Originally Posted by Rowdy Rawhide
Thanks for the welcome, I was unaware that the billets were not as strong as the forged lowers. I assumed that was part of the increase in price, as well as the machining. Do they reenforce the billets in the "weak" areas, they seem like they look a little bigger overall, and I was just wondering if they had more "metal" to help strengthen them. I guess while I'm asking are the billets heavier than forged lowers??
This rifle is going to be a deer/hog/coyote rifle, so it is going to get some "real world" use and not just goin to be a safe queen. So your points you bring up are of some concern to me. This rifle is going to need to be strong enough to handle this type of use.
Here is the rest of the build I have going in my mind:
RRA 2 stage trigger
Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock
Magpul MIAD or Hogue grip
KNS anti-roll pins
YHM spectre length customizable HG
Badger GenII Tac Latch
Still Looking at barrels and Comps
trying to find the best CH for the money (seen some pretty cheap feeling ones/ not spending $80 though)
prob going with Redfield Revolution 2-7 or 3-9 accuplex?? reticle
PS any and all ideas and advice are welcome on the rest of the build also.
The billet lower will
be strong, just not as strong as a forged lower. Again, this is due to the manufacturing process (billet vs. forged)
Honestly, I don't think you'll have a problem with a 7075 aluminum billet lower (or upper). Again, a billet lower will most likely outlast all of us on the PU.
Yes, billet lowers usually come with reinforced (i.e. thicker) areas on the receiver. That's why they're slightly bulkier. In fact, Tactical Innovations advertises their billet lower as having "REINFORCED CRITICAL STRENGTH AREAS".
And, yes, billet lowers do weigh a tad more...maybe an ounce or so. But, to me, that's sort of negligible, especially if you're going to add a bunch of "goodies" on the rail system anyway.
Yes, for some of my rifles, I'm concerned with weight. But, for others they're serving a different role/purpose. And, weight is not necessarily the driving factor.
Again, I think billet lowers just look "tuff". And, I too have considered using a billet lower before. So, trust me; I understand their lure and charm.
However, they're definitely more expensive than their forged counterparts. That said, I would never be one to tell someone not to buy something simply because it costs more.
If you're on a budget, you might want to consider going with a forged lower receiver, and put the money you save into a good barrel and fire control group. Frankly, the "pros" (i.e. accuracy) you'll get from these two upgraded components will be well worth it. In fact, IMHO, these are probably the best two upgraded components you can buy for an AR-15. (BTW, I would also add in a "free-float" handguard too.)
If your budget is sort of "open", then I say, "Get what you want." The billet lower will be just fine.
As far as your component list goes, I say everything looks great.
You'll love the RRA two-stage match trigger. In fact, if you're handy with a Dremel tool, you can polish it a bit with a rubber compound wheel, and then with some Flitz Metal Polish on a cloth wheel, and you'll be amazed at how clean it will break. For the money, these triggers are fantastic!
The MagPul CTR stock is great too. I've used it on a buddy's AR-15 before, and I love how it locks-up good and tight. In fact, I have one in my gun case for a future "AR project".
As far as the grip goes, if you have large mitts (like I do), the Hogue grip might be a tad small for you. Hence, the MagPul MIAD would be a better choice, since you can "fit" it to your hand.
KNS anti-rotational pins are good for "peace of mind", and they compliment the aesthetics of the rifle.
I'm going to suggest getting a MapPul Enhanced Triggerguard. I prefer the aluminum one, but I've used the polymer one too...they're just fine. And, they come in different colors, in addition to black.
YHM products are very solid from what other PU members have stated. And, all the YHM products I've seen are good. In fact, I just shot an AR with a YHM free-float handguard this past weekend. And, I have to say...I totally dig the diamond cut-outs. Good looking AND functional products!
As far as flash hiders, my first recommendation is the SEI Vortex flash hider (virtually NO flash). I also believe YHM makes a flash hider for the 6.8 round. Either one will be good.
Yeah, the cheapo carry handles will work. We used one on my father's AR-15 carbine...not bad. For my AR, I went with the DPMS carry handle.
Aside from that, the rest of your components list looks good.
Let us know if you have more questions, or need advice.