Where to start?

[batmanacw]

I am a Machinist, and have a full hobby machine shop at my disposal. Lathes, mills (1 cnc), surface grinder, shaper, Ram Edm and various other implements.

I really don't know where to start!

The trigger will be on the list, but it really isn't that bad for its use. Don't need a tricked out 12 to 16oz trigger like my 10/22's. I may drop it down a few lbs.

I would like to get a feel for what will give me the best bang for the buck.

Tuning the gas port seems interesting. I thought about different ways to restrict the flow, while being adjustable.

What would you folks do first?

[batmanacw]

Well, I just dove in to the trigger for the first time.

I studied it with my trigger pull gage. The first spring exerts 1lb14oz. of pressure, then the next spring added enough pressure that it jumped to 5lb oz. Then the trigger broke around 6lb.s.

I used a 1000 grit stone with honing oil to polish the surfaces and remove a couple of ugly burrs! I used sharpie ink to cover the sear surfaces and check for full contact. Everything looks square and true. This dropped the trigger pull to about 5 lbs 4oz.

I don't know if it was a really bad idea, but I cut 1.5 coils from the spring under the catch that resets the hammer. All of the excess force was caused by this spring. It seems to have plenty of snap and I didn't change the engagement depths at all. It seems to have no problem hanging on.
The trigger is still long and slightly gritty, but much better than stock. It is 3.5lbs. right now. I will do some more minor polishing get rid of more of the grittiness.

I will probably shoot it a little tomorrow to see if it still functions okay.

[rutro]

Batmanacw you're a man after my own heart, with a hobby machine shop like that. You could almost start from scratch and build up a mini. That trigger sounds like it's there and just needs to be polished out now. Definatly polish the action. Getting the gas block squared up and retorqeing the bolts evenly is a must do also. The barrel float as per the Cajungeo in the tips & tricks is in my book a must do also. Then if you'll bed the stock it'll start shooting a lot more better. With the machine shop capability you should realy consider a tennsioned barrel shroud. That's what 2Rangers did to his and so far he's that lone member of the MOA club. Here's a link to 2Rangers gallery pics and a very detailed description of how he did it, http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=45405, just incase you're interested. That is what I'd do anyway, just a thought.;)

[batmanacw]

Thanks alot for the link.

I was actually considering doing something very similar. I like my flash hider/ protected front sight, but I was considering doing a tensioning sleave that is thinner than the one in the picture, so I can keep using my sights. It would be three piece. The first clamping block in front of the gas block, then a sleave internally threaded at one end, and a threaded mating piece at the other end that would also clamp to the barrel.

I haven't worked out the details, but you would rotate the sleave to tighten it, pulling the barrel both directions at the same time. The trick is to leave it thin enough that the sights will still be plainly visible, with the sleave only reaching the bottom of the sight post.

I just don't want to depend on a scope on this rifle.

[rutro]

Well Batmanacw now you can get a top strap for the gas block that has a dovetail milled in it for a front site. Looks like the AC556 when it has a straight blade in it. I've got to the point that my 'Ol eyes don't do iron sights anymore. I've been off playing around with the Crosman pump up pellet pistol on and off and I've even put a scope on it. Found a forum that's just full of air gun nuts and I just fell in. If it's got a trigger and launches some kind of projectile that's my kind of toy.... sick isn't it.

But anyway, back to the topic of this one. I have a shroud on my mini and it's .75 O.D. I decided that was the way to go and wanted a way to get there without all the machine work. Finaly got'er done. Now I'm in need of a hundred yard range ....... and wouldn't ya know it's in S.TX. and we are in N.TX. Actualy we live full time in a motorhome, it's time to head to Mustang Island in S.TX. and I'm moveing a little slow this year. We spend our winters down there and on Lake Fork in N.TX. for the summer........

I don't blame ya for not wanting to be to far from an iron site on the mini. I've set mine up with a Weigand rail on top of the factory scope ring mounts and I've acquired a collection of sites for this one. If ever I need it for CCQ I'll drop it in the BC folder which is already bedded and waiting. Then the Armson O.E.G. will go on it ..... and shame on any bad people who....... well never mind, we won't go there right now. So, here's another link, http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=52813, to the on-going thread about this project. Maybe this will give you some ideas, just a though. I say it's on-going, haven't posted to it in so long I almost couldn't find it. May start a new one ........;)

[boogeyman]

Rutro, I believe you have made me think about the Mini again,thanks:). As I have the evil threads on my muzzle this seems like a good place to start........time to go to HD on my way to Gander mtn:lol:. Shotgun season is like a week away so I'm not going to haul as* on this project but it is in the back of my mind.

[rutro]

Hey Boogeyman if your barrel is already threaded this is the mod to try. The parts total should be less than $20 unless you want to go with some exotic pipe or something. I have a new spacer I'm going nutz to try out. I used a bronze? ring from a plumbers compression fitting on the front. It had to be split of course and made smaller but it's a little thicker than the other and it gave a real tight fit. I think I was getting a small amount of movement at the front with the other. So as soon as we get to Port Aransas I'll be at the range for some serrious 100 and 200 yard shooting. I can't beleive no one else has tried this yet. Or if they have they are not talking. I guess a lot of folks are waiting to see if it flies or dies. Anyway, let us know if you try this, or at least let me know and I'll help any way I can.

[tri70]

I think the bedding will be just as important as the trigger and polishing the action smooth.;)

-tri

[rutro]

Tri70 said;
I think the bedding will be just as important as the trigger and polishing the action smooth

Absolutly! ! ! Of course ever once and a while someone will get a stock that is inletted just so and it just won't need bedding but I should be so lucky.
For sure as a general rule the trigger job and bedding are necessary for a mini to be consistantly able to group at 2moa.
There is one other thing that will help and no one ever addresses. That's the hand guard clamp on the barrel. For a National Match M-14 it's recomended that a peice of neoprene 1/2" square and 3/16" thick be glued to the bottom of the hand guard where it clamps over the barrel. This is to hold the hand guard off the barrel. It also goes on to say that the hand guard should be checked for clearance at the op-rod and the receiver when the hand guard is in it's fully forward position.

I don't think the neoprene will work with the mini because the clamp is to close to the chamber and it can get realy hot. I remove the clamp on mine and use roll pins epoxyed into the stock to secure the hand guard. The factory one and the older wood one also. It's a lot of trouble, but it removes that last unnessary attachment that can interfear with the barrel harmonics. There is a permant groove worn into my barrel where that clamp used to ride. If you do Cajungeos' barrel float and remove that clamp you'll notice a lot more consistant groups. At least I do...

[kwg020]

My recomendation is to simply take off the hand guard. It should help keep the barrel cooler, especially if you have a wooden one. It pops right off and back on. I also have a Choate stock. There is plenty of air space around the guide that keeps the op-rod in place. If I had a machine shop I would think about building a shround that has cooling blades around it to help disapate the heat and strengthens the barrel. Just me. kwg