10/22 Trigger Jobs

[Carnifex]

I keep hearing allot about trigger jobs and stuff on the 10/22. I thought I'd make a topic for you all on how to get a nice feeling trigger. It’s not as nice as a Kidd Trigger but it is about 1/20 the price.

1. Buy the Volquartsen Target Hammer. When you install it use the shims to get a tighter fit of the hammer to the housing. Do not use the hammer spring that comes with it or the trigger return spring.

2. Replace the trigger return spring with the spring from a Clickster 7mm Mechanical Pencil. Only cost like 98 cents but really lightens the pull and still provides enough force to reset the trigger. When replacing the spring, first put the trigger plunger in backwards so the little pointy part is facing the trigger. Then place the spring over that so that it holds the spring and the spring is resting directly on the trigger. This way you have no binding of the plunger on the trigger.

3. I then proceeded to lightly polish all the engagement surfaces between the hammer, sear and disconnector for a smoother feel.

4. By now you should have a pretty light trigger. The next step is going to get rid of that annoying pre-travel. Ok, go to Wal-Mart, hardware store or whatever and pickup some JB Weld. Mix up a very small amount and apply it to the top of the sear where it touches the disconnector. You want to get a nice perfect fit of the two together so you can use a release agent like comes with the Accraglass kit or you can use PAM cooking spray. This should be applied to the disconnector before the sear with the JB weld is put together. This should give you a perfect joining of the two and will get rid of your pre-travel. If you find the trigger won’t reset a small amount of filing can be done to the JB Weld to get it to work properly. Scroll down to my next post to see pictures of where to apply the JB and how much.

5. For the over travel “fix” you can either drill & tap a hole in your trigger or buy the Volquartsen Target Trigger. This is what I did as it came with an over travel screw and it also is a straight trigger for a straighter pull.

6. Before inserting a live round do give the trigger a safety check as described below.

[cajungeo]

Pre-Travel Mod

Assemble the Sear, Disconnector, and Spring, on the outside of the Trigger as shown. Remember the JB Weld goes on the Sear, and the release agent on the Disconnector.

BTW I put a little too much JB, but it was easy to remove using a knife blade. I also could have filed it down some, but I was at the range, and needed it working.

A couple of tips: Polish the "ball" end of the hammer strut pin, make shure the strut pin retainer clip is installed with the "open end up", do not lube mating parts for 500 rnds. This will let them seat against each other, and ensure the smoothest trigger pull.

[Carnifex]

Ok, here are some pics I took of the JB weld and such. Cajun, your picture makes it look like you have alot of the JB in the middle of the sear, between the spring and where it touches the disconector. Maybe that is causing the disconector from moving all the way or somthing. I'm not really shure. Not very much JB is needed. When I first did it i put way too much on and had to redo it. Heres a picture of the where and how much i put on the sear.

[Carnifex]

Heres a picture like cajuns of the sear engaging the disconector.

[TheGermanGuy]

Those are some great pics guys! I feel kinda encouraged to do that now. Thank you!!!

TheGermanGuy :sniper:

[gundoc]

For a little bit of time invested, why not drill and tap and install a quality set screw? With some blue loctite it will be adjustable whenever it begins to wear down.

[Carnifex]

Gundoc - I thought about using a set screw. It would require such a small setscrew not sticking up out of the sear very far. I looked at it and thought about it, and just decided to use the JB weld. It seamed much easier. I dont think it will wear down anytime soon. There isnt much rubbing on it to cause wearing.

Cajun - Did you re-apply the JB weld yet? Did it work this time not having such a large glob in the middle?

I'v been way to busy lately to have time to tweak the 10/22 or even shoot. I got golf practice everyday, my team is going to state championships, so my weekend is spent prepairing for that. Hopefully in a few weeks I will have more time for everything. My next project is a tuner for the forarm of the stock on the barrel, and also one for the end of the barrel like a Hoehen. Good shooting everyone -Carnifex :beer:

[cajungeo]

Safety Check

After working on the trigger you should Always give your gun a Safety Check.
1) With magazine out, chamber clear, trigger cocked, and Safety on. With muzzle pointed upward, bump butt (the rifles butt dummy <_< ) on the floor several times.
2) Next pull action rearward, and let it slam home several times.
3) With safety still on squeeze trigger firmly.

If the hammer falls it has bounced off the sear, and your rifle is death waiting to happen. If you cannot fix it or take it to a smith. If your safety check failed do not load ammo!

If your trigger job has passed the initial safety check, then you are ready for a range check. Things to look for: full auto firing, slam fire's, rifle going off without touching or after only slightly touching your trigger, and trigger not reseting. If any of these conditions exist. Your rifle is unsafe. Immediately clear your rifle, leave the firing line to a designated safe to work area.

If your trigger job has passed the range test go thru the above initial safety check again. If it passes then you have a safe rifle, and have done a good job. ;)

One final thing Gun Contol is Muzzle Control, and There is no such thing as an unloaded gun!

[cajungeo]

Here is a very good link to eliminate after-travel. Complete with pics. Check out:
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/trigger-travel.html