After resisting the AR bandwagon for more than a decade, I have finally decided to climb aboard. It all started with a DPMS LR-308T. Modifying that rifle to suit my needs (and wants...) has made me decide to build a 5.56 AR.
So far, I have purchased a Del-Ton Dissipator Barrel "kit" (FSB, Triangular HG cap, & barrel nut). This is a "true Dissipator," i.e., rifle-length gas system, not a carbine- or mid-length setup with a low-profile gas block.
My vision for this rifle includes an A2 buttstock, A2 handguard, and a "National Match" free-float tube. I will be mounting a Harris #5 bipod adapter (in A2 handguard) for sling use and occasional bipod use. Looking to build a "sleeper" rifle, I guess.
Common sense tells me that a short, heavy barrel will be stiffer than something longer and/or lighter. But that same common sense tells me a bipod and/or slinging up tight will affect POI if the barrel is not free-floated.
My question for y'all is this: on a 16" HBAR, how much of a difference is a free-float kit going to make, as far as accuracy is concerned? Anyone have any before-and-after groups showing the difference between "traditional" handguard mounting and free-floating? Even groups shot with an aftermarket FF tube/rail/whatever would give me some idea.
So far, I have purchased a Del-Ton Dissipator Barrel "kit" (FSB, Triangular HG cap, & barrel nut). This is a "true Dissipator," i.e., rifle-length gas system, not a carbine- or mid-length setup with a low-profile gas block.
My vision for this rifle includes an A2 buttstock, A2 handguard, and a "National Match" free-float tube. I will be mounting a Harris #5 bipod adapter (in A2 handguard) for sling use and occasional bipod use. Looking to build a "sleeper" rifle, I guess.
Common sense tells me that a short, heavy barrel will be stiffer than something longer and/or lighter. But that same common sense tells me a bipod and/or slinging up tight will affect POI if the barrel is not free-floated.
My question for y'all is this: on a 16" HBAR, how much of a difference is a free-float kit going to make, as far as accuracy is concerned? Anyone have any before-and-after groups showing the difference between "traditional" handguard mounting and free-floating? Even groups shot with an aftermarket FF tube/rail/whatever would give me some idea.