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timlt
11-15-2006, 04:20
You've heard of bipolar disorder: victims suffer from swings between two polar opposite and unhealthy emotional states, mania and depression.

Apparently some Mini's also have a type of bipolar disorder in the area of accuracy. To be more precise, some of us have noticed that even with an accurized Mini, you can swing wildly and unpredictably between two opposite extremes of accuracy on the one hand, and massive inaccuracy or "frequent flyers" on the other hand, so that your resulting target shows a "bimodal pattern" of grouping.

This is paradoxical. On the one hand, you can sometimes shoot highly accurate, sub MOA groups from an accurized Mini that will rival a bolt gun. But on the other hand, within the same shooting session and often within the same string of shots, you will also get groups that are wildly inconsistent and where the point-of-impact (POI) is WAY off--from 3 to 15 inches or more--from your zeroed sights and established point-of-aim (POA). The end result is, you'll often see two clusters of shots on your target: one being roughly where the POI EQUALS the POA (when the shots fall where you aimed them), the other being a looser but still noticeable grouping of the flyers that occurs when the shots go repeatedly astray from your point of aim. Sometimes you can shoot small clusters of three or four shots in a good group, and then you get a flyer. Other times, you may find it alternating every other shot, with first a good shot, then a flyer, then a good shot, etc.

I have noticed this pattern in my own Mini. In another thread, where I traced the process of gradually trying to improved the accuracy of my new Mini (http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=53855 ), I noted this pattern. After Gundoc did his excellent work to accurize my Mini, as I noted in the thread, the rifle was shooting better than ever. Since the mods, I have been able to shoot in every range session several groups of 3 to 4 consecutive shots that average just over an inch. That was the good news. But the bad news, which I also noted in that thread, was that I was still having this "bimodal pattern" when I factored in larger groups.

A number of other folks on this forum, including Kkina, have told me that they too experience this bimodal pattern of grouping, even with accurized Minis that they are otherwise happy with and consider to be excellent rifles. And I would expect that some form of this problem, in varying degrees, afflicts a very large number of Mini's out there. While all the mods that we commonly do on our rifles are useful and necessary, there must still be some common issue in the rifles that is not widely known about yet, and that is causing the behavior. Some speculate that there may be some movement in the gas block causing the bimodal pattern, and have experimented with bedding the gas block, but from a quick search and review of threads on this subject, I have not seen any comprehensive solutions that have diagnosed the common problem and found a definite cure yet.

I'm curious to learn the following:

* How many folks experience some form of this bimodal grouping pattern in your shooting results? What are the "magic" numbers of rounds in your groups when you begin to see the flyers and the pattern emerging?

* If your gun is accurized, what mods have you done? Have you tried anything else on your gun to address the bimodal grouping?

* Any ideas on possible tests that could be used to firmly establish the CAUSE of this problem? Any ideas on possible solutions to the problem, aside from the normal accurization mods which many of us do (The normal mods are still helpful and necessary, but don't seem to address this problem)?



As a follow-up point, to give some starter data for discussion, I shot some targets at the range today to illustrate the issue. All shots were fired from my accurized Mini, 100 yards with a red dot scope, or from my factory non-modded Browning A-bolt (.223), using a Bushnell scope at 9x. I shot Federal American Eagle 50gr HP in both. Let me explain what each of the four targets illustrate (each target picture has a text label added to the picture that I'll use to refer to them below):

Mini-14 (1): This one shows my first 10-shot group, fired from a cold Mini. Surprisingly, in today's session my first shot was NOT a ridiculously wild flyer, which it usually is in 80% of range sessions. You can quickly see the bimodal pattern forming, with the shots including the bullseye and the shots in the black to the right of it forming a 5-shot cluster (this was NOT a consecutive group, though), and then the 4 flyers wide right are circled. The inconsistency was bad on this group: it would alternate back and forth EVERY shot, from flyer, to good shot, to flyer.

A-bolt (1): This one shows a 10-shot group fired from the cold A-bolt. This gun, true to form, was dead-on. The entire 10-shot group size is just under 2.25". And this is slightly worse than normal for this rifle. My first 8 shots are actually a group in this picture, and if you measure just them (excluding the circled ones), the group size is 1.75" with 5 bullseyes. Then I think because I was shooting too quickly, I shanked the last two shots (the circled ones) and that's what opened the total group up to 2.25". Still, this is a decent group for the purpose at hand. The most important point for this discussion is, this rifle doesn't show the same bimodal pattern of the Mini, with the same shooter, and the same ammo and the same shooting conditions, so that's some evidence that the problem must be in the Mini rifle.

Mini-14 (2): This was a second group from the Mini, only a 5-shot group this time. I stopped after 5 because it nicely illustrates how the bimodal pattern form in 5 shots (this is amazingly consistent in my rifle, it almost ALWAYS happens!). Note that the Mini had been sitting there for a while as I shot the Browning, and it was quite cold, so the rifle had cooled off. And as you might expect, my first 2 shots were the 2 flyers you see outside the black, to the right. This is what I typically get on my first shots from a cold barrel. The next 3 consecutive shots formed a group around the bullseye.

Mini-14 (3): This was my last and best string from the Mini for the day. It was a 10-shot group, and here you see only one flyer wide right, with the rest in the black. In the middle of the string, I had 4 consecutive shots (circled) that formed a group. But again, as some have pointed out (and I wholeheartedly agree), such groups as this 4-shot group are probably not as good news as I would like, because I cannot CONSISTENTLY shoot that group ANYTIME I WANT. I can only repro good groups like that SPORADICALLY, by firing larger groups of say 10 shots or more and choosing the best consecutive string of 3 or 4 shots. And the overall group size here of the 10-shot group is not good considering how the rifle can shoot 3- and 4-shot groups: it's 5.15". Pretty clearly, the RIFLE IS THE LIMITING FACTOR here, because of the flyers. The rifle is unpredictably shifting the POI to the right of my POA as frequently as every other shot, or as rarely as once or twice in 10 shots (as you see in this target), but regardless, it happens at least once in every 10 shots I fire.

Putting all this in perspective, my mini's group size today, with 10-shot groups of 8" and 5.15", and a 5-shot group of 5.25", averaged 6.13". Though I didn't have time to shoot more groups with the A-bolt, I can tell you that based on past performance, the 2.25" group I shot today was a little below average, but close enough to establish the general point that the Mini has this bimodal grouping pattern, and that more generally, the Mini is quite inconsistent overall and unable to keep 10 or even 5-shot groups in a reasonably tight pattern.

Now someone may object: Yes, but you were using a 9x scope on the A-bolt and no magnification on the Mini. And the A-bolt is an inherently accurate bolt gun, whereas the Mini is a semi-auto. Both points are true, but my expectation here is NOT that the Mini should shoot exactly like the Browning. I was not using the Browning for direct comparison, I was using it as a "control group" in my testing to illustrate that the bimodal grouping problem is confined to the Mini. By shooting a much tighter group with the Browning and using the same ammo, it helps me to rule out that the shooter and the ammo as likely causes of the Mini's problems.

Now, though I don't expect the Mini to shoot exactly as well as an A-bolt, my ACCURIZED Mini has been shooting 3- and 4-shot consecutive strings that group into an inch, and a few times even sub MOA. The Mini is not an A-bolt, but given what it can do when it's not throwing flyers, I would expect it to do a LOT better than 6" avg. group size. Even if I did use the same scope that's on the Browning, that would only help me to group my shots that were ALREADY IN THE BLACK a little tighter. The scope wouldn't prevent the flyers from happening, and they are what caused the 6" groups, not the distance between the shots in the black. So yes, I do expect the Mini should be able to group in 3", at 100 yards.

And now the larger concern comes into play. It's not JUST about group size here. Group size in this case indicates the rifle's potential for accuracy, and if a rifle is truly as inconsistent as these groups indicate, it's hard to imagine any scenario in which you'd use the rifle that you'd really find such inconsistency (and the resulting inaccuracy in a too-high percentage of your shots) to be acceptable. Whether shooting local competition matches, hunting, or defending yourself, flyers that can go anywhere from 3" to 15" (that's the usual range of my flyers) with a frequency of at least once, and often 2 to 4 times, every 10 shots, have a tendency to cause you to doubt whether you can rely on your rifle when you need it.

Anyway, sorry this got long, but I'm really hoping we can pool the ingenuity of folks on this forum and find some kind of solution that will help everybody who experiences this issue. I think this problem causes a really fun, reliable, great rifle to be less than it can be. [Edited for typos and clarification].

rutro
11-15-2006, 05:59
Timlt I don't quite know how to respond to this. First off since you have a red dot site on the mini you have to take into consideration that it's not conductive to accuracy at 100yd. ranges. Even if it has a 1moa dot. Without any magnification it is next to impossible to put that dot back in the same place every time.
How fast do you shoot when you do these type targets?
The faster you shoot the faster the barrel heats up. Barrel heating is what moves the POI around the most, combined with a red dot site at 100yds. that 10 shot group is about as good as you can expect. If you want to see how accurate your Mini14 realy is put some good glass on it. Get it zeroed and then try some 5 shot groups @ 100yds. Try five groups shooting as well as you can letting the rifle cool between sessions and then average the groups.

tri70
11-15-2006, 08:27
I agree with Rutro for the 100 yd mark you really need a scope to test against a scoped bolt. The red dot will be good for 50 yds to test against.
I shoot about 25 shots before I really notice accurracy got downhill. I have a strut on my mini 14 and Amega Ranges rail and trying Limbsaver deresonator( not convinced it works that well on minis). I have polished the action and use vaccuum belts to dampen the opt rod. I did cut and recrown my barrel to 16 1/4" with a Ramline m/b. I have a Simmons 4-12x 50 scope and B-square mount. Anyway alot of stuff added from the ideas on this board, but I also notice different mags will shoot alittle different. I think you really need a scope to see this. I've been cleaning my mini alot more lately and notice my cold shots stay constitant. I think the spring pressure from the mags affects how the bolt closes on the rounds makes alittle difference. I don't shoot as much as I used to, I've got it shooting good and deer season is on. The place where I like to target shoot is also the place were I hunt. After the season is over then I get out and target shoot more.
I seen in a magazine ad that Weathery Vanguard guarantees 1 1/2 moa accuracy. If my mini shoots close to that, I done something right!;)

timlt
11-15-2006, 09:23
But the issue isn't primarily about "accuracy at 100 yards", it's more about the flyers. In other words, I'm not so much concerned with the shots that are IN the black, as I am with the shots OUTSIDE the black. The red dot isn't the issue behind the flyers that are outside the black, IMO. Note again, I was not directly comparing performance of one rifle against another, I was using the Browning ONLY as a baseline to prove that the ammo and shooter weren't the cause of the flyers. The red dot COULD possibly cause some variation WITHIN the black area, but that cannot be what is opening up the avg. group size to 6" or more, because the flyers have occurred the same size in all these shooting situations over the past 3 to 4 weeks: with a 4-12x40 lower-end Bushnell scope mounted (though not the same one I used on the A-bolt, that's a nicer one), with iron sights, and with this red dot. I agree that in general one can shoot a tighter group with a scope than a red dot, but again, the concern here wasn't the tightness of my groups in the black, it was with the FLYERS that are opening up the group size outside the black, the wild shots that won't go where I aim them no matter what kind of sight I use, and they are making the rifle inconsistent and unreliable. Since the first two of you are mentioning this as a question, I'll go ahead and put the nicer scope from the A-bolt, which is the best I have, on the Mini next chance I get, and shoot with that to establish that the flyers happen the same way. That will be a full apples-to-apples comparison as far as the optic is concerned, and my strong expectation is that though I will have tighter groups in the black, the number of flyers that occur, and the distance that they are off target will remain consistent with what I have already observed up to this point. I'll post the results here.

But I'm still curious to know. If either of you just sit down and take ten shots within say 10 minutes, using your favorite optic (optics don't really matter much for this test, if you're getting flyers you'll still get them), are you saying that your rifles would not exhibit this kind of behavior? My hypothesis is that this kind of performance is even "normal" among a lot of Minis. And if it is, my hope is that we could work on figuring out what the cause is, and (without having to go to a bull barrel as a solution) find a way to eliminate it.

magnomark
11-15-2006, 09:25
:) I has a problem similar to yours timlit-I took off a leopold scope and had it factory rebuilt,put it back on and it still shot crappy.Come to find out it was a loose scope base.Not rattly but would shift from recoil and the bolt and op-rod slamming open and closed.I retightened and shimmed to mount base and everything started working correctly again.Another problem that i have encountered is forearm pressure on the barrel from the spring retainerclip being attached to the barrel,any pressure on the forearm top changes the harmonics on the barrel and causes the groups to open up,shift poi,and generally help in wasting alot of ammo.:o

tri70
11-15-2006, 09:35
The mini are crazy to re-act to slightest pressure, I took my handguard clip off so there is nothing touching the barrel on top. I also noticed that pressure on the bottom made a difference, the position on the rest you take makes a difference in poi. I now use a bipod and shoot with it exclusively to hold groups to more constistancy.

-tri

timlt
11-15-2006, 09:50
:) I has a problem similar to yours timlit-I took off a leopold scope and had it factory rebuilt,put it back on and it still shot crappy.Come to find out it was a loose scope base.Not rattly but would shift from recoil and the bolt and op-rod slamming open and closed.I retightened and shimmed to mount base and everything started working correctly again.Another problem that i have encountered is forearm pressure on the barrel from the spring retainerclip being attached to the barrel,any pressure on the forearm top changes the harmonics on the barrel and causes the groups to open up,shift poi,and generally help in wasting alot of ammo.:o

That's interesting. Did the latter problem cause you to get the same type of bimodal pattern in your groups?

timlt
11-15-2006, 09:52
The mini are crazy to re-act to slightest pressure, I took my handguard clip off so there is nothing touching the barrel on top. I also noticed that pressure on the bottom made a difference, the position on the rest you take makes a difference in poi. I now use a bipod and shoot with it exclusively to hold groups to more constistancy.

-tri

Did you find this made the bimodal grouping (if you had that problem) go away altogether? That is, if you take 10 shots with your current setup, would you expect to get one or more flyers in the same general region of the target, regardless of how well you shoot in the center-target area?

markw76
11-15-2006, 10:33
The touchy behavior would seem to be at least partly based on a lack of barrel stiffness. The other thing that bothers me about the design, that is different than other Garand-style gas systems, is the lack of a thread-and-spline system for afixing the gas block. If the block was one piece, tapped onto splines machined in the barrel, and secured with a threaded retainer tightening against a stop machined into the barrel, would it tend to be more consistant? I suspect so, but the mini would then be much more complicated to fabricate, though CNC machines may mitigate that factor a bit. It would also concern me a lot less if the operating rod reached the rearmost limit of its travel without so much excess velocity. The banging back and to a lesser extent forward again (slowed by both the drag of the cartridge being fed foward and the bolt reaching the limit of its travel) is obviously influencing other components, as evidenced by its effect on scope mounts. (Were those Ruger style rings on a Ranch? They seem rather solid and self-locating at first glance.)

tri70
11-15-2006, 19:51
I do usally get the the same fliers occuring in a 5 or 10 shot string, I can get 2'' group with a 5 shot string and as good as 1 1/4'' which is really good for a mini. I have also cryoed my barrel and reciever so I get a repeatable pattern without stringing.

-tri

markw76
11-15-2006, 21:33
Cryo would be good to do during the winter layover. If nothing else, wear factors would improve.

magnomark
11-15-2006, 23:05
Timlt-to answer your question about the bimodal/bipolar disorder-it was caused by the scope mt being loose enough to be influenced from the recoil or cycling of the action,Markw96 the rifle was a regular mini with a solid one piece base that replaced the rear sight.Normally this base was rock solid,but after 20+ years of service it loosened up,causing the up/down double groups on same target.:blink:

run8
11-15-2006, 23:53
My Mini doesn't have a bi-polar disorder, but one of my bosses at work does, we call him Lemon Drop because you never know if he's going to be sweet or sour :-)

Frank

rutro
11-16-2006, 06:39
Timlt said;

But the issue isn't primarily about "accuracy at 100 yards", it's more about the flyers

Now I'm with ya. Those dreded fliers. :o I wouldn't admit that to just anyone. But serriously, at one time or another every mini owner will run up aganst 'em. They can make ya crazy. You'll start wondering "Did I pull that one?" or "Was that a gust of wind or me?"
It can be from a lot of different and unrelated causes. Anything from ammo to an excess of "Z" in the sine wave of the barrel whip. Pardon my pun...
The one thing we can do to fix the fliers is make sure the fit and finish of rifle is tight, and to shoot good ammo. In other words if the gun has been bedded and the barrel floated (no pressure from gas block on barrel) and scope mounts are tight. Then try some different ammo, somewhere there's some factory ammo on a shelf that your mini will like.
Then there's the dred wobble factor. Mine has progressed to the point of being stuck, on high no less. It's a terrible problem. Some days I can't even slow it down, even on a rest the picture through the scope just wobbles back and forth and I'm trying to squeeze one off in the middle as the target goes by. That causes me to pull the triger instead of squeezing and I'm looking at where it hit and saying "Damn where'd that come from?" Hope you never get your wobble factor stuck, it'll make ya run cars and bark at the moon:wacko: :wacko: :wacko: RUTRO!!!

timlt
11-16-2006, 13:35
You know, one thing that's kinda funny. I was looking back at some of my old targets that I shot with the Mini just after I bought it, before I had put the scout rail on it, done mods, added the red dot, added the compensator, etc. And it appears that my old groups didn't have the same tendency as it does now (the bimodal pattern, with most shots falling in a pattern where I aim them, but several flyers that also form a rough pattern).

For example, look at this target that I posted to the group early on, it had 19 or 20 shots with open sights at 100 yards, and only 1 shot was wide right.

http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=10053&d=1158212977

Certainly no "pattern" of flyers is visible in that string. But nowadays, there's NO WAY I could shoot 20 shots and have only 1 go wide like that.

I'm starting to wonder if I should just go over the whole rifle and triple check EVERYTHING that I've added. Take off the scout rail, then reinstall it and tighten down really well. Retorque the gas block. Remount the red dot sight and tighten the heck out of it. Clean under the compensator and around the crown, then tighten the heck out of it and use Loctite. I've checked these things recently just to make sure things are snug, but CLEARLY something that used to not be a problem has now become a problem, and logically that means it must be something that I've added since then. It's hard to believe that on a rifle this new, I could have shot out the barrel or had accuracy go downhill already. And besides, that wouldn't make sense anyway, because when it's not throwing flyers, it DOES shoot accurately--more so than before I added all this stuff. With the mods and other add-ons I really can shoot 1 inch or even some sub 1-inch groups--something I could never do before--as long as we're only talking 3 to 4 shots.

Maybe the flyers will never be eliminated, and I'll just have to accept that. I've already accepted long ago that the Mini isn't a target gun. I'm not even TRYING to turn it into one. But I really would like to just tighten it up, make it more consistent, get rid of the flyers. If I could continue to shoot 1 inch groups of 3 to 4 shots, and if on top of that, I could get 10-shot groups that would stay within 2 to 2.5 inches, and 20-shot groups that would stay within 3 to 4 inches, I would be completely satisfied. Does that seem like an unrealistic goal, based on what other accurized Mini's can do?

mini-mizer
11-16-2006, 13:41
Gosh--The Mini 14 is a direct impingement, unmodulated gas operated
semiauto rifle. The only one of a few in production that I know of.
They have particular qualities that other type of actions don't,
as you have discovered


I found shooting over a chronograph to be enlightening.




MM

steve4102
11-16-2006, 16:12
Timlt I don't quite know how to respond to this. First off since you have a red dot site on the mini you have to take into consideration that it's not conductive to accuracy at 100yd. ranges. Even if it has a 1moa dot. Without any magnification it is next to impossible to put that dot back in the same place every time.
.

Ditto. I have a red dot scope that I put on my Mini-30 for hunting. When I develop loads etc. I always remove the red dot and put on a 3-9 x 40. Even @9 power I wish I had more magnification. The more the better. If I recall correctly the last time I went out to 100 with the red dot and my best loads I was averaging about 2 1/2 inches.

Timlt, JMHO but with the way you are shooting with the red dot, a high power scope might put you in the MOA club.

timlt
11-16-2006, 18:37
Ditto. I have a red dot scope that I put on my Mini-30 for hunting. When I develop loads etc. I always remove the red dot and put on a 3-9 x 40. Even @9 power I wish I had more magnification. The more the better. If I recall correctly the last time I went out to 100 with the red dot and my best loads I was averaging about 2 1/2 inches.

Timlt, JMHO but with the way you are shooting with the red dot, a high power scope might put you in the MOA club.

I totally understand the point, and agree with you. Like I said to the other 2 guys who noted this above, I will put a decent scope on there when I get a chance and post the results. I sort of anticipated in my first post that folks would point this out, that I was using different optic types on the 2 rifles.

But did you also note the follow up point I made (don't blame you if you missed it, the post is WAY too long and too much detail), which is that I WAS NOT DIRECTLY COMPARING THE MINI's PERFORMANCE TO THE ABOLT PERFORMANCE for accuracy purposes? The abolt was being used ONLY as a control group in the test, merely to indicate that the flyers do not happen with another rifle, the same shooter, and the same ammo. That's it. My expectation is VERY strongly that shooting with a scope on the Mini will tighten up my groups on the shots that already land in the black, but it will not at all prevent the flyers that are forming a pattern wide right, and thus overall group size will remain unchanged on the Mini, with or without a scope. Those flyers are so far off from where I'm aiming (and many days it's worse than what you see in these targets--this was a "good day" as far as flyers go), and it's such an obvious contrast when one shot goes EXACTLY where I aim it with the red dot, and then the next shot though aimed at EXACTLY the same point goes 8" or 10" wide right, and then the next shot is right back on target again, I just cannot believe the sight itself is causing that crazy behavior, especially when it alternates every other shot like that.

I will do the scope test, because I agree with you, for thoroughness in the testing I NEED to do that just to completely rule out potential issues in the red dot sight. But hopefully I've made it clear that I wasn't really comparing group size directly to the Abolt, I was just using it to show that the frequent flyers problem causing the bimodal grouping is unique to the Mini.

timlt
11-19-2006, 04:44
Well today was interesting, to put it mildly. In a nutshell, after mounting a cheap 9x Bushnell scope (formerly used on my 10-22) the flyers disappeared. Completely. I don't know what I did, but they're gone. I guess Rutro, Steve, anyone else who recommended the scope should feel vindicated, looks like you're right and I was wrong, it appears to have had something to do with the sights, though I cannot figure out what, and I REALLY cannot figure out why the flyers happened with BOTH the red dot sight AND my open sights, forming the same type of patterned flyers in both cases. In a sense, I'm not any closer to figuring out why that happens than I was before.

Anyway, here's the stuff I changed. Like I promised, I put a scope on the Mini to test the scenario. I also generally tightened things up all over, and to mount the scope, I used the heavy duty Ruger rings that came with the rifle (I decided for this test to NOT use my Ultimak rail, because at the moment I'm not trusting ANY of my add-ons to the rifle). Finally, I tuned my ASI adjustable gas block just a bit to reduce my brass throw.

Here's a summary of a 20-shot target that nicely illustrates how things went:

You'll see the larger group of 15 shots circled, and to the left of those, in sort of a downward curve, 5 shots. Those 5 were the first 5 shots as I was still working on getting my scope sighted in. The 15 that are circled are truly a consecutive group of shots, fired directly one after the other, and NO, I did NOT take the normal recommended approach of waiting for the rifle to cool between shots. I was shooting about a shot every minute or two. That's because, today I was more concerned with seeing whether the flyers pattern would reproduce, rather than focusing on getting a small group size. Still, the groupings weren't bad. Group size for the total 20 shots even including the 5 sighting shots is 3.2" (and that's what my goal was for a 20-shot group under normal shooting conditions with this rifle, so obviously I'm pretty happy with that), and for the 15 shots, fired after I was sighted in, group size was even better, at 2.72", with 8 of the 15 shots in or touching the 10 ring. My expectation is that, using my nicer Burris scope set at say 12x, and taking my time between shots, would probably yield better groups. But regardless, my mouth was hanging open at this point. Where were the alternating flyers that have been my constant shooting companion for the last number of weeks? Not a single one occurred, even with my fairly rapid firing.

It gets better, I fired another target full of 20 shots, and though my grouping wasn't quite as good on that target as this one, it was still well under 4" and AGAIN THERE WERE NO FLYERS--the one bad shot that messed up the group size was definitely my fault. And by the end of the day I had fired a FULL 60 SHOTS WITH NO FLYERS AMONG THEM! Amazing!

I'm not quite sure what to make of all this. Nothing seemed really loose when I tightened up everything on the rifle, so I really don't think it was that. I did adjust the gas block a bit, but I've done that several times before and never noticed such a dramatic change good or bad. So it had to be going to the scope mounted on the Ruger rings, whereas before I was getting the bimodal grouping of flyers versus good shots when using either my red dot sight mounted on my Ultimak rail, or my open sights. Both showed the same bimodal pattern.

Any thoughts on why I DON'T see the problem with scope mounted on the integral slots, but DO see it using the iron sights or my red dot? In a sense, I'm glad to know I can get the accuracy by going to the scope, but it's really disturbing that essentially I cannot trust my iron sights or my red dot at all, and I don't know why.

rutro
11-19-2006, 09:38
When you are shooting at distance with a red dot or irons the dot or even the blade front sight covers a larger area of the target than the cross hairs of a scope. For instance a 2MOA dot covers 2'' of the target at 100yds. more or less, more since MOA is a tad over an inch. At 100yds. a 2'' object can be very hard to see without some kind of magnification. Trying to keep a 2MOA dot centered on target w/naked eye is difficult at best @ 100yds. and dang near impossible for some of us older youngsters. When combined with the fact that if your cheek weld changes by just a little bit (0.01) your POI can move an inch or so...... 1MOA and you've discovered what makes long distance shooting so difficult and cheek weld so important along with breathing technique and varrious other sundry and neffarious practices. But I'd say you've got that mini shooting fairly well considering!!!!

rugmar
11-19-2006, 10:38
If you like the red dot sight on your mini and intend to leave it on there, I think a better test would be to put the red dot on the A-bolt and then see what happens. I understand your theory about making a control group just to prove to yourself that you can shoot a group without producing flyers with the A-bolt. But...I think it is all too easy to produce a "flyer", although that's not what it really is, just by using a dot sight because it is too difficult to go to the same POA each and every time.

I guess I'm pretty much just in agreement with what Rutro says in his last post above.

gundoc
11-19-2006, 10:57
You'll also want to pull out the red dot manual and see if it specifies a paralax setting from the factory. Paralax beyond 50 yards with a red dot is quite common and will drive you crazy!

timlt
11-19-2006, 13:05
Well Rutro you must be right; you were certainly right in your initial suggestion above. I sure don't have any better ideas. After a day like yesterday, I'm don't know whether to be glad the gun CAN shoot better under certain conditions, or frustrated that I cannot identify what the problem is under the other conditions. I was just about to give up on that gun, "file" it in the safe, and move on, the conclusion being that it couldn't shoot as accurately as I could. Or at least I was tempted to quit even trying to shoot the Mini for accuracy, and just use it for blasting old refrigerators in the gravel pits. Now, I'm not so sure that it's time to give up on the Mini just yet. But I'm also not sure what to try next. Maybe the suggestion in the other post, of putting the red dot on another rifle that I consider more accurate, is one thing to try. And Gundoc's parallax suggestion sounds like something worth checking into. Still, as great as these suggestions are--and I really will try them--I just don't get why the pattern happens so closely between the red dot AND the iron sights. And the red dot seemed capable of shooting such tight groups before, that's why the flyers seemed so hard to explain. To be honest, the reason I had earlier ruled out the red dot as a causal factor in this behavior is that I could get such EXTREMELY accurate 3 to 4-shot groups with it (many times around an inch at 100 yards), I just couldn't believe it would be the cause of these flyers as long as it was tight and zeroed.

That's the negative side. But on the more positife side, if you look at my target I posted from yesterday, that 15-shot group at 2.72", which I fired at 9x with a $60 scope and in a total of just over 20 minutes of time (very little waiting to cool between shots), that is pretty encouraging in terms of showing the rifle's potential. I can't wait to see what this little rifle can do when I put a REAL scope on there (I have a nice Burris Fullfield 2 I could use, and a 6-20 x 40 Bushnell trophy that would work), turn the scope up to 12x, slow down, and take plenty of time between shots. To me, the ULTIMATE in a high performance Mini would be to get 20 shots on one target, grouped within 2". Now THAT would be some serious shooting, for a Mini! It would be fun to get a few targets with some shooting like that on them posted in our target shooting area, and every time other people start blowing about how inaccurate Mini's are, point them to the targets by Two Rangers, and also these 20-shot targets I'm talking about, if someone can ever shoot them.!

[Edited for clarity and typos].

tri70
11-20-2006, 20:33
There's a good target! Nice shooting, nothing wrong at all, just shoot that gun and enjoy!

ydaho
12-25-2006, 23:04
I think groups under 2 in are possible with open sights..... if you have a swedish mauser with a 35 inch sight radius (redding aperature sights). I have been able to get 1 inch groups with open sights with that gun but a mini just has about 22 inches of sight radius. Like rutro said one slight movement will throw groups off by quite a bit.

I had wild groups with my mini the first time I shot it, until I got used to the trigger. Now it does ok. Anyway, bye.