1600 Gr Adjustable Harmonizer

[tgs]

Set up as I shot the 100 Yd. Felt a lot more comfortable with the stock where it needs to be and with the aditional length which is a Choate that adds 1" to the LOP.
Cajungeo.....a 1" dot at 100 yds dont cut it guy. Im using a 2x EER Leopold and can barely get a look at it.

[tgs]

But its still a good time.
Ive a little more work to do on it but for now I think its getting better.

[cajungeo]

If we make a larger 10 ring, then every one will get a perfect score. The 2x is very low power, but still a scope. Next month we may use this target, still a 1" 10 ring, but a 3" black 8 ring. You shot a 48, thats very good. http://www.protargets.com/targets/one-inch...ch-center-3.gif (http://www.protargets.com/targets/one-inch-center-3.gif)

Nice mini very unique stock. Looks good. ;)

[tgs]

So far the best group is .962 for 5 shots and the worst case is 1.18" at a 100yds. I hope to be able to consistantly shoot under 1.00" as I adjust the harmonizer. I have found on my .220 Swift with a harmonizer weighing 600 grs I can impact the group size as much as 1" by moving it as little as 2" for or aft on a heavy barrel. I hope to be able to keep it under 1.00" with this one on my mini. Ive done about as much to it as I can Trigger is now down to 3.5-3.7lbs, bedding is done. The F/G has help and really had the biggest effect on the point of impact almost 4" difference with and without (lower with it on).
I really feel the scope mount on the barrel plays into group size also. Get it off the receiver and you can take it to the bank. I did some modifications to the stock and added the adjustable comb and it provides for a nice cheek weld and helps with the taller scope mount and rings.
I wont be able to shoot this week but hope to this coming weekend. I think the heavier harmonic balancer is going to be the answer. I be posting the results.

[tgs]

I think this one is close to done. I think Ill do some checkering and shape the forearm a little

[tgs]

Ill get itout this coming weekend and see what happens.

[Pdaddy]

Nice thingy "tgs"
I read the post about one of them moveble weights. It would be cool if you could put a sort of tube onto that, so it looks better (so it looks like a mega fat bull barrel) :D , that wouldent be a problem haaa ??
What diam did you have in the hole, and is it seated with some screws ??.. The barrel is abit cone formed, so i bet itäs not a super tight fit.

Hope the thing works better with the added weight.. Goood luck ;)

Marcus

[Carnifex]

Nice work TGS. Wana make me a couple of those? :P The harmonizer on my 10/22 right now consists of a lead fishing sinker and some ducktape. Not exactly as nice as yours turned out hehe. I like the adjustable comb too. I have more of a chin weld right now which dosent help with accuracy. Keep up the good work. -Carnifex

[tgs]

thanks guys.
There is a step in the barrel dia. .it jumps from .565 to .575 so I made the bore about .577 and used an 8-40 nylock set screw to keep it where I want it. dont want to make it any longer as I think the trick is just finding the right spot along the barrel. We'll see. Im hoping it can replace the F/G. Maybe I can get out during the week and see what happens

[ralrein1]

I must be brain dead today.....Please remind what does F/G stand for?Thanks. :blink: :D

[cajungeo]

tg what have you got there a mini factory? You just keep cranking out the ideas. I'm curious how the harmonizer will affect POI as the barrel heats up, say after firing 10-15 rnds? Maybe a a cold, and a hot setting? With your initial test it looks like it works! :D

BTW I merged your threads, as we are limited to 1 each in the gallery.

[EdinKali]

Hmm, that may be exactly what I am looking for to sqeeze that last bit of accuracy out of my mini-30. I am stuck at the same spot as cajungeo(1.1" groups). My latest attempt at improving accuracy by creating a more efficient muzzle brake on my lathe out of 6061 T6 aluminum hasn't improved my groups at all. In fact the groups have gotten slightly larger despite the brake being much more efficient than the John Masen type that I had on there. I should be able to whip up one of those harmonizers on my lathe without too much trouble(the muzzle brake was much more complicated).

Too bad the mini's don't shoot as nice as my 03 Springfield. This past weekend I was consistently shooting 5 shots into a ragged hole @50yds through iron sights.
No mods done to that rifle although I was shooting handloads. My buddy was kicking himself for selling his 03 as he spotted for me. :D

Nice job on the adjustable comb by the way. Did you use a band saw to cut that out?

[tgs]

sorry guys ive been laggin. Trying to find that fine line between honey dews and the real important stuff.
It finally stopped raining long enough to begin working with the barrel weight. I think Im on the right track and can say so far I like everything I am seeing.
My first shot was after I put the scope and mount back on and it hit a little low. I was using UMC junk. Made 4 clicks for elevation then shot #2. I slide the weight back 1" and fired the third. I then moved it back again and had shot up my UMC ammo and had to my dismay 3 rounds of 52gr match hpbt left (I sort of underplanned the day). Shots 4,5 and 6 were as good as it gets. I need for this to happen about 5 groups of 5 with a lot more testing for location. I could really feel a difference in muzzle flip and am rigging something to measure it.
Ill do the rest of my testing with the match ammo as I have always had excellent results with it in my AR's. I still havent tried any reloads in .223 yet but I'll get to it soon (right!).
Kali I imagine making the muzzle brake was a pain. Did you slot it? As far as knocking this thing out on a lathe theres nothing to it if your a lathe user. The stock I cut out on my scroll saw and believe me it got a little tense. Its not the tool of choice for cutting a stock but I got lucky and stayed on the line and the blade didnt break.
Ive got 3 more stocks ive got some ideas Im going to try. Im thinking about skeltonizing one and adding an adjustable comb and recoil pad.
Still havent bedded this one and it fits so tight in the stock right now that I am thinking about not until I run out of ideas.
Kali did you weighthe 6061 M/B? I really think it is too light. Try something heavier like stainless or even some leaded bronze if you can get your hands on it. (Well nowadays maybe unleaded bronze) but aluminum wont be enough weight unless you want to add something you can adjust on the barrel with it.

[tgs]

rein1,
F/G was an abreviation for flash guard , sorry.
Im really thinking mini 14's can shoot 1" and under consistantly with just a little work. The barrel weights will be a must and I will be adding a component to the one above so I can increase and decrease the weight in small increments.
Cajun I definitely want to get into the effects of barrel warming. As of now the time between rounds is only moments but the groups are always small, 5 max is what I like to work with as it eliminate the extra variable for now. One thing I can swear to is that Tetra really helps keeps a bore cooler (within reason). If anyone has tried it what did you think? I started using it when I shot a lot of M14 then again with the AR's and wouldnt use anything else in my Mini bores. (they should send me a years supply for free ;) )

this little one still has milk on his lips.

[Pdaddy]

"Tgs" youre doing some nice work there B)

Now when you testfire and moving youre weight, i just thought of something (you probebly alredy know this)
You said that you changed Ammo in the middle of the test (or more like runed out of) If im not wrong a barrel weight like that does just find a sweet spot for one kind of load, then you'll have to adjust it for another !!! right ??
So you'll better stick to one brand/bullet first and make notes where to place the weight on that one, and then move on to the next load. :blink:

Dont hate me for this, as i said you'll sertenly know this... Youre over professor here :D .

You said something of "Tetra" keeping youre barrel colder.. hey whats Tetra..


The nutty professor
Marcus

[EdinKali]

Kali I imagine making the muzzle brake was a pain. Did you slot it? As far as knocking this thing out on a lathe theres nothing to it if your a lathe user.


Yeah, the muzzle brake took a fair amount of time. I didn't slot it. I removed the front sight completely and drilled a hole in the brake for the roll pin that is used to hold the sight on. Worked out really nice.


Kali did you weighthe 6061 M/B? I really think it is too light. Try something heavier like stainless or even some leaded bronze if you can get your hands on it. (Well nowadays maybe unleaded bronze) but aluminum wont be enough weight unless you want to add something you can adjust on the barrel with it.


I had a fairly long M/B at first so it had some weight to it (1 1/4" round stock and about 4 1/2" long) but I shortened it up quite a bit after doing some additional research on brake design. The brake is effective but my groups were a bit tighter with the other setup (Masen brake) but I haven't tried adjusting my loads yet for the new configuration. Next time I am at the metal supply house I will pick up a hunk of brass stock and whip up a harmonizer and give that a whirl.

[lendell]

Hey man, where'd you get the dovetail mount forend?

[BlenderWizard]

what did you use to cut your stock? Haow did you make it where the new cheek piece is adjustable?

[BlenderWizard]

Does anyone know exactly how this work was done to this stock?

[redbeard]

He cut it with a scroll saw and you buy the cheek piece hardware form Brownell's :usa: