Thread Lockers and bases

[darjeeling]

I've had some problems with loose base screws before, and was wondering what I should use to keep them fast. I've heard that loctite blue (IIRC, could be another type here, though) is a good method, but some others say that loctite is overkill, and advocate using clear nail polish. Although, I know many cleaning solvents will disolve nail polish, so that doesn't seem like the way to go.

My question is what the best thread locking compound for securing scope bases. I dont want to use anything that'd damage blueing either. Thanks

[2rangers]

Dar-
The blue loctite should solve your problems. The red is too strong, and the green too thin, as well as too strong. Make sure the screws and threaded holes are cleaned and de-greased, and apply just a dab to the first thread or two of your screws. Install, and let it sit for an hour at room temp to set-up. The nice thing about the blue is that it is removable. If you use the red or the green, you will prob. need to use heat to remove, not the healthiest thing for optics or stocks. Hope this helps!
:sniper:

[darjeeling]

Thanks 2rangers. I'll pick some loctite blue up tommorow.

On a completely scope unrelated note, I belevie I've found the engine to go in my 70' Challenger. The 318 in it was a dog, and the A904 even worse. Luckily I got a free 360 with 727 out of a 76 van, and the block and tranny are super clean--and everything I'm going to save on that enigne assy. looks almost mint. I think I'm going for something topped with Aerohead built iron J-head castings, 9.4-9.8:1 compression, a cam making about 10" mercury at idle, and all the rest of the goodies. Should get me all I need for a fun car that I can drive to school every once in a while. Just thought you'd like to know as a fellow mopar fan.

Oh yeah, my brother is getting a 440 built for his 68' charger. Hopefully we'll have 'em both running by the end of summer.

[2rangers]

Dar-
The combo sounds Great!! You may want to consider a set of edelbrock heads for your 360, as they come complete, are new, and priced right. As a matter of fact, they are usually cheaper than getting stock heads re-done, and they can make some serious HP right out of the box. Plus, they take about 50 or so pounds off the front end, where you want weight reduction the most. Oh, and they're repairable if (heaven forbid) something goes wrong, and the head cracks or gets otherwise messed-up.
Also, when you get your tranny serviced, consider a bolt in rear sprag, and a good tranny cooler, as the stock in-radiator cooler may not be up to the task. Consider the bolt in rear sprag a must if you plan on making more than say, 400-450 hp, or do any trips to the drag strip. :sniper:

[darjeeling]

Well, I really want those Edelbrocks, but I'd need to find 500 or so more dollars. Expecially since this car is pretty much stripped and Challenger trim and interior parts are a bit spendy. I'm not getting my stockers re-done, as they are crappy smog castings. Anyways, why bother when I can get assembled cast iron sets with all the good parts in better castings for around 700. However, the 63cc combustion chamber and the nice flow on the Edelbrocks makes it awfull tempting to save up for.

[2rangers]

Exactly! And besides, they take a bunch of weight off the front end, too. I've got a set on a 452" rb(440), and w/ only minor port work, a healthy cam, single plane victor, and a 1050 hp carb, it's making over 720hp, w/ 650ft/lbs avail. from 4100rpm and up. Not really streetable, but it still makes decent vacuum at idle, and will idle down to 1000 reliably.