Thinking of duracoating an HK

[Taquito971]

I'm thinking of having someone duracoat my HK USP in desert digital camo. What's your opinion?

Brian

[gundoc]

The desert digital looks and works really well on rifles due to the surface area. On a handgun, it might be a little more work to achieve the desired effect because of the size of the squares. Overall I think it would look good!

Doc

[Taquito971]

Originally posted by gundoc@Jun 2 2005, 11:10 AM
The desert digital looks and works really well on rifles due to the surface area. On a handgun, it might be a little more work to achieve the desired effect because of the size of the squares. Overall I think it would look good!

Doc
The finish is pretty worn on it so that's why I'm looking at the duracoat, what is the average cost of duracoating in digital camoflauge? Does the firearm maintain the proof markings and other text currently visible after being coated?

Brian

[gundoc]

You're looking at around $250. All the markings and engravings will still be quite visible. Areas of particular need to maintain, such as the serial number get a single color over them just to be sure.

[Taquito971]

Thanks for the fast responses GunDoc! I only paid $425 for the gun, so I'm not sure I want to drop $250 on it right now. Maybe I'll go with a single color in the future. I guess I should have looke at your website for a ballpark figure huh?

Brian

[rutro]

You may want to think about doing it your self. I did my Para-Ord P-12 with Brownells Teflon/Moly spray in a can. It's a O.D. Green and was easy once I got into it. Here's a pic.

[Taquito971]

Did you have to take the gun all the way down before you painted it?

I've never taken my HK apart all the way, and there are a number of pins and what not that would need to be taken out to do so. What kind of disassembly is required?

What kind of dimensional tolerances do I have to worry about? Slide to frame fit? Or just paint it assembled?

Brian

[gundoc]

It should be completely disassembled. Any oils around the pins or screws will leach out and ruin the finish. Dimensionally there shouldn't be any problems unless you put it on REAL heavy. Blasting with 220 grit aluminum oxide is recommended. Degrease before and after blasting, then apply and bake. The polymer can be left to air cure for a week or two to reach full strength or put in the oven at 100 degrees for an hour or so. Preperation is the key for these coatings to adhere and last well. One can of Brownells spray will do a few handguns. If you aren't sure about complete disassembly, send it out to have it done.

[Taquito971]

Originally posted by gundoc@Jun 2 2005, 06:41 PM
If you aren't sure about complete disassembly, send it out to have it done.
I know I could do my other two handguns, but this one I don't have a manual for. I'll have to put it off for a while until I can assemble the funds. I'd rather have the barrel on my Mini-14 chopped first...

Brian

[gundoc]

Send me an email to gundoc@greatwestgunsmithing.com and I will email you a manual in PDF format. I have the armorer's manual, too.

Doc

[rutro]

There you go Taquito971, with the manual from Gundoc you should be able to do the disassembly with a little study. He is also very right about preparation. It is everything with this refinish method. When you think it's degreased do it again to make sure. I did not have axcess to anything to blast it with aluminum oxide or beads as I heard some people do it. I used steel wool and had very good results. I also used a pistol type hair dryer to heat each peice before spraying, you don't want it so hot as to burn a hand but good and warm. Then the paint will dry almost as soon as it hits the metal. I did two very light coats. The first was so light as to not even completely cover the metal then the second to just cover so that color is solid. By heating just before painting you also prevent runs. Good luck and have fun doing it. :D

[gundoc]

I have also had success with very fine sandpaper to create scratches in a swirl pattern. The surface should be a little rough to get the best adhesion. DuraCoat and any of the Brownell's sprays will self level and cover small scratches. That's the whole reason blasting is recommended.

[Taquito971]

Originally posted by gundoc@Jun 3 2005, 04:03 AM
Send me an email to gundoc@greatwestgunsmithing.com and I will email you a manual in PDF format. I have the armorer's manual, too.

Doc
Email Sent! Thanks GunDoc! I may try this myself.

If I mess it up, do you take basket cases? :lol:

Brian

[boogeyman]

That duracoat is really not that bad(w/ a single color), more time consuming for the camo patterns because of the clear top coat that is required. And NO blasting required:)

[LonePathfinder]

I do believe HK's "hostile environment finish" is not characterized by the surface color. Thus if the slide "seems" worn you are not losing protection.

My personal opinion, I don't care for the complex finish patterns on hand guns. They do look sharp on the long guns, but from an asthetic point of view its looks "off" on a smaller handgun.

Some of the two and three tone finishes, however, do look sharp. OD green, black and silver on the right components looks cool. I suspect a Tan in place of OD would look cool.

While you may have paid 425 for the gun, a USP is a high quality weapon and will last forever, so I wouldn't worry about dropping 250 bucks on refinishing it if thats what you want.

[BlenderWizard]

What about using a finish like gunkote or duracote on a stainless pistol? how well would that hold up?

[gundoc]

It is really all in the prep and application. Done correctly they can hold up very well. Not every product is right for every gun, though. I offer DuraCoat, GunKote and CeraKote, and they each have unique properties that need to be considered for the intended use. If you are thinking of doing it yourself, ask the manufacturer about recommended applications and methods. In the long run, it really is cheaper to have someone do it if you only want one gun done and don't have the equipment like a blast cabinet and suitable air compresor. If you think you might want to do it as a side job, get the equipment, and check with your local LEO and ATF for permits. In general, you don't need an FFL to do your friends guns if you aren't making it your primary income. You will need one to ship.

[Marlin 45 carbine]

mind giving some details on the 'Cerakote'? prep included?

[gundoc]

CeraKote is a product made here in Oregon, but you can't buy it over the counter. You have to attend the manufacturer's training or prove you have the skills before they will assign a sales rep. The manufacturer's details are here:

http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php

Prep is much the same as far as disassembly, cleaning and blasting. There are 2 types of coating, thermoset and air cure. The air cure will withstand a little higher operating temps, while the oven cure will be slightly more durable. It's a great coating. My AR and my Glock both wear it.:)

[Marlin 45 carbine]

thanks for the info Doc, due to the self-lube quality of the 'Cerakote' I'm considering it over the 'Durakote' finish.

[gundoc]

All of the finishes I offer have their own unique properties and place in the world. I like the CeraKote for handgun slides. It's a good choice.

[Don8948]

gundoc,

What grit paper did you get best results with? Did you use the wet or dry paper? Also, I was wondering if using it on an orbital sander would work to get the swirl pattern you mentioned. I have the Brownells Gun-Kote, but don`t have access to a bead blaster. I`m going to do a Rem 870.

Thanks
Don

[gundoc]

I never went above 220 and then finished with a steel scratch brush. The idea is to leave the surface a bit rough, even though it will look and feel smooth, for adhesion. The little noks and crannies allow the coating to grab hold of the metal. When blasting, beads are a no-no as they leave the finish too smooth. 70-120 grit aluminum oxide is what most manufacturers recommend. If there is a welding shop or similiar place nearby they should have a blaster and may charge just a little for the job.

I will tell you that GunKote never worked worth a damn without blasting, but DuraCoat does a good job even on parts like scopes that can't be sanded or blasted. DuraCoat also does not need oven curing like GunKote, as an 870 barrel is hard to fit in the oven. Brownell's Alumhyde II is a great finish, and I have cured it under a heat lamp (even though it doesn't require it) back in the day on many .22's with great results. Comes in a spray can in several colors. I've even used it on outside mirrors and truck bumpers with good success. BTW - DuraCoat also comes in a spray can these days, but I haven't tried it.

One other thing you can try is a product by KG Industries called K-phos. It sprays on and creates a proper substrate like Parkerizing. A good auto body paint store will also have spray cans of something like acid number 8 that will etch the surface enough to promote a beter bond, especially if the 870 has a vent rib on the barrel.

[Don8948]

Thanks gundoc,

The 870 is an old police shotgun with an 18 inch barrel and bead sight, so the barrel wouldn`t be a problem getting in the oven. I am kind of stuck with using the gun-kote as I already have it and don`t want to invest much more money in the gun. I will try a welding shop and see if I can bead blast it there. I talked to the gunsmith at my local Gander Mt., and he wanted $40.00 to do the job. I have bead blasted a lot of stuff in the past at an old job, so I think it could be done in 15 to 20 minutes.

Don


ETA: We were using aluminum oxide as well where I worked. I blasted my brothers Para Ordnance slide, and coated it with the gun-kote more than 10 years ago, and it still looks like new.

[gundoc]

Well, since it is a Brownells product you have they will take it back and you can get something different if you would like to. Brownells is absolutely top notch for customer service.