cajungeo
11-16-2003, 16:36
Bedding will take up all movement in 3 dimensions between your receiver/barrel, and stock. Try to visualize this as we go. A movement of as little as .010“ will cause flyers up to 1/2“ at 50 yds. Bedding will tighten up your groups, and get rid of flyers.
Disclaimer: It is important to print this out and read very carefully, along with the Bedding Manufacture’s instructions. Do not blame me if you bond your rifle into one chunk. If I have left out a step, it will be covered in the Manufacture’s bedding instructions. I also highly recommend a “timed rehearsal” as the bedding material has a “work life” I believe about 20 min. The last thing you want is to find you forgot some small item that will waste time finding it. I rehearsed 3 times. (I actually pretended to mix, apply, and assemble the rifle from beginning to end to make sure I had every thing at hand, and could do it with time to spare)
I use the Acraglas Gel Kit. (Green Box) it is very easy to work with and comes with just about everything you need except model clay. There is enough material for several rifles. It even has dye to match your stock. A little dye goes a long way!
1. Free float barrel. - This relieves stress from stock to barrel. Ref: Free float barrel (http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7159)
2. Prep Stock:
A. (Wood or Wood Laminate): You can “seal” the stock with Tru-Oil or other sealer, before bedding as I did, or you can seal what’s left after bedding to keep moisture from getting under the bedding, and into the wood. Bed stock under takedown screw hole. You may have to remove material or use a “thin alum” washer to make room for bedding material. This will keep the wood from compressing, creating "future stress" on the barrel.
B. Clean oil or other lubricants with Isopropyl Alcohol form stock inletting, and barrel channel.
C. Abrade stocks inletting if it has a slick coating, or is a fiberglass/plastic stock with course sandpaper. If you have a plastic stock with not much fiberglass, such as Butler Creek stocks, drill several small drill starts to provide mechanical locks for the bedding to bond into. When finished wipe or blow off dust.
D. Apply tape to top of stock along receiver, and barrel channel to catch squeeze out.
3. Prep Metal Parts:
A. With receiver/barrel/trigger group assembled, Plug all possible mechanical locks with model clay. Spend some time on this or you may not get your rifle apart. Don’t forget receiver, and trigger group pins. Double, and triple check. (For a fluted barrel I applied model clay to flutes about 4 inches out.)
B. Add at least 1/8" to 1/4" model clay in front of V block, and V block screws or you may not get your stock off!
C. Apply at least 2 coats of release agent to all metal parts. Apply in adjacent areas to bedding to allow for squeeze out possibly getting into areas not bedded. Let each coat dry according to bedding instructions.
4. Bedding:
A. Bed the barrel 2" to 3". (See Photo 1) This supports heavy Bull steel barrel, and relieves stress exerted on the thin alum receiver. (You can skip bedding the barrel if you have a Standard Barrel, or Carbon fiber barrel). Also bed stock around take down, this will also form a recoil lug (Photo 1). Be careful not to get any in the screw hole. (Easer said than done).
B. Bed the Notch formed by trigger group, and rear of receiver. (Photo 2, 3)
C. There is 3 schools of thought on bedding the recoil lugs. (1) Bed the bottom 1/2 of the lugs, as when you pull your barrel up as I did, it will need room to swing fwd (Photo 4) (2) Use the notch in the receiver just aft of the take down screw as a recoil lug. (Photo 1). (3) Do like TheGermanGuy did; cut a notch in the V block to create a fwd/aft recoil lug. Ref:
http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/index.p...t=0&#entry21252
All 3 methods will work. You don't need all three, just pick one that grabs you.
D. Assemble rifle carefully. Just snug down take down, not real tight.
E. Clean up squeeze-out. Don’t forget inside of mag well!
A few reminders: (1.) Don't forget to block all possible mechanical locks with model clay. (2.) Don’t forget 2 coats of release agent on receiver-trigger group-barrel, and takedown screw. (3.) Remove barrel/Receiver after 4 hours or over night. Finish clean up of excess. Let Hard cure for 3 days before shooting.
Next step is to tune the barrel harmonics with a pressure pad or tuner. This is another chapter, already in print within these archives soon to be in the Tips & Tricks. Good luck! You will need this and a lot more to beat the Cajun in the Shooting Contest! Bawhaaaaaa :D
Disclaimer: It is important to print this out and read very carefully, along with the Bedding Manufacture’s instructions. Do not blame me if you bond your rifle into one chunk. If I have left out a step, it will be covered in the Manufacture’s bedding instructions. I also highly recommend a “timed rehearsal” as the bedding material has a “work life” I believe about 20 min. The last thing you want is to find you forgot some small item that will waste time finding it. I rehearsed 3 times. (I actually pretended to mix, apply, and assemble the rifle from beginning to end to make sure I had every thing at hand, and could do it with time to spare)
I use the Acraglas Gel Kit. (Green Box) it is very easy to work with and comes with just about everything you need except model clay. There is enough material for several rifles. It even has dye to match your stock. A little dye goes a long way!
1. Free float barrel. - This relieves stress from stock to barrel. Ref: Free float barrel (http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7159)
2. Prep Stock:
A. (Wood or Wood Laminate): You can “seal” the stock with Tru-Oil or other sealer, before bedding as I did, or you can seal what’s left after bedding to keep moisture from getting under the bedding, and into the wood. Bed stock under takedown screw hole. You may have to remove material or use a “thin alum” washer to make room for bedding material. This will keep the wood from compressing, creating "future stress" on the barrel.
B. Clean oil or other lubricants with Isopropyl Alcohol form stock inletting, and barrel channel.
C. Abrade stocks inletting if it has a slick coating, or is a fiberglass/plastic stock with course sandpaper. If you have a plastic stock with not much fiberglass, such as Butler Creek stocks, drill several small drill starts to provide mechanical locks for the bedding to bond into. When finished wipe or blow off dust.
D. Apply tape to top of stock along receiver, and barrel channel to catch squeeze out.
3. Prep Metal Parts:
A. With receiver/barrel/trigger group assembled, Plug all possible mechanical locks with model clay. Spend some time on this or you may not get your rifle apart. Don’t forget receiver, and trigger group pins. Double, and triple check. (For a fluted barrel I applied model clay to flutes about 4 inches out.)
B. Add at least 1/8" to 1/4" model clay in front of V block, and V block screws or you may not get your stock off!
C. Apply at least 2 coats of release agent to all metal parts. Apply in adjacent areas to bedding to allow for squeeze out possibly getting into areas not bedded. Let each coat dry according to bedding instructions.
4. Bedding:
A. Bed the barrel 2" to 3". (See Photo 1) This supports heavy Bull steel barrel, and relieves stress exerted on the thin alum receiver. (You can skip bedding the barrel if you have a Standard Barrel, or Carbon fiber barrel). Also bed stock around take down, this will also form a recoil lug (Photo 1). Be careful not to get any in the screw hole. (Easer said than done).
B. Bed the Notch formed by trigger group, and rear of receiver. (Photo 2, 3)
C. There is 3 schools of thought on bedding the recoil lugs. (1) Bed the bottom 1/2 of the lugs, as when you pull your barrel up as I did, it will need room to swing fwd (Photo 4) (2) Use the notch in the receiver just aft of the take down screw as a recoil lug. (Photo 1). (3) Do like TheGermanGuy did; cut a notch in the V block to create a fwd/aft recoil lug. Ref:
http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/index.p...t=0&#entry21252
All 3 methods will work. You don't need all three, just pick one that grabs you.
D. Assemble rifle carefully. Just snug down take down, not real tight.
E. Clean up squeeze-out. Don’t forget inside of mag well!
A few reminders: (1.) Don't forget to block all possible mechanical locks with model clay. (2.) Don’t forget 2 coats of release agent on receiver-trigger group-barrel, and takedown screw. (3.) Remove barrel/Receiver after 4 hours or over night. Finish clean up of excess. Let Hard cure for 3 days before shooting.
Next step is to tune the barrel harmonics with a pressure pad or tuner. This is another chapter, already in print within these archives soon to be in the Tips & Tricks. Good luck! You will need this and a lot more to beat the Cajun in the Shooting Contest! Bawhaaaaaa :D