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Old 09-25-2006, 10:25   #1
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1911 trigger job for dummies

A buddy from another board guided me thru this and it worked out great. Just want to share.

1. Strip the frame completely

2. Polish the trigger bow with #400 + # 600 sandpaper until it`s slick as a mirror. ( I also used my Dremel with a felt tip and some jeweller`s rouge.)

3. Polish the trigger channel, sear, disconnector, hammer and pins. Do not mess around with the engagement angle of sear and hammer, as this might compromise the function.

4. Cut 2 coils off the mainspring, this will reduce the tension on the hammer and take some pull of the trigger. Do not cut more than 3 coils.

5. Bend the 3 prong leaf spring inwards, until it has a slight bow. This will reduce the pull on the sear and disconnect (1st and 2nd prong), the 3rd prong is for the grip safety (you might need to adjust this until it`s comfortable for you).

Note: If you don`t want to do this, you can keep the original spring and order a Cylinder&Slide pull reduction spring from Midwayusa (Item # 188 154 for mere $ 6.19)

You`ll notice that you won`t be able to install the bent spring with nothing but the mainspring housing removed, you gotta pull the thumb safety and the grip safety first, install the spring and re install the safeties.

This worked wonders on my SW1911 and reduced the trigger pull from 7lb to a sweet, crisp 2 1/2 lb pull with 1/16" pre travel and no over-travel at all (can be adjusted w. the small allen screw inside the trigger)

I`ve installed an STI trigger from Midway, but only because it looks cool ...basically this is a zero-budget trigger job.

Oh, yes...just to be on the safe side...if you test-fire your gun, load 2, then 3 rds at a time, just to be sure it won`t double-fire.
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Old 10-12-2006, 13:56   #2
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I might just have to try that on my Rock Island....... I bought it to play with... Why not, right?

Billy
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Old 10-12-2006, 19:31   #3
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Originally Posted by devildogmech
I might just have to try that on my Rock Island....... I bought it to play with... Why not, right?

Billy
Hey let me know how it works out for you.
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Old 12-03-2006, 09:18   #4
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Originally Posted by devildogmech
I might just have to try that on my Rock Island....... I bought it to play with... Why not, right?

Billy
I bought a R.A. also, and want to fix it up a little. It's
not to bad for the price I paid, but I'd like a different finnish,trigger,
and hammer. Let me know how it goes, Craig
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:44   #5
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I'm getting ready to drop $50 or so on a Beaver tail and a Cmdr hammer. You can get them direct from RIA.

http://www.advancedtactical.com/1911.htm

If you call, ask for Ivan. He is the Head Honcho, and is very helpfull.

I'm also going to get a skeletonized Trigger from them..... Might get em all at once.....

$ is tight... Need to buy x-mas presents for the kids... Dosent help I just had to take my 2yo to the ER this morning. We were at church this morning for a pancake social thing, and some kid bowled him over, and he subluxated his left elbow. We thought his wrist was bkn. Luckly the doc just manipulated his arm, and popped it back in. 5 minuets later, he was fine. $500 for 2 x-rays and the doc to fiddle with his arm . Oh well, at least he's ok.

Billy
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:52   #6
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Originally Posted by devildogmech
I'm getting ready to drop $50 or so on a Beaver tail and a Cmdr hammer. You can get them direct from RIA.

http://www.advancedtactical.com/1911.htm

If you call, ask for Ivan. He is the Head Honcho, and is very helpfull.

I'm also going to get a skeletonized Trigger from them..... Might get em all at once.....

$ is tight... Need to buy x-mas presents for the kids... Dosent help I just had to take my 2yo to the ER this morning. We were at church this morning for a pancake social thing, and some kid bowled him over, and he subluxated his left elbow. We thought his wrist was bkn. Luckly the doc just manipulated his arm, and popped it back in. 5 minuets later, he was fine. $500 for 2 x-rays and the doc to fiddle with his arm . Oh well, at least he's ok.

Billy

Wow, I hope your boy is ok. I'll check-out that link, sounds like its just what I need. Craig
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:59   #7
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Ya know... I hate linking to other forums.... its just bad form... BUT...

The Perfect Union is THE PLACE for 10-22 & Mini-14/30 stuff. But if you have a RIA 1911, you realy need to check out http://forums.1911forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=32 This is the forum for "other" 1911's but it has been pretty much been taken over by us RIA guys. Check it out.

BTW, Ivan the Head US guy for RIA/ARMSCOR goes by Blackdragon.

Sorry for the post to another forum....

PS, The munchkin is cool. Just need to be carefull of his elbow for a couple of months, to let the ligaments heal. What happend is commonly called "Nursemaids or Nuresery elbow" It usualy happens from pulling or dragging kids by the wrist... you pull the elbow too much, and bammo. He fell back on his hand, and poped it out. Luckly he didnt break anything... witch is much more common when kids fall like that.



Billy
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:16   #8
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I just did this to my Sprinfield Hi-Cap. It really took all the grittiness out of the trigger pull. It still a tiny bit of creep. but it breaks nice and clean. I only cut a coil and a half from my mainspring. This is a pistol for the real world and I don't want a really light pull in a "high energy" situation. For free, the price can't be beat! I am going shooting tomorrow, I will post results.
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:28   #9
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While no where close to my buddies Kimber he uses for competition (1100 dollar gun with 200 dollar trigger job) this thing shoots very nice! I shoot +P ammo and I think I need a heavier recoil spring as I got a few FTF which simply required a smack on the back of the slide to fully chamber the round. Should I get 18 or 20 #?
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Old 01-10-2008, 05:36   #10
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I finished this up last night. First time doing a detail strip of the 1911. Getting that sear and disconnecter back in place was a 10 minute challenge...tweezers and a flashlight helped me. The trigger feels a little lighter. I polished up the hammer and slide rail as well with a dremel I got for christmas. Fun project especially for a beginner such as myself.
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Old 01-11-2008, 15:20   #11
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:44   #12
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Originally Posted by collegeb View Post
I finished this up last night. First time doing a detail strip of the 1911. Getting that sear and disconnecter back in place was a 10 minute challenge...tweezers and a flashlight helped me. The trigger feels a little lighter. I polished up the hammer and slide rail as well with a dremel I got for christmas. Fun project especially for a beginner such as myself.
That firs ttime was a pain for me too! Finally got it figured out, pretty simple now.

This might be something worth trying out on my Springfield GI. I'm a big fan of DIY mods, and as far as working on a gun...this one doesn't seem like there's too much you could screw up.

I'm not entirely sure on which direction one is supposed to bend the leaf spring though...a picture of a bent one might be helpful...
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Old 03-15-2009, 16:23   #13
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Just tried this

Hey everyone,

Just tried this on my Kimber Pro Carry. I'm very much a newbie when it comes to detail stripping. This will be my second time doing it! I'm glad to report that it still works, and there's no hammer follow (I racked the slide hard a few times, but don't worry, I used Dummunition to stop it from hurting the sear). Not sure if there's any change in trigger pressure. I have to get a scale to check. It feels lighter, but I can't tell if that's just me hoping

It certainly feels smoother though. And if nothing else, it gave me a chance to reduce the tension on the grip safety.

Thanks,
Tobin
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Old 04-05-2009, 11:00   #14
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Originally Posted by rummerd
I shoot +P ammo and I think I need a heavier recoil spring as I got a few FTF which simply required a smack on the back of the slide to fully chamber the round. Should I get 18 or 20 #?
Why not adjust the extractor tension FIRST? MOST of the FTRB (what you described) are a function of a very dirty gun, OR (most likely) an over tight extractor. Look in Kuenhausen's "The Colt .45 Automatic" manual (you can get one from Amazon) for details.
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Old 02-15-2011, 20:33   #15
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Just did my ATI 1911...

What a great way to save some money. I followed your instructions and my trigger pull is at 3.5 lbs. For those with little experience working on 1911s, check out this write up: GunTech : 2- lb. Trigger Pull - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

There are some nice photos in that write up. Together, the two write ups should explain all you need to know.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:39   #16
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Thumbs up 1911 tips

These are all great guys, many thanks for posting the links. I like this one also.

YouTube - ‪1911 Re-Assembly Part1‬‏

Thanks for your time! These can be a large type help to many.

burgie
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:32   #17
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Originally Posted by Pat-inCO View Post
Why not adjust the extractor tension FIRST? MOST of the FTRB (what you described) are a function of a very dirty gun, OR (most likely) an over tight extractor. Look in Kuenhausen's "The Colt .45 Automatic" manual (you can get one from Amazon) for details.
I'd advise being very careful with bending the extractor, it's very easy to mess it up( same with polishing the sear and hammer area)........there is a test to see if your extractor is right.......imo, a tight extractor will not cause a FTRB( it would have to be grossly bent), as the recoil spring will push the claw right thru the soft brass rim( a notch on the rim is a sign of a tight extractor)......
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Old 06-13-2012, 18:13   #18
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Talking Trigger job for dummies

I just took a Brand New Para LTC and did this trick. I would say it took a 7-6 lb trigger and brought it down to 2.5-3 lbs. Its so much better and the trigger breaks like glass. Call me if you need help ask for Jack. 813-735-9097 saved so much money over the Bronells drop in kit.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:01   #19
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has anybody got some follow ups for this thread.
i am SO tempted to do this
but i am afraid of messing it up.
my SA1911GI sure could use a bit better trigger
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:07   #20
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i am going for that bushing.
and i am ashamed to say it
but never once have i completely stripped this gun down to the last screw.
i will probably do that today.
detail clean it and use some sort of dry lube in judicious amounts.
thanks again guys!
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Old 08-02-2014, 14:11   #21
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A little judicious polishing never hurt anything, but I'm not a fan of cutting springs. I know lots of people do it and it works for them, but a 1911 spring kit from Wolff is less than $10, and those springs are both high-quality and designed to work together. The latter point is important: the 1911 is easily worked on, which makes it easily screwed up by over-enthusiastic "improvements".
I'll second the suggestion of getting Kuhnhausen's book; it is worth 5x what you pay for it. When you understand the genius of JMB's design, you will understand why (for example) apparently mundane and unrelated things like extractor tension and magazine feed lip geometry work together.
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