S&W K-22 Masterpiece

[archie]

I have the opportunity to buy a K-22 Masterpiece in 99% condition for $350. Never having bought a used revolver before, is there anything that I should look for? Are their any peculiarities that I should look for that this gun develops with age?

Thanks,
Arch

[Old Judge Creek]

Yeah, but most of them are moot when you're talking about a K-22 Masterpiece. To begin with, you're dealing with 22 Rimfire not some super hot Thumpen-Boomen-Cruncher that someone has used to experiment with excessive overloads.

Look at the screws on the sideplates, the bore, and at the finish. If the screw heads are buggered, someone who is NOT an expert has porbably been tinkering with the internals - but maybe not. If bore is shiny - cool. Otherwise it's probably just dirty. Clean it and look again. I've never seen one pitted but it could happen. Then check to see that the cylinder locks up tight when the hammer is cocked.

If the gun looks like it's been care for it's probably a good buy. It's really difficult to wear one of these guys out.

One Caveat: this gun is blued. Unless things have recently changed, the current S&W ownership does NOT support or work on blued S&Ws made by previous S&W owners. They refused to work on any of my 3 older S&Ws (tune ups on a Model 38 and a Model 66 (stainless) and a rebarrel on a Model 29). Don't take my word for it - call them and ask.

[punchie]

Are you sure it is a K-22 (pre 1958) or is it a Mod 17? Look inside the yoke on the frame. If it says mod 17-(X) it is post 1958 and IMHO not worth quite as much as a K-22. Also bbl length, tt, th etc will weigh in its value.

The main thing that I would be leary of would be a bent yoke. This is usually caused by someone 'snapping' the cylinder shut rather than closing it by hand. If it is a K-22, look at the front of the frame with the cylinder shut, the seam between the yoke and the frame should be at (the least) even and hopefully almost smooth.

Hope this helps some.