MADMAX
10-04-2003, 15:07
For those who may be interested in the Muzzielite Bullpup 10-22 stock I have some changes which will make the weapon better.
The 10-22 receiver & barrel are secured into anchor points in the stock. The points are at the rear of the receiver and the point at the stock screw. The problem is the rifle is not held in place too well. First of all the support points are molded fiber plastic and will bend some. So what I did was re-enforce these support points. I used Devcon plastic steel (an epoxy) and molded the rifle into these support points by bedding the rifle into the epoxy. Use the same methods to protect your rifle from the epoxy, as you would do in bedding a regular Ruger stock. I.e. blocking all possible mechanical locks, with model clay, and applying release agent to all metal parts.
What you need to do is “bed ”the rifle on the left side of the stock first. I used a type of plastic foam to build a form (dam) so the epoxy would not run all over the place. Pour the epoxy into the form and into the rear support and then set the rifle down into the epoxy. You don't need a form for the rear point. Just put some epoxy onto the support. Then lay a sheet of saran wrap over the rear and the front support point (where you have the epoxy) and then install the right half of the stock and bolt into place. You need to re-assemble both sides and bolt together to make sure the 10-22 is secured in proper place and aligned correctly while the epoxy dries. The saran wrap keeps the two halves from gluing together. Lay the weapon aside with the epoxy side (left side) down and let it cure.
Once the epoxy has cured take the two sides apart but leave the weapon in the left side. Now you need to build the form on the right side of the stock. Once this fits the rifle receiver/barrel you can pour the epoxy into the rear support and the front support. Take the rifle/left stock and fit it into place (use saran wrap between the two points) and bolt it together. Let it dry.
Now you have a strong support on both sides of the stock. I used a Dremel tool to clean up the epoxy.
The next job is to work on the trigger slide. The 10-22 needs some slack in the Muzzielite trigger slide so the rifle will re-cock. The trigger slide must be trimmed so it will move forward (toward the barrel end) more than as it comes from the factory. First you need to trim away a portion of the right and left stock on the inside of the trigger guard. Next you need to trim off some of the trigger itself toward the barrel. If you don’t do this the 10-22 will not re-cock!
The trigger guide has a pin, which goes through the trigger of the 10-22. This pin is what pushes on the 10-22 trigger when you pull the muzzielite trigger. I found that the over travel adjustment stop screw on my trigger could be adjusted to control "take-up" on the Mussielite trigger. Simply screw it out toward the barrel and use some thread lock to hold it in place once you have it adjusted for your desired trigger pull. The pin will rest against the over travel screw and you can adjust the trigger so the over travel is little or none. If you don't have this screw then of course you can't do this.
One other thing about the trigger; I did a trigger job so there is about 3 pounds of trigger pull. You will find the trigger on the Muzzielite will be very hard with the standard 10-13 pound trigger pull on the 10-22. I recommend a trigger job for this setup.
The other modification ...I removed the front sight and replaced it with a laser sight. Some work to do it but works great. The sights, which come on the stock, are worthless. Go to Wal-Mart and buy a cheap scope. As to the scope, I removed the plastic rear sight on the carrying handle and this allowed me to move the scope to the rear some. This way I have a great sight picture when I bring the weapon up to fire.
These are some of the things I did and I now have a very fine shooting Bullpup. Maybe won't drive tacks but you will be surprised how good it shoots. I would recommend using the Ruger standard 10rd clips. I use the mag clips to attach two magazines together, makes 20 shots. I also can use the 25 shot magazines but if you use them you will need to cut an opening in the pistol grip handle so the mag will fit into the rifle. Best to use the 10rd clips in my opinion.
Now if I can attach some photos of the work I did ...here goes.
The 10-22 receiver & barrel are secured into anchor points in the stock. The points are at the rear of the receiver and the point at the stock screw. The problem is the rifle is not held in place too well. First of all the support points are molded fiber plastic and will bend some. So what I did was re-enforce these support points. I used Devcon plastic steel (an epoxy) and molded the rifle into these support points by bedding the rifle into the epoxy. Use the same methods to protect your rifle from the epoxy, as you would do in bedding a regular Ruger stock. I.e. blocking all possible mechanical locks, with model clay, and applying release agent to all metal parts.
What you need to do is “bed ”the rifle on the left side of the stock first. I used a type of plastic foam to build a form (dam) so the epoxy would not run all over the place. Pour the epoxy into the form and into the rear support and then set the rifle down into the epoxy. You don't need a form for the rear point. Just put some epoxy onto the support. Then lay a sheet of saran wrap over the rear and the front support point (where you have the epoxy) and then install the right half of the stock and bolt into place. You need to re-assemble both sides and bolt together to make sure the 10-22 is secured in proper place and aligned correctly while the epoxy dries. The saran wrap keeps the two halves from gluing together. Lay the weapon aside with the epoxy side (left side) down and let it cure.
Once the epoxy has cured take the two sides apart but leave the weapon in the left side. Now you need to build the form on the right side of the stock. Once this fits the rifle receiver/barrel you can pour the epoxy into the rear support and the front support. Take the rifle/left stock and fit it into place (use saran wrap between the two points) and bolt it together. Let it dry.
Now you have a strong support on both sides of the stock. I used a Dremel tool to clean up the epoxy.
The next job is to work on the trigger slide. The 10-22 needs some slack in the Muzzielite trigger slide so the rifle will re-cock. The trigger slide must be trimmed so it will move forward (toward the barrel end) more than as it comes from the factory. First you need to trim away a portion of the right and left stock on the inside of the trigger guard. Next you need to trim off some of the trigger itself toward the barrel. If you don’t do this the 10-22 will not re-cock!
The trigger guide has a pin, which goes through the trigger of the 10-22. This pin is what pushes on the 10-22 trigger when you pull the muzzielite trigger. I found that the over travel adjustment stop screw on my trigger could be adjusted to control "take-up" on the Mussielite trigger. Simply screw it out toward the barrel and use some thread lock to hold it in place once you have it adjusted for your desired trigger pull. The pin will rest against the over travel screw and you can adjust the trigger so the over travel is little or none. If you don't have this screw then of course you can't do this.
One other thing about the trigger; I did a trigger job so there is about 3 pounds of trigger pull. You will find the trigger on the Muzzielite will be very hard with the standard 10-13 pound trigger pull on the 10-22. I recommend a trigger job for this setup.
The other modification ...I removed the front sight and replaced it with a laser sight. Some work to do it but works great. The sights, which come on the stock, are worthless. Go to Wal-Mart and buy a cheap scope. As to the scope, I removed the plastic rear sight on the carrying handle and this allowed me to move the scope to the rear some. This way I have a great sight picture when I bring the weapon up to fire.
These are some of the things I did and I now have a very fine shooting Bullpup. Maybe won't drive tacks but you will be surprised how good it shoots. I would recommend using the Ruger standard 10rd clips. I use the mag clips to attach two magazines together, makes 20 shots. I also can use the 25 shot magazines but if you use them you will need to cut an opening in the pistol grip handle so the mag will fit into the rifle. Best to use the 10rd clips in my opinion.
Now if I can attach some photos of the work I did ...here goes.