I cut off the blade, then turned the whole mess down and pined it on. It looked M14ish but made the gun too long and heavier then I wanted. I really want the 16 style hider like my GB, but nobody here seems to use them. Is this a legal issue? Arkansas doesn't care about what you put on your bbl.

[rugerdaddy]

I really want the 16 style hider like my GB, but nobody here seems to use them. Is this a legal issue? Arkansas doesn't care about what you put on your bbl.

By "hider" I assume you mean flash supressor. They're legal in most states, I believe, but not here in California. Although, we can use a muzzle brake.

[pbrktrt]

i have an eagle ss brake/hider ( whatever is pc ) i am quite pleased with it so far. it has a pin & set screw to anchor & after approx 400 rounds has not budged. i used blue loctite on set screw & thin coat on the barrel where they met. i have heard stories of them launching downrange although. imo on my mini-30 it is a good looking & functional addition. shaved an inch or better off groups compared to stock setup. it's under 50$ & seems well made.

[p35bhp55]

If I do the flash hider again I will want to thread the bbl. and either cut off or thread the pin groove. I do some of my own work but have not removed a mini bbl. and will prolly send it to Gundoc. It has occurred to me that a threaded flash hider with a recess cut in the back could be used to lock in a bbl. sleeve and torque the bbl. I need to make up my old mind tho, if I want the gun to be handy, or am I trying to build it into a full size rifle. Maybe I just need a third Mini!!

[timlt]

+1 for the smith enterprise muzzle break.

+2 for the Smith brake. Gundoc put one on my Mini-14, pics available on my Mini in the gallery:

http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=54123


This brake significantly reduces flyers on my Mini. It's like, my Mini (with the bedding, the trigger job, and the stabilization provided by the Ultimak rail) without the brake can shoot 1" groups, but there will be a LOT of flyers, and you never know when one is going to take off on you. And it's too much: sometimes the flyers can be 3" to 5" or more wide. Even in a plinker rifle, for my taste, that is just not acceptable to have the rifle be that much out of my control. But with the Smith brake on, the rifle continues to shoot 1" groups, but now much more consistently, the flyers are DRASTICALLY reduced.

There are things I don't like about the brake. I've written in another thread that it is a pain in some ways, because first, I have to use loctite to keep the brake tightly on my gun (otherwise, it shoots loose while you're shooting, and that kills your accuracy. But the minute you add the loctite, now it's very difficult to get the brake back off the rifle for cleaning, and you NEED to take it off (at least, you should take it off every few shooting sessions, because crud builds up around your muzzle and that too can affect your accuracy). So there are some downsides, not just of the Smith, but of ANY threaded brake. And of course there's the extra noise from the report that's directed toward the shooter or sideways toward other shooters.

Right now, all things considered, I think the Smith is still the best solution. Believe me, I've researched a LOT of options, but I just cannot find a better way to keep my flyers under control for the moment. It's possible that, when Accustrut comes out, maybe I'll install one and find that I won't need the brake anymore. If so, voila! Problem solved. But I'm not counting on that. What I'm doing at present to minimize cleaning hassle is, I just screw on the brake as tight as I can get it with hand tools, and then check it 4 or 5 times during a long shooting session, sort of like cinching up a saddle, just to ensure it's still tight. This keeps it tight, but still allows me to get it off fairly easily for cleaning when done.

[gunrun45]

timlt: I had the same problem with my smith break on my mini-30. I think we might have even talked about it once before. I fixed it by adjusting the break so that it was in the "up" position. Then I tightened the thrust nut tight against the break instead of trying ot use it as a threaded washer. It worked after I put a little muscle into it. I fired about 200+ rounds and it hasn't moved at all.

[100W_Warlock]

I have the Mason muzzle break/flash hider combo on my Mini-14 and like the looks alot and it improves the groups enough to justify the purchase. ;)

I put on the unit myself and did my own barrel chop. (the raw barrel is 15. inches and the break/hider brings it upto 17.5 inches) I might go for a 14.5" chop later on and see if I can't get the OAL down to just barely 16.5".

That, or just install the black warrior setup, which has the nicer M1/M14 style front sight.

[gundoc]

Be sure it's permanently attached or else it doesn't count as barrel length. I'm sure you did, but just a heads up for anyone unsure on that point.

Doc

[rugerdaddy]

Be sure it's permanently attached or else it doesn't count as barrel length. I'm sure you did, but just a heads up for anyone unsure on that point.

Doc
Hey! Get back to work on my rifle! I didn't authorize you to waste time on this forum! :o
Well, it's Christmas, so I suppose it's OK just today. But, it's also OK for you to work on my rifle if you're in the mood....<_<

Forget it. Take some time off. Merry Christmas! :)

p.s. is it ready, yet?